Recipe for Survival: How did Harrisburg’s restaurants fare through two years of pandemic?

Illustration by Rich Hauck

Save the restaurants!

In the spring of 2020, such was the call around Harrisburg, as the fledgling pandemic looked like it might stick around awhile.

Spoiler alert—it did.

Two years and four surges later, I think we can begin to assess the damage, looking across the landscape as one might do following a devastating storm.

Most restaurants survived, but we lost a few good ones, too (I may forever be in mourning for Bricco’s Kennett Square mushroom pizza).

To discover the secret sauce of survival, I spoke with several Harrisburg restaurateurs to ask them one question—how were they able to make it through this unprecedented catastrophe? It seemed an appropriate query for this month, as May is our annual dining-focused issue.

Even in the best of times, restaurants are among the toughest businesses going—and these certainly were not the best of times. In fact, with apologies to Charles Dickens, they may well have been the worst of times.

At Yellow Bird Café, co-owner Stephanie Perry credited their survival, in part, to a well-placed window that allowed food to be passed from the kitchen to customers waiting outside on Sayford Street.

“We immediately transitioned to the window, and, fortunately, all of our food is takeout-friendly,” she said.

More importantly, though, the Harrisburg community stayed loyal, seeing the snug eatery through the toughest weeks and months. Yellow Bird sits smack-dab in the middle of the Midtown residential neighborhood, so regulars working from home often strolled up to the window to get breakfast, lunch or a snack.

“We already had a good customer base built, plus people really wanted to get out,” Perry said.

A strong customer base was vitally important in getting through the lean times, agreed Beth Taylor, director of operations at Cork & Fork. So was a loyal staff.

“Our team is super-dedicated and stayed with us throughout,” she said. “That alone allowed us to survive. Do you have a good culture to retain your team and can you keep them motivated through this really terrifying moment?”

Like other restaurateurs I spoke with, Taylor described Cork & Fork’s survival strategy as “multi-faceted.” They pivoted quickly, making greater use of their outside seating area and then, when the weather chilled, setting up heated, plastic tents along the sidewalk.

“We had to constantly think of ways to survive,” she said.

But that’s nothing new for the food industry, she added. Even in “normal” times, restaurants need to stay light on their feet, as they’re faced constantly with unforeseen complications and challenges—from staffing problems to supply snags to food costs to customer issues. This experience served them well when the ultimate crisis hit.

Still, the ever-changing pandemic and health instructions required Gumby-like flexibility.

“At first, it was like—just wear a mask, don’t touch this, and don’t do that, and Plexiglass will save you,” Taylor said. “Then it was like—actually, none of that will save you, and, oh, here are a bunch of new variants.”

Over at Deco Grab & Go, owner Callie Alvanitakis was in a unique position. She opened her downtown eatery in early 2021, after a couple of COVID surges had passed, with several more yet to arrive.

Therefore, she started with “pandemic volume in mind,” intent to stay lean and highly adaptable until better times.

“Someday, I’ll have an employee, but right now is not the time,” she said.

In some ways, Alvanitakis considers herself lucky. By beginning when she did, she was able to avoid the cruel rollercoaster ride faced by many other restaurants—shutting down, reopening, scaling up, scaling down, laying off staff, trying to hire them all back.

Still, she did have one unique challenge. Located across the street from the PA Capitol, her business relies greatly on the hunger pangs of state workers, who fled the city en masse and still haven’t returned to full complement.

But even here she’s optimistic. Before starting Deco, Alvanitakis worked at several other downtown spots, and some folks she once served now are discovering her new place.

“Volume is picking up,” she said. “I’m beginning to see some familiar faces again.”

So, then, what’s the bottom line? How did some Harrisburg restaurants survive the culinary cataclysm when others didn’t?

After interviewing these intrepid restaurateurs, I credit their survival to some combination of flexibility, community support, local ownership and sheer hard work and willpower.

So, the next time you’re happily ensconced in your favorite local haunt, I hope you’ll ponder this mini-miracle. Maybe you’ll look around and think to yourself—wow, how did this place survive—and then delight in the fact that it did. Recall what it was like, two years ago, when all seemed lost, when there appeared to be scant hope for the restaurants we love so much.

Compliment the owner, the staff. Savor your meal. Be patient. Tip extra.

Lawrance Binda is co-publisher/editor-in-chief of TheBurg.

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Behind the Seams: Harrisburg designers custom make many of the most unforgettable looks at local proms

Jaylene Crawley, Kevin Berry, Satin Monroe and Keya Wilson

Jaylene Crawley remembers getting her first American Girl doll at 8 years old as a gift from her mom. It was an expensive purchase for a mother of four kids, but she saved up, and the two squealed with joy when the doll arrived in the mail.

Crawley was into fashion even as a young girl and couldn’t wait to dress up her doll. But she knew that her family wouldn’t be able to afford extra outfits for it. Instead, she taught herself to sew, picking up tips from her aunt. For hours, Crawley would sew by hand in her room, crafting little dresses for her doll.

She recalls a time when she got caught sewing in class at school. Instead of punishing her, her teacher, Mrs. Cooper, held her after class to give her a sewing machine.

“That’s what jump-started everything,” Crawley said.

These days, she’s still making dresses for American girls, but this time they’re real-life ones. You might see a few of these young women showing off her work this month, as it is prom season.

Crawley is one of several Harrisburg designers working behind the scenes to make local students stand out in their gowns and tuxes for that special night of the year. Chances are, if you’ve seen the pictures of bright, flashy, extravagant prom attire, you were looking at the handiwork of one of these local fashion gurus.

 

Sew Sisters

Crawley designed her first prom dress for a client in 2007. For the first few years, she stuck to creating one dress a year for prom. But over the years, that number rose to as high as 21 for a single prom season.

Depending on the gown, it can take anywhere from a few hours to weeks to design and sew a dress. She described herself as a designer as “avant-garde,” which “means over-the-top in fashion,” she said. Crawley explained her work as wearable art. And there’s no better example than her money dress.

“I want to look like a million bucks…literally,” a former prom client of Crawley’s explained to her.

Fifty-five hours of work and many stacks of fake money later, and the student was walking into her high school prom covered in cash. It didn’t take long before the dress went viral online.

“Just to see the girls light up makes my day,” Crawley said.

During the sometimes stressful and taxing season of designing, Crawley is grateful for her support system—her “sew sisters.”

A handful of years ago, she met two other Harrisburg designers, Keya Wilson and Satin Monroe. They instantly clicked and, since then, have leaned on each other with encouragement, questions and, when needed, by lending an extra zipper.

“Everyone can succeed, thrive and still help each other,” Crawley said. “We don’t need competition. No one takes from the other. We all want to see each other do well.”

 

Tuxceded Expectations

While the “sew sisters” get the ladies ready for prom, Kevin Berry of Covered By Style and Grace is making sure all the guys look just as fly.

“When you dress good, you feel good,” Berry said.

While Berry always had a “passion for fashion,” as Kanye West, his fashion role model, said, it wasn’t until a few years ago, after a job loss, that he could finally make that passion a business.

His style has remained the same over the years. It’s sophisticated and elegant, but often with a unique touch. He remembers his own prom experience, when his dad took him to get his first custom suit in Philadelphia. It was inspired by, of course, Kanye. Berry would still wear that suit, if it fit, he said. It still hangs in his closet—off-white with a bright pop of coral pink.

Now, like his dad did for him, he makes other young men’s fashion aspirations come to life. He’s worked with clients from Bishop McDevitt, Harrisburg High School, Susquehanna Township, Milton Hershey and Lower Dauphin, among other schools.

He has also partnered with the “sew sisters” on prom pop-up shops, and it’s not uncommon for one of his clients to be headed to prom with one of Wilson’s clients. They’ve created a few matching prom looks.

While he hasn’t yet mastered tailoring, Berry designs all the suits and works with local Giovanni’s Tailor Shop.

“If it’s not something I would wear, it’s not something I would give you,” he said.

 

A Million Bucks

“I’m really picky,” admitted Makayla Tumer, who graduated from Susquehanna Township High School last year.

Prom was something that Tumer thought about since she was a little girl. Once she was in high school, she planned for the big night for over a year.

“I didn’t want a dress that looked like anyone else’s in my school or in the area,” she said. “I wanted to look different.”

When she approached Wilson, who owns Pieces of Me, a design business, Tumer was unsure if Wilson would be able to make her vision come to life. She envisioned a dress adorned with tiny mirror pieces and rhinestones. It wasn’t easy, but what’s Wilson if not the fairy godmother of prom dresses?

“It was the best dress of the prom,” Tumer said, without hesitation.

When you commission Wilson to make a dress, you don’t just get the dress, you get a whole experience. She’s constantly communicating with you during the design and fitting process and will often personally come to your house on prom night to make sure you’re ready to go.

“The best part is, when it’s complete, and you see them dressed up and they’re so happy,” she said. “It’s really rewarding.”

Like Crawley, Wilson is largely self-taught in sewing. What began as a way to make unique clothes for herself grew exponentially once people started asking for custom pieces from her.

Handling the volume of dresses that she works on each year is a challenge—she once sewed her fingers together—but it’s worth it.

“It can be stressful, but I never get tired of it,” she said.

 

Stitching Smiles

While “sew sister” Satin Monroe had training in fashion design, it wasn’t until after she gave birth to her daughter that she really got serious about it. She needed some extra income and decided to sit back down at her sewing machine.

“My daughter was my inspiration,” she said. “It made me fall back in love with being creative. Taking a chance on myself led me to where I am.”

Now, she designs a minimum of 20 gowns each prom season. She hopes, one day, to design a collection of gowns and to hire some staff members to help with the workload.

There are a lot of hours, thread and sequins that go into prom outfits that turn heads and make the newspapers. There’s also a lot of passion and heart for the clients that the designers are dressing.

While custom designs can be expensive, Berry works to make sure his tuxes and suits are still affordable.

“I want everybody to have the opportunity to dress well,” he said.

Wilson also caters to those who may not be able to afford a custom gown by designing and giving away a free dress to one student each year.

Diamond Thomas, who attended Central Dauphin East High School, was one of these recipients. After Wilson heard of Thomas’ struggle with chronic pain, she decided to give her a special prom experience.

Not only did she make her a custom dress, but she paid for her hair and makeup to be done and came to her house to help her get ready.

“She worked her magic,” Thomas said. “It was a rough year, so it was like a weight lifted off my shoulders. I will forever remember that experience.”

When Wilson and the other designers are stressed, working long nights to get all of their prom orders finished, these reactions keep them going. It’s about more than a gown or tux. It’s the business of making people feel good, making them happy.

“In the end, it’s the smile that keeps me going,” Crawley said.

Jaylene Crawley, Keya Wilson, Satin Monroe and Covered by Style and Grace by Kevin Berry all can be found on Facebook.  

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Heritage Heralded: May event to celebrate, support Harrisburg’s Asian American, Pacific Islander community

Ellen Min (front, center) and members of HAAPI

“The Atlanta shooting just wrecked me,” said Ellen Min.

As Min sat in the Green Street Little Amps, the March day seemed like any other. People greeted one another as they took their seats in the cozy neighborhood coffee shop. But for the Asian American and Pacific Islander (AAPI) community, it was anything but just another day.

It marked the one-year anniversary of the targeted killings of eight people, including six Asian women, in Atlanta.

Min unfortunately had become accustomed to hatred and violence being directed toward her, her mom and dad, grandparents, aunties and uncles. Growing up, she experienced eggs, bricks and tomatoes thrown at their house. There was name-calling and a fight at 10 years old because of her Korean appearance. And in the ‘90s, someone defaced her childhood home with a painting of a swastika and tagged it “gooks.”

“I’ve been told to go home more times than I can count,” said Min.

During the pandemic, walking with her daughter on Front Street, a group of men yelled that they were the coronavirus and should go home. Her 3-year-old waved back in greeting, misunderstanding and thinking they were saying, “Hi.”

Min described another distressing event.

“My husband and I were at the Farm Show Complex and we were drinking our milkshakes and were in a crowd of people, and somebody stuck their head between us and said go the f*** home, you chink,” she said.

The person disappeared in the crowd before Min’s husband could react.

Even with all of that and more, it was the Atlanta shooting that galvanized Min, who admittedly had bought into the myth of the model minority and, up until that point, had continually told herself, “it’s not that bad.”

“It was like the final culmination, like hatred runs so deep that somebody actually would kill us because of it,” Min said. “That stereotype could kill us.”

Immediately after the shootings, a friend, Tiffany Chang Lawson, called Min.

“I need help,” Min told her. “I need to grieve with someone.”

So, they gathered outside around a fire pit, sobbing about the lives lost, about how they saw their aunties and mothers in the faces of those who died.

That’s also when they realized that they needed a group where they could do this very thing—gather, connect and share. So, the Harrisburg Asian American Pacific Islander (HAAPI) group was formed.

Crawdaddy’s Restaurant and Bayou Bar graciously offered HAAPI a place to meet, even though the restaurant wasn’t actually open. And people came.

One of those people was Joe Lee. At HAAPI’s one-year anniversary celebration with music, drinks and lots of conversation, he said that the group offers “unspoken, implicit understanding of a shared experience.”

 

Bright Light

Two group members with that shared experience are Virginia Lucy and Amy Zecha, both biracial and navigating two worlds, often feeling like neither racial group welcomes them fully. Because of this, Lucy was anxious about trying out the group.

“It was so much better than I thought it would be—a bright light among so many dark moments,” she said.

Zecha, whose Asian American mother had passed away, craved the connection with other Asian Americans. Lucy described being not Asian enough for Asians and not white enough for whites. But she realized, she said, that, “I’m never going to be Asian enough for everybody. I’m never going to be white enough for everybody, just my best version of myself.”

That evening was the first HAAPI event for Sarah Herr. Joining her Caucasian family through adoption, Herr described feeling a sense of loss. She said that she’s never had an Asian friend or been around those of Asian heritage.

“I’m having a midlife crisis at 23,” she said.

The vivacious young woman also described being harassed for her Asian heritage. Once at the doctor’s office, someone told her “go back to your country for bringing corona over,” she said. She described that and incidents of people trying to “jump her” on State Street in Harrisburg and in Washington, D.C.

“It’s a lot,” she said.

The harassment, along with the shootings and assaults of other Asians, made her anxious and at times afraid to go out.

“It’s times like that, that I wished I had an Asian community of friends that could understand,” Herr said.

That defines HAAPI, a community whose motto is, “Stories not Status.” From the beginning, the rule was not asking people what they did for a living. That provided automatic leveling, making the statement that this isn’t a networking group—it’s a group committed to being there for one another and celebrating their heritage.

HAAPI will celebrate Asian Pacific American Heritage Month with the entire Harrisburg community this month during 3rd in the Burg, over the weekend of May 20 and 21. The event will kick off at the Broad Street Market, with happenings at the Midtown Scholar and Midtown Cinema, emphasizing AAPI contributions, stories and culture. Min hopes that this event can help break down walls and bring understanding of people as individuals rather than as a dehumanizing monolith.

“I love the idea of the celebratory, because you bring together people with food and festivities, but the deeper reason is because…when you understand and get to know culture so deeply, your stereotypes, your prejudice, the discrimination melt away because there’s a humanization and dignifying of the communities,” Min said.

At Crawdaddy’s, the group settled in with drinks and comfortable banter. The feeling of relaxed familiarity permeated the scene.

“This is definitely a community in central PA that we didn’t have,” Lee said.

 

The Harrisburg Asian Pacific American Heritage Month celebration takes place May 20 and 21. To learn more about HAAPI and the event, visit Instagram @AAPIHBG or contact HAAPI at [email protected]

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“Here’s the Keys”: Jeannetta Politis takes the reins of Joshua Group, continuing the group’s pro-education, anti-poverty mission

Jeannetta Politis

Joshua Group may have a new leader, but its mission remains unchanged—to help disadvantaged youth in Harrisburg.

In February, Jeannetta Politis was appointed executive director, filling the shoes of well-known founder, Kirk Hallett, who retired after a long career.

“I plan to continue Kirk’s mission of providing at-risk youth in Harrisburg with educational opportunities and to expand the program,” Politis said. “I also want to find additional ways to serve our students with developing a strategic plan to provide more services.”

Joshua Group operates as a nonprofit learning center, offering pre-school, kindergarten, summer and scholarship programs at no cost to qualifying families through its various funding and donors. For Joshua Group’s board of directors, Politis’ appointment was a slam-dunk, according to board president Matthew Brouillette.

“Everyone immediately and unanimously embraced the idea,” he said. “Having served on the board herself and understanding both the mission and culture of Joshua, we all knew Jeannetta would be the perfect successor to carry on the work that Kirk started over 20 years ago.”

Hallett founded Joshua Group in 1998 with a broad goal of wanting to help Harrisburg children, he recently recalled.

“I had a mission to help kids in Harrisburg to get an education so they can contribute to society, as well as the job market,” he said. “Joshua Group has always believed in the power of education as the anti-poverty program that works.”

The nonprofit started up that year in the former St. Francis School building and gym, beginning mostly as a recreational program. More programs followed, focused largely on educational issues, helping kids stay in school and encouraging graduation, according to Hallett.

In 2003, Joshua Group representatives and supporters restored a house on the 1400-block of Market Street as an operational base.

“This new location… gave us a greater presence in the neighborhood and allowed us to establish a variety of new programs to include tutoring to fulfill the increased demand for our outreach services,” Hallett said

In 2007, the organization became a program partner of the United Way for its local community work. The Joshua Learning Center opened in 2014, offering a range of educational programs and services in Allison Hill. The facility currently serves around 250 low-income children and families from the Harrisburg School District.

The Joshua Group Preschool Program runs at the center from Head Start’s waiting list for 3- to 5-year olds from low-income families in Harrisburg. Joshua Group also offers a full-day kindergarten licensed by the state Department of Education for up to 17 students, as well as a seven-week summer learning program. The center’s J-Crew After-School Program is a comprehensive academic tutoring and social mentoring program serving more than 175 K-12 students.

Politis has a lot on her plate in her new role, overseeing these many programs and responsibilities. But Hallett said that she has the knowledge, experience and skills that he knew his successor would need.

Indeed, Politis brings “business and numbers” expertise to the job, coming from a career spanning more than 20 years in the retail and commercial banking industry. During her nine years as a Joshua Group board director, she assisted Hallett with a strategic course of philanthropy to better coordinate corporate giving with Joshua Group’s educational mission. In fact, she most recently served as the board’s secretary.

“Jeannetta has been perfect for us,” Hallett said. “I believe she was the first person to come to me and say that she wanted the job, and I said to her, ‘Here’s the keys.’”

The Joshua Learning Center is located at 1459 Market St., Harrisburg. For information about its programs or to donate, visit www.joshuagroup.org or call the center at 717-972-0129 or office at 717-236-4464.

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Tasty Ticket: Harrisburg Food Tours showcases the city’s cuisine

Nada Walton

It was the first time that Kristi Woodburn of Ephrata had ever stepped foot inside Harrisburg’s Broad Street Market.

“I love how all the stands have international flavors,” Woodburn said, her eyes wide, taking in the sights, sounds and scents.

Another first-time market-goer, Maria Angelo of Hummelstown, sampled six vendors’ specialties. From appetizers to beverages, several main dishes and dessert, it was all part of a food tour—each tasty morsel served up with accompanying stories about culture intertwined with cuisine, small business success, sprinkled with Harrisburg history.

While food tours are well-established in many American cities, Harrisburg Food Tours appears to be the first in Pennsylvania’s capital city.

“What an awesome thing for Harrisburg—a way to celebrate the diversity of cultures,” Angelo said. “And as a tour guide, Nada has a casual, welcoming style—she becomes your friend.”

She’s talking about Nada Walton, founder and owner of Harrisburg Food Tours.

Walton, 45, of Harrisburg, guides guests like Angelo and Woodburn through the market, as well as Midtown restaurants, pointing out the city’s architectural gems along the way, even taking time for a stroll along—and offering info about—the Susquehanna River. The walking route connects the dots between city eateries, and it feels good to move in between both sweet and savory samples.

“I chose to start and end tours at the Broad Street Market because the market is not only about the food,” Walton said. “It’s a gathering place, plus there’s lots of history and culture.”

 

That’s the Ticket

Walton dreamed of creating Harrisburg Food Tours for three years while she did her homework—noshing and note-taking through other city food tours, from Gettysburg to New Orleans, plus attending classes at Chicago’s Food Tour Pros.

Next, networking with Harrisburg restaurant partners was key. With tour routes and ticketing in place, Walton launched Harrisburg Food Tours in September 2019. Her first six months of operation brought success—a growing number of foodie partnerships and booked tours.

The pandemic slowed her momentum and shifted tour operations. There were occasional private tours—which many restaurant partners appreciated—with guests’ comfort levels dictating whether tours entered restaurants or stayed outside to munch on samples. Some of Harrisburg Food Tours’ original partners closed amid the pandemic—the market’s Phyllo and Pikowski’s Pierogi Place, for example. So, Walton had to pivot, change course and continue forging relationships.

“It’s almost like I’m starting over,” she said. “But as restaurants and businesses started opening back up, 2020 into 2021, even now, people like being able to get out and do something, because a lot of the tour is walking outside.”

Attendees range from families, locals and visitors alike, girlfriend getaways, couples’ date nights, even repeat customers who’ve brought new groups of friends. Tours last about three hours and cost about $50.

“I love the idea of food tours and sharing the stories behind food,” said Jennie O’Neill, owner of Knead and the first to partner with Harrisburg Food Tours. “I think it adds so much to our community.”

Even though tour-goers have likely had pizza a million times, their taste buds are usually surprised by O’Neill’s unique pies, including the “Baby Badger,” a Brazilian-style pizza with hot, spicy-sweet honey. And food tour samples usually bring them back as customers, O’Neill said, no matter where they’re from.

“I think food tours are an opportunity to demystify Harrisburg,” O’Neill said. “Sometimes, there are barriers put in your way when you live in a more suburban or rural place, but the food tour provides accessibility to our city that Nada is guiding you through.”

Lifetime of Culture

Walton’s life experiences seem to have prepared her for this role. She’s lived in five countries and several U.S. states, has traveled extensively around the globe, and speaks five languages. Her childhood was spent in Saudi Arabia, then Canada, with parents both born in Palestine. Her half-Russian, half-Lebanese mother instilled the importance of hospitality in her.

“I grew up with a mother who wanted to feed everybody,” Walton said. “Culturally, that’s what we did.”

With a zest for travel, one of Walton’s first jobs was teaching English in South Korea. Marriage to her Army officer husband, Lawrence, took her across the United States and across the pond to England—including a stop at Ft. Indiantown Gap.

“We had a house in Harrisburg from 2006 to 2008, and when Lawrence retired from the Army in 2016, we chose to move back here because Harrisburg has everything you could need in a city—parks, sports, concerts, theaters, less traffic than other cities and definitely good food. So, we didn’t see the need to live anywhere else,” Walton said.

Restaurateurs like O’Neill are grateful that Walton put her roots down here—and planted Harrisburg Food Tours.

“Nada’s love of sharing food—it’s what food is all about, and it’s what we in the restaurant industry do,” O’Neill said. “We want to bring people together over food.”

Like good recipes, Harrisburg Food Tours seems to combine all the right ingredients.

“Having a food tour business in the city of Harrisburg allows me to bring people into the city to eat in places they might not otherwise know about,” Walton said. “Food brings people together, and food creates memories.”

To learn more about Harrisburg Food Tours, visit harrisburgfoodtours.com.

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Gratitude & Hattitude: With “Crowns,” Sankofa revives a musical designed to heal, uplift

The cast of “Crowns”

 

“Teddy my brother 

Got shot one day

After his funeral

Ma sent me away

Down South

To open the door

To let the light in

On a brand-new day

To grandma’s house

To consider my sins

To open my eyes

To how I fit in- 

To open my eyes to how I fit in-”

When “Crowns” was produced in Harrisburg for the first time in 2006, audiences were blown away.

Here was a musical that mixed gospel music, movement and dance, and a deeply moving and relevant story that centered on Black culture and a uniquely Black journey. The show was so popular it warranted a remount the following year, which brought back the cast to celebrate another successful run.

One of those cast members was Sharia Benn, now the president and executive artistic director of Sankofa African American Theatre Company, a performance and education-based theater company that has brought to life such productions as “Echoes of Voices of the Eighth,” “Pretty Fire,” “for colored girls…” and “Akeelah and the Bee.”

Now, Benn takes the helm as director and producer of “Crowns” and is tasked with bringing it back to Open Stage where it made its Harrisburg premiere 16 years ago. When asked about her memories of the previous production, Benn recalled her time on stage fondly.

“I remember having moved to Harrisburg. I had a feeling that I had come home—a theater space where there were other Black theater actors. I still have connections with other cast members. We turned into a family.”

At the beginning of “Crowns,” we meet Yolanda, a lost, young Brooklynite who serves as our guide. Yolanda has been sent to live with her grandmother (known to her community as “Mother Shaw”) after her brother is the victim of gun violence. The other characters—largely women of her grandmother’s church congregation—serve as touch points to Yolanda and as spiritual advisors on her search for meaning and mooring. Their stories center on the experience of Black women finding their place in the world using vignettes on marriage, death, love, family and, of course, life in the church.

This brings us to the title of the play, “Crowns.” Author Regina Taylor was inspired by a book of the same name by Michael Cunningham and Craig Marberry: “Crowns: Portraits of Black Women in Church.” Elegant, flamboyant, bright and big, hats of all shapes and sizes have been a part of life in the church, and accompanying those accessories is the all-important “hattitude.”

“So hattitude,” according to Benn, “is the strength, the foundation, that a woman has to have before she puts a hat on her head. It takes a confidence that these ‘Hat Queens’ have to have before they walk into church. Because eyes will be on you.”

“Hattitude is a fierceness. It is owning the strength of who you are.”

Although it is called a “gospel musical” (and many will recognize songs such as “His Eye Is on the Sparrow” and “Wade in the Water”), the show is an electric mixture of gospel, rap, jazz and African beats.

“The music guides it,” Benn said. “The origin of gospel music literally goes back to the origins of African traditions. The flow of the African drumbeats and rhythms to slave call and response to jazz to what we’ve come to know as modern gospel.”

Benn believes that every person in the audience will be able to connect with the celebration that is prominent in “Crowns” and the “foot-tapping, hand-clapping, soul-stirring music” that accompanies the story.

“It’s true to who we are,” Benn said. “Our history. Our culture. It centers and uplifts Blackness in a way that is inclusive—regardless of race or gender.”

While audiences can expect soaring songs, bright lights and costumes—and stellar performances showcasing talent from the central Pennsylvania region—they can also expect a very familiar and human story, one that will serve as medicine for the community.

“‘Crowns’” is “a place of refuge and joy,” Benn said, believing that it was important to bring the show back for Harrisburg audiences. “This is the perfect show to do about healing. It is joyous. Let’s have some joy. Let’s have some beauty against the backdrop of COVID.”

“Everybody in Harrisburg will connect with these stories,” she said. “This play communicates, ‘I get you. I’ve been there. You can get through this.’”

“Crowns” runs May 28 through June 26 at Open Stage, 25 N. Court St., Harrisburg. Tickets can be purchased at www.openstagehbg.com or at the box office.

 

UPCOMING EVENTS AT HARRISBURG’S PROFESSIONAL DOWNTOWN THEATERS

 

At Gamut Theatre
www.gamuttheatre.org
717-238-4111

TMI Improv
“Friday the 13th Show”

Friday, May 13 at 7:30 p.m.

Doors and bar open 45 minutes prior to the performance.

Tickets are $10.

 

At Open Stage
www.openstagehbg.com
717-232-6736

“EFF Live!”
Readings of funny and naughty fan fiction
May 6, 7:30 p.m.

“The Obstructed View”
Harrisburg’s gay talk show

May 7, 7:30 p.m.

Black NewsBeat
With Dr. Kimeka Campbell
May 11 & 25, 7:30 p.m.

“Crowns”
A gospel musical
May 28 to June 26

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“Come Back to the Movies”: This year’s Jewish Film Festival offers a blend of live, virtual elements

“Persian Lessons”

One by one, in-person events have been returning to our lives.

This is great news for fans of one of our area’s most-anticipated annual celebrations—the Edward S. Finkelstein Harrisburg Jewish Film Festival. After two years of being virtual-only, the festival will feature dual formats this year.

“The festival will be a hybrid of live and virtual screenings to accommodate everyone eager to get back to the theater, as well as the many who are not yet ready to do so,” explained Julie Sherman, festival chair.

This year, the festival comprises Israeli, American, Canadian and European films— documentaries, dramas and one comedy. In-person screenings will take place at both Midtown Cinema and the Harrisburg Jewish Community Center (JCC).

Opening night is May 19 at the JCC, when the first two episodes of an Israeli television miniseries, “The New Jew,” will be screened. The final two episodes will screen at the JCC a week later, on May 26.  Both JCC events will be followed by dessert receptions.

“The series was made to try to explain to Israelis what American Jews were all about,” said Sherman. “It’s light-hearted, but fascinating, because in this country we express our ‘Jewishness’ in a wide variety of ways.”

Five films will screen at Midtown Cinema over the weekend of May 21 to 22.  Among them are “Image of Victory,” a drama based on a desert battle during Israel’s War of Independence, and “A Lullaby for the Valley,” a documentary about an Israeli artist who paints huge canvases of the views outside his studio.

“We chose these pictures for live screenings because the vistas are so beautiful,” Sherman said. “You really can’t appreciate them on a laptop or phone.”

For live screenings at both venues, proof of vaccination and photo ID are required. Masks are encouraged.

Throughout the festival, from May 19 through June 1, eight additional films will be available virtually only, and all but one of the pictures that are screened live will also be available virtually after their live screenings are over.

The one exception is this season’s Book Club Film, “Gentleman’s Agreement,” the 1947 Academy Award-winning drama based on a best-selling novel of the same name by Laura Z. Hobson, which will screen once only, at Midtown Cinema. The movie stars Gregory Peck as a newspaper journalist who poses as a Jew to expose anti-Semitism in New York City and affluent communities in neighboring Connecticut after World War II.

“The film is celebrating its 75th anniversary this year, and while it does not pack quite the same wallop as it did upon its release, its subject matter is as timely now as ever,” Sherman said.

Other films include “Marry Me However,” about gay men in the Orthodox Jewish community who have chosen to meet the dictates of Jewish law through marriage and having children at the expense of their true selves; “Persian Lessons,” about a young Belgian who is sent to a concentration camp and narrowly avoids execution by swearing to the guard that he isn’t Jewish, but Persian; and “Plan A,” a thriller based on the true story of a post-WWII group of Jewish vigilantes who vowed to kill one German citizen for every Jew killed in the war.

Three documentaries, all available virtually, focus on people who have had a broad impact on society: Israeli Prime Minister Menachem Begin, billionaire philanthropist George Soros and comedian and mental health spokesman Howie Mandel.

Sherman acknowledged that the pandemic has changed festival patrons’ viewing habits.

“Our audience got used to watching movies at home, at their leisure, anytime,” she said. “They like it. So, we’ll probably never again have an all-in-person festival. There will always be some kind of virtual component. But we’ve got to get everyone back to the theater!”

Sherman fears that, due to the pandemic, moviegoers have lost the important communal experience of seeing a film together.

“Until people come back, they won’t know what they’ve been missing,” she said. “So all I can say is, please come back to the movies.”

For more information, including ticketing information and a full movie slate, visit www.hbgjff.com.

 

Pick Your Format

This year, the Edward S. Finkelstein Harrisburg Jewish Film Festival will take place both live and virtually. Live events include:

“The New Jew” (episodes 1 & 2)
Thursday, May 19, 7 p.m.
Harrisburg Jewish Community Center
3301 N. Front St., Harrisburg
Dessert reception follows.

“Love and Mazel Tov”
Saturday, May 21, 8:45 p.m.

Midtown Cinema
250 Reily St., Harrisburg

“Gentleman’s Agreement” (Book Club film), 10 a.m.
“Unheard Voices” and “Marry Me However,” 2 p.m.

“A Lullaby for the Valley,” 4:45 p.m.

“Image of Victory,” 7 p.m.
Sunday, May 22
Midtown Cinema

“The New Jew” (episodes 3 & 4)
Thursday, May 26, 7 p.m.

Harrisburg Jewish Community Center
Dessert reception follows.

All films not screened live at the JCC or Midtown Cinema will be available virtually from 9 p.m. on May 19 until 9 p.m. on June 1. Films screened live at the JCC or Midtown Cinema will become available virtually the following day. For film schedules, to purchase virtual tickets, and to log in and access films, visit www.hbgjff2022.eventive.org.

 

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May Editor’s Note

Recently, a gentleman stopped by our office to offer his services as a volunteer.

It wasn’t the first time this has happened.

Over the years, many people have asked if they could help us out with everything from writing to proofreading to delivering—for free!

For the most part, we’ve declined these generous offers as we already have a solid team in place to handle the day-to-day, the week-to-week and the month-to-month. We simply don’t have extra duties that aren’t already being covered.

That said—we appreciate this kindness so much. It’s incredibly heartwarming to know that some folks love TheBurg to the extent that they want to donate their precious time to us.

The guy who dropped by last month mentioned another way that he’s helping, one that actually is very valuable to us. He said that he recently joined our membership program, Friends of TheBurg.

By coincidence, we just celebrated the second anniversary of our Friends program. We launched it in April 2020, right at the start of the pandemic, hoping that the generosity of our readers would help us make it through that time of crisis. The results are in—it did!

As of this writing, we have well over 400 Friends of TheBurg, people who have voluntarily forked over a little of their hard-earned money to ensure that we continue to offer, at no cost to the general community, our award-winning magazine, daily local news reporting, monthly podcast and local events.

People have asked me how we can provide all of this for free, as we have no subscription fee or paywall and, in fact, rarely charge for anything we offer. It’s because of the generosity of the central PA community—our community publishers, our sponsors and our Friends of TheBurg, in addition to our many loyal advertisers.

Thank you all so much! I think that we’ve (mostly) reached the other side of the pandemic, and we could not have done it without you. If you’d like to become a Friend of TheBurg, you just need to visit our website to join. As a thanks, we’ll send you a nifty tote bag, and you’ll receive invites for events that we’re starting to plan.

Otherwise, I hope that you enjoy the May issue, which is focused on area dining—one of our favorites topics. It’s finally warmed up around central PA. In my book, that makes it the perfect time to grab an outdoor table, order a fine cocktail and enjoy something tasty from one of our city’s fabulous restaurants.

Lawrance Binda
Co-Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

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Best o’ Pesto: Once Upon a Pesto reveals unique recipes using local produce

Jessica Paholsky

In a short time, pesto has become a worldwide phenomenon, spreading around the globe from its founding on the Ligurian coast of Italy.

Although basil is the most popular base for this sauce, pesto recipes can be made using many ingredients—some you may not have thought of before. The resulting concoction may not even be green!

As the creator of Once Upon a Pesto, Dauphin County resident Jessica Paholsky specializes in unique pesto recipes. She combines often-unfamiliar produce to create flavor profiles of pesto that help at-home chefs travel the world through their tastebuds.

Once Upon a Pesto, Paholsky’s website, was born when she worked at a publishing house and dreamed of writing a cookbook. Her inspiration stems from the idea that pesto is a process, not a recipe. It can be made by grinding or blending ingredients together and is customizable across cultures.

Paholsky specializes in crafting pesto recipes that pair well with a signature dish, paying homage to the history of specific geographic regions around the world.

“When creating my recipes, I discover a significance to a single ingredient in a certain culture or country,” she said. “From there, I research more about that food and why it plays a role in that culture. Then I use my culinary experience to combine flavors and textures, resulting in a brand-new pesto.”

Since its founding in 2016, Once Upon a Pesto has blossomed into a fusion of food history, recipes and international cultures. Paholsky also has expanded her social media presence, growing her following to the double-digit thousands.

“My goal for anyone consuming my content is to discover food history while also exploring countries new to them,” she said.

Summertime, with its vegetable gardens and abundance of locally grown veggies, is the perfect time to try a new pesto recipe, Paholsky said.

“Summer brings us the freshest asparagus and tender herbs here in central Pennsylvania,” she said. “So, now is the time to put those foods to primetime use.”

With food sensitivities in mind, Paholsky enjoys cultivating pesto recipes that are mindful of allergies and versatile for peak produce seasons. Bonus? Pesto sauces are a delicious way to hide veggies from carnivores or picky eaters.

“You don’t have to be advanced in cooking to benefit from my content,” Paholsky said. “It’s just as much about the experience and learning as it is about the culinary foundation.”

Last summer—to evolve her brand—Paholsky expanded her social media content to include videos, specifically Instagram lives, with foodies from around the world. Each conversation features one person who is an expert in a certain region’s cuisine and culture.

“I’ve hosted culinary gurus from as far as New Zealand and South Africa to Germany and Honduras,” Paholsky said. “They are cookbook authors, TV show stars and full-time food bloggers who I’ve naturally connected with through our shared interests.”

That is what Once Upon a Pesto is all about—connecting people around the world, uniting over a common language of food and learning from one another.

For more information and recipes visit www.onceuponapesto.com. Follow the brand on Instagram @onceuponapasto to watch her Instagram lives and learn about food history.

 

Sauce It!

Once Upon a Pesto specializes in unique pesto recipes, inspired by ingredients from around the world, including the ones listed below. Founder Jessica Paholsky says it’s easy to make these sauces—simply combine all the ingredients in a food processor and blend until the desired consistency forms.

 

Asparagus Pesto 

Inspired by Peru

Peru ranks as one of the world’s largest producers of asparagus. Through irrigation methods, farmers are able to grow the stalk year-round, and the plants are productive for 15 to 20 years. Half of their crops are green asparagus; the other half are white.

Ingredients

3 cups asparagus pieces

1/2 cup onion pieces

1/3 cup shelled pistachios

3 tablespoons ricotta cheese

1 tablespoon lemon juice

1/4 cup olive oil

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon pepper

 


Swiss Chard Pesto 

Inspired by Switzerland

Chard comes from the Latin word that means “artichoke thistle.” And the use of the adjective Swiss is not clear because Swiss chard is not native to Switzerland. Instead, it comes from the Mediterranean coasts. The leafy green is a close relative of beets.

Ingredients

3 cups Swiss chard leaves

3 garlic cloves

1/2 cup Gruyère cheese

1/3 cup walnut halves

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

1/4 cup olive oil

1 teaspoon salt

 

Daikon Pesto

Inspired by Japan

Daikon is also known as “Japanese radish” or “true daikon.” It’s a white radish, and its name literally means “great root” in Japanese. In Japan’s food culture, there are many uses for the root vegetable, from pickling, simmering or drying daikon to grating it into a soy sauce.

Ingredients

2 cups Daikon pieces

1/4 cup dill weed

2 scallions

2 tablespoons honey

2 tablespoons soy sauce

2 tablespoons lemon juice


Yam Pesto 

Inspired by Nigeria

In Nigeria, the yam is sometimes called the “king of crops.” Not only do Nigerians value the versatility of yams, but they also hold an annual celebration at the end of the farming season that honors the tuber. There are dances, parades, costumes and many yam dishes to eat.

Ingredients

2 cups cooked yam pieces

3/4 cup cooked leek pieces

1/4 cup thyme leaves

1/3 cup pecan halves

1/3 cup orange juice

1/4 cup olive oil

 

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Kicking Off: A new national women’s soccer league debuts—and Harrisburg-area Eagle F.C. is the first and only PA team on the pitch

Meg Tate

Lexi Johnson is known for being vocal on the soccer field.

“As a defender, I have a view of the whole field, so I’m always trying to direct the play,” said Johnson, of Harrisburg. “I’ve been described as a leader—I can be loud.”

Now, she has a new reason to be vocal. She sees the opportunity of a lifetime on the field—the chance to play in this summer’s inaugural season of a new national women’s soccer league, on the only team representing Pennsylvania, comprised of the capital region’s best homegrown players.

Eagle F.C., based in Mechanicsburg, is one of 44 U.S. semi-professional teams formed under the United Soccer League’s new women’s league, called the USL W, launching this month.

“Being on this team and having the opportunity to possibly move forward into a professional role—it’s the opportunity to keep dreaming,” said Johnson, a Central Dauphin High School soccer standout who’s wrapping up her junior year at the University of Pittsburgh at Johnstown.

The league is designed as a bridge between college and professional soccer, building on the wave of women’s soccer growth launched by the U.S. Women’s National Team’s success—and tapping into a deep talent pool of American soccer players.

“A lot of girls growing up would like to dream about professional soccer—and they do. But then they get older and realize there’s not much opportunity,” said Hannah Young, a midfielder named to Eagle F.C.’s inaugural roster. “But now this league will inspire little kids to keep dreaming and not give up. A huge thing in life and sport is belief.”

 

Coming Home

Young is grateful for the chance to play for Eagle F.C., calling it “exactly what I need,” following a college soccer career plagued by injuries. She’s set to graduate from the University of Nebraska this month and return to her hometown of Enola, where she’s the all-time leading goal scorer and overall points leader in East Pennsboro High School history.

Altogether, the roster of 28 women is either already living in the Harrisburg area, coming home from college for the summer, or returning home to launch careers, all drawn by the chance to continue playing the game they love.

“I think central Pennsylvania has one of the most talented player pools in the region,” said Toan Ngo, Eagle F.C.’s USL W’s head coach. “All the players have been successful here at the high school level, with multiple Mid-Penn Central All-Stars, high school record holders. They’ve not only been successful here in their hometown, but they’ve gone off to play at high-level DI, DII and DIII [college] programs.”

Ngo, 33, of Mechanicsburg, knows about opportunity. A former Cumberland Valley High School and Penn State Harrisburg soccer standout, he transitioned to coaching at a young age. Over the past 13 years, he’s coached two college teams, two high school teams and multiple club teams.

“Central Pennsylvania lost something when we lost the City Islanders,” Ngo said. “The USL as a league has been around many years, and has been very successful on the men’s side—the Harrisburg City Islanders played in the USL. So [forming this team] was an opportunity we couldn’t pass up.”

The Beautiful Game

For the soccer-uninitiated, it’s known as “the beautiful game” for good reason.

“It’s a lot of thinking as a coach and as a player, because it’s basically a chess match,” Ngo said. “You tactically prepare your team, are constantly thinking about what changes you can make, if any, to get that advantage. It’s 11 players on each team trying to get the ball into the net.”

It’s as much a mental battle as it is a physical one, and his fulltime job likely gives Ngo the mental edge. He’s a civil servant for the Department of the Navy as a data engineer, focused on analytics and solutions.

“My analytics background carries over—I’m doing the same thing as a coach,” Ngo said. “Analytics are a big part of game. They show strengths and deficiencies.”

 

Big Goals

Eagle F.C.’s season kicks off this month, May 21, on the road. Harrisburg-area fans have the first chance to attend a home game on Memorial Day weekend, Friday night, May 27 at Boiling Springs High School’s turf field—the summer season’s home field. Tickets are $5.

“This area has a huge passion for soccer,” Ngo said, “So, we want folks to come fill the stadium. We have 1,000-plus seating capacity, so be loud, be proud, and support this group of women. Chant, sing, bring out drums—make it an amazing atmosphere.”

While setting the scene, Ngo also sets a high bar of expectation for this trailblazing team.

“I think we’re going to be very competitive, if not challenge for the [Mid-Atlantic] division title,” Ngo said. “We have a core 28 players that are ready to get the job done. Our goal is to win the division and then see how far we can go nationally. I believe we have the ability to bring a national title to central Pennsylvania.”

But there are even more goals in his sights.

“The USL Super League is being formed in August 2023, which then would feed into the [professional] National Women’s Soccer League (NWSL),” Ngo said. “We want to get an invitation to play in the Super League [as a professional team]. We’re hoping to be as successful as the City Islanders one day.”

Financially, the new team is attracting corporate sponsors to underwrite costs—primarily uniforms, travel and administrative fees. Because it’s a semi-professional team—not fully professional—players are not paid. Coaches earn small stipends.

“It’s enough to cover my gas money,” Ngo said with a laugh. “For me, it’s about instilling my passion for the game, to be able to bring this back to the community, to give back to these players—especially those I’ve coached before. To watch them go from U8 to college and be successful—no amount of money could pay for that.”

 

For the W

It’s easy to interpret the league’s hashtag, #FortheW, as “for the win,” but it’s also “for the women.” The USL W League’s mission is “to use women’s soccer as a force for societal good by creating a national platform to increase opportunity, gender equity and career development.”

“I think the U.S., in particular, struggles with having women in leadership, in sports. Right now, comparably, there are so many less women than men involved in sports. So, this is a great opportunity to bring more women’s sports out in the world,” said Meg Tate of Carlisle and Dickinson College, a midfielder/forward named to Eagle F.C.’s squad.

Tate wants to utilize another pipeline formed by the new league—the training and development of women’s soccer coaches, to further grow the sport.

The new league’s impact is designed to ripple through the generations.

“I hope we can set the precedent for the women’s teams that will be coming after us, who will want to strive to be better than us,” said Johnson, “and that it will keep building and spreading and getting better.”

For more information on Eagle F.C, including the team schedule, see www.eagle-fc.com/usl-women. And to hear more of head coach Toan Ngo’s story, tune into TheBurg Podcast’s May show, which will be available on Friday, May 13.

 

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