Taste of Home: Chef Nadine Graham expands Jamaican restaurant, continues family legacy

Nadine Graham grew up in a big family, which meant lots of cooks in the kitchen. While it was a necessary daily task of feeding the many family members, it was also a time for bonding.

Graham’s parents were at the helm of it all, teaching her and her siblings how to make the traditional dishes of their home country—Jamaica. The crew cooked for their community, including local politicians and business people. Graham’s father also owned a successful bakery.

The days of cooking with her family in Jamaica may have long passed, but, if anything, Graham has only spent more time in the kitchen in the years following her move to the United States. She’s cooking up those same Jamaican dishes, but for a different community.

Porters House, Graham’s Caribbean restaurant, a long-time Broad Street Market vendor, has expanded. The business now has its own standalone restaurant in Uptown Harrisburg, and Graham couldn’t be prouder to see her dream come true.

 

Craving Caribbean

After moving from Jamaica to New York to Harrisburg, Graham realized that authentic Jamaican cuisine was hard to come by in the area.

She set out to change that, opening Porters House in 2012, at a time when there were only a few other vendors in the now-packed market.

“This is the overall most authentic Jamaican restaurant from here to Philadelphia and Baltimore,” she said.

Graham grew to love the market, making friends with regular customers and fellow market vendors. But she had a dream of growing her business and owning a restaurant, like her dad had with his bakery in Jamaica.

In December, she opened Porters House on N. 6th Street, painting the roof with the colors of the Jamaican flag. The inside of the restaurant is just as colorful. Palm trees painted on the walls give it a Caribbean feel, making even the winter months feel tropical.

At the counter, customers will recognize dishes from the market stand. There’s fish, jerk shrimp, chicken soup, oxtail and beef patties, among other items. Graham’s keeping some foods, like soup specials, exclusively at the market to encourage customers to visit both locations.

If anyone knows authentic Jamaican food, it’s Raphael Simpson, and he gave Porters House a rave review.

Simpson comes from a Jamaican family, and his father owns a Jamaican restaurant in Philadelphia. He discovered Porters House while studying at Penn State University and quickly became a regular. It gave him a taste of home.

“It’s rare that you find somewhere where you really enjoy the food,” Simpson said, referencing how hard it was to find quality Jamaican cuisine in the area. “She really stays true to selling a variety of items. She carries the same or more than places in New York would carry.”

Simpson even convinced Graham to cater quarterly events for PSU’s Caribbean Student Association from 2016-19.

Over the years, they became friends, and Simpson admired the way Graham cared for customers. He recalls sometimes even seeing her give food to those in line who couldn’t afford a meal.

“She sells food, but she loves people,” he said. “She has a beautiful heart, and you can taste it in her food.”

 

Stuff of Life

Days are long for Graham. She gets up at 4 a.m. to pray and watch the news before work begins at 7. She’s cooking and interacting with customers all day, she said. But she loves it.

“I’ll cook in my sleep,” she said. “If I’m not at the market or cooking, I get depressed. It’s therapy for me.”

When Graham’s father passed away a decade ago, cooking was what got her through. She was depressed for seven years, and seeing the bakery that her father put so much work into close down made it even harder.

But she kept moving forward, knowing how her father would feel seeing her succeed.

“He would be so ecstatic,” Graham said, with tears in her eyes. “He would be very proud.”

After securing the building, once a KFC and later Kennedy Fried Chicken, it took a year of hard work to get the restaurant open. It was taxing, and Graham had her doubts that it would ever open.

But sitting at a table in the restaurant on a Monday afternoon, Graham said that she felt like she had finally made it.

“This project took a lot out of me, and I felt like walking away,” she said. “It’s only up from here. It’s like a dream come true.”

Employee Geneva Hill has seen how Graham has not only succeeded in business, but in creating a welcoming atmosphere for staff and customers.

“She’s like a mom to me,” Hill said. “If I’m down, she picks me up. When I need her, she’s there. It’s like a big, happy family.”

That’s what keeps Graham going through the ups and downs of business—the people. She loves the cooking, but she especially enjoys the one-on-one conversations with regulars and first-timers alike.

For Graham, it all comes back to family. She hopes that Porters House will survive her and be there for her children and grandchildren to visit. She’s already in the kitchen with her young grandson, teaching him to cook, like her family in Jamaica used to do.

“I want to leave a legacy for my children,” Graham said. “Food always brings family together. Food is the stuff of life.”

Porters House has two Harrisburg locations, 2001 N. 6th St. and in the Broad Street Market. For restaurant hours and menus, visit www.portershousecuisine.com.  

 

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February News Digest

Williams Sworn in as Harrisburg Mayor

Harrisburg’s new Mayor Wanda Williams vowed to be an “authentic leader” as she officially took office early last month.

Commonwealth Court Judge Lori Dumas swore in Williams as the city’s 39th mayor, along with Harrisburg City Council member Ausha Green, at an inaugural ceremony held at Whitaker Center.

Williams, a Democrat, won the November municipal election, dethroning previous two-term mayor Eric Papenfuse, who launched a write-in campaign after narrowly losing to Williams in the primary election.

Also in November, Green won re-election, along with incumbent council member Shamaine Daniels. Newly elected were Ralph Rodriguez and Jocelyn Rawls. Daniels, Rodriguez and Rawls were sworn in on separate occasions.

At the swearing in, Williams explained her inauguration as a new beginning for Harrisburg. She noted that, while the general election season was taxing as she battled Papenfuse and lost both of her parents, she was ready to get to work.

“I hope today that I made [my parents] proud,” Williams said. “We are here today because we came together and said that it’s time for a new dawn in Harrisburg.”

Williams, a lifelong resident of Harrisburg, had served on city council since 2006 and as council president for her last two terms.

At a reorganization meeting last month, council voted for member Danielle Bowers to take Williams’ former seat as council president. Green was chosen to serve as vice president.

Assuming her new role, Williams noted that some of her priorities as mayor will include building affordable housing, creating youth programming, improving infrastructure and fixing the city’s outdated sewer and stormwater systems.

“Now is the time to turn away from politics and focus on the real work that we must do together,” she said. “As we begin our new dawn, we must get back to the basics. Good enough is not good enough anymore.”

Much of the inaugural ceremony centered around Williams’ Christian faith, with local pastors and musicians offering blessings, prayers and song.

Family members also participated. Williams’ grandchildren led the Pledge of Allegiance, and her husband Jerome Williams held the Bible as she was sworn in.

Additionally, a few of Williams’ supporters took to the microphone.

“Wanda has great experience, she’s learned a lot, and I think she’s got the knowledge and experience to lead our city,” said Harrisburg Treasurer Dan Miller. “I, for one, am excited about the change in leadership.”

 


Samuels Leaves School District

The Harrisburg School District lost its top official last month.

Receiver Dr. Janet Samuels announced her resignation from her role then officially departed on Jan. 29.

In a news release, the district did not specify why Samuels was leaving at this time.

In 2019, the Dauphin County Court of Common Pleas placed Harrisburg under the Pennsylvania Department of Education’s control, selecting Samuels as the receiver of the district. The previous year, she served as chief recovery officer for the district.

With the appointment of Samuels, the school board was stripped of most of its power, with Samuels the sole vote on administrative proposals.

The receivership period was set for three years and is due to expire in June. However, according to the district, Samuels only committed to serve for one year and agreed to update the district’s Amended Financial Recovery Plan. In July 2021, the update was approved by the county court.

“I am honored to have had the privilege of serving the Harrisburg School District, and I am extremely proud of the work completed since my appointment as receiver, especially in the area of the finance,” Samuels said. “Although there is still much work to be done, I am confident the recently approved Amended Financial Recovery Plan, now in place, will serve as a framework to continue the positive trajectory of the Harrisburg School District.”

Samuels thanked the district’s staff, administrators and community stakeholders, along with the Montgomery County Intermediate Unit team, for the work they will continue in the district.

Under Samuels, the district has put a new leadership team in place, headed by Superintendent Eric Turman and Dr. Lori Suski, the district’s recently appointed chief recovery officer.

 

Bridge Project Details Revealed

The Pennsylvania Department of Transportation last month gave the public details of a major bridge project proposed for Harrisburg.

At the Wormleysburg Borough Office, PennDOT welcomed the public to comment on its plan to make improvements to the Market Street Bridge.

“We want to know what the public wants,” said Heidi Mertz, the project manager. “We are willing to listen and to see what we can come up with.”

Late last year, PennDOT announced a $63.8 million plan for the bridge, which spans the Susquehanna River, connecting downtown Harrisburg to Wormleysburg, as well as City Island in the middle.

According to PennDOT, the bridge is in “fair to poor” condition with cracking, rusting and drainage issues that must be addressed.

The project will include work on both sides of the bridge. Under the plan, PennDOT will rehab the historic arches of the century-old east portion and replace the deck and cracking sidewalks. They also plan to construct a new superstructure (deck and beams) on the western side.

But there’s a lot more to the project, changes that would impact the users of the bridge, as well as the businesses around it. The project could include cutting out lanes, creating new bike lanes or widening sidewalks.

PennDOT plans to begin construction in 2024. Mertz said that construction could take two to three years, plus additional time for the movement of utility lines under the sidewalks.

This timeline could change, depending on what happens with a proposed I-83 bridge project nearby. According to Mertz, construction on both bridges would not take place at the same time.

Throughout the Market Street Bridge construction, there will be access to City Island, PennDOT stated. They are still seeking public input and deciding how traffic will be maintained and detours employed.

For more information on the project, visit PennDOT’s website. Public comment will be accepted until Feb. 11.

 

Apartment Plan for “The Plum” Building

One of downtown Harrisburg’s oldest stores has closed up shop, and now its landmark building is slated to become a boutique apartment building.

Last month, Harristown Enterprises said that it had bought the red-brick, Victorian-style building that long housed The Plum, a downtown clothing and accessories store.

The building, at the corner of Locust and N. Court streets, will become a three-unit apartment building, according to Harristown.

“We are delighted to preserve this amazing building, which was built in 1900, and renovate it into three unique and desirable apartments in the heart of downtown,” said Brad Jones, president and CEO of Harristown, which will undertake the project with construction partner, Don Mowery. “Because this was the home of The Plum for more than half a century, purchasing and renovating this building has special meaning.”

Since 1967, The Plum has operated at this location by Isaac Mishkin and, later, with his daughter, Kirsten. The Mishkins put the building up for sale late last year.

“We are happy to see that the building will be preserved,” Isaac Mishkin said. “Having served on the Harristown board of directors for many years, it pleases me to know that they will take care of this historic structure.”

Harristown will renovate the 3,300-square-foot building into three, two-bedroom units, Jones said. He expects the work to begin in February and be completed in the fall.

In recent years, Harristown has converted numerous empty and under-used buildings in downtown Harrisburg from commercial to residential use.

The Plum still operates its store on the west shore, located at 3801 Old Gettysburg Rd., Camp Hill.

 

 Uptown Resource Center Opens

Harrisburg-based nonprofit Breaking The Chainz, Inc. last month cut the ribbon on a new resource center in the Camp Curtin neighborhood.

“We are looking forward to helping people,” said co-founder Kevin Dolphin. “I try to give men and women the chance they need.”

The resource center, located at 2134 N. 6th St., is a place for community members to seek help in areas such as trauma, substance abuse, housing, employment, re-entry and financial literacy, among other issues. It’s a one-stop shop for community members in need, Dolphin explained.

Breaking The Chainz provides counseling and mentoring services, as well as adult and youth educational courses. For services that they don’t provide in-house, staff and volunteers will refer clients to partner organizations.

“It’ll bridge the gap between different organizations and bring us all closer,” said Dorothy Scott, the organization’s co-founder and chief officer of finance and operations.

Scott said that they acquired the building, which was previously a small restaurant, in 2020 and renovated the first floor into an office and meeting space. Funds from a Dauphin County gaming grant assisted in the renovations.

On an upper level of the building are four apartment units. Scott said that they plan to use those as housing for mothers and children fleeing abusive situations.

Also attached to the property is a large garage space that they plan to convert into community meeting rooms and a music studio in the future, Scott said.

 

Home Sales, Prices Tick Up

Harrisburg-area home sales and prices both ticked higher in December, ending a strong year for previously owned houses.

In the three-county region, 774 homes sold compared to 761 in December 2020, while the median sales price rose to $229,900 versus $219,000 in the year-ago period, according to the Greater Harrisburg Association of Realtors (GHAR).

In Dauphin County, sales totaled 385 housing units, compared to 348 the prior December, as the median sales price rose to $205,550 versus $185,000 last year, GHAR said.

In Cumberland County, 333 houses sold, a decrease of 20 units from the prior December. However, the median sales price rose to $255,900 from $244,820 a year ago, according to GHAR.

Perry County had 46 home sales last month, an increase of six units compared to the prior December, as the median price rose to $190,500 versus $179,900 last year.

Houses in the area were also selling quickly, as the “average days on the market” dropped to 21 days last month compared to 26 days in December 2020, said GHAR.

 

So Noted

Bill DeVinney last month was named the new chief operating officer of The Englewood, a music venue, restaurant and brewery located just outside of Hershey. Previously, he served as director of operations at Dallastown, Pa.-based Wyndridge Farms and, before that, as regional manager with Iron Hill Brewery and Restaurant, according to The Englewood.

The Foreign Policy Association of Harrisburg last month changed its name to the Foreign Policy Association of Central Pennsylvania. The 72-year-old educational organization made the change to better reflect the regional nature of the group, according to the organization.

Goodwill Keystone Area last month appointed Ed Lada as its new president and CEO. Previously, Lada served as president and CEO of MoKan Goodwill and as vice president of contracts and facility management services for Goodwill of Southeastern Louisiana.

Harrisburg University last month announced a $1 million donation from The GIANT Company for a proposed Center for Advanced Agriculture and Sustainability, a 23,000-square-foot building planned for Harrisburg. The educational and research center will focus on sustainability, controlled environment agriculture and clean water initiatives, according to HU.

Harrisburg University Presents last month announced that it will bring back outdoor concerts this summer to Riverfront Park, with the indie band Lord Huron slated for Aug. 20. Additional shows will be announced soon, according to HU Presents.

Jade Honey last month was named the 2022 board president of Harrisburg Young Professionals (HYP).  Honey takes over from Sydney Kyler, who completed her one-year term. In addition, the HYP board named Monika Kohli and Olivia Edwards-Rindfuss as co-vice presidents, Iqbal Singh as treasurer and Allison McFadden as secretary for 2022.

 

Changing Hands

Adrian St., 2237: M. Wise & C. Bowling to A. Springs, $60,000

Adrian St., 2260: V. & R. Caraballo to C. Austin, $89,250

Balm St., 60: OJK Enterprises to Zion Management LLC, $120,000

Bellevue Rd., 1954: K. Becker to E. Alcantara, $45,500

Benton St., 624: K. & M. Sullivan to S. Ewings, $60,500

Berryhill St., 1627: Lynn & Ryan Investment Properties LLC to GM Estate LLC, $80,000

Berryhill St., 2150: B. Nguyen to Pledgestone Partners LLC, $70,000

Boas St., 220: P. & P. Patel to L. Fee, $107,500

Briggs St., 1909: K. Tasker to SPG Capital LLC, $54,000

Briggs St., 1939: J. Hardman to SPG Capital LLC, $52,500

Brookwood St., 2444: E. McPherson to L. Thomas, $102,000

Calder St., 266: J. & M. Robins to T. Gibson, $139,250

Camp St., 615: T. Fletcher to S. Warren, $69,900

Chestnut St., 1621: A. Bouhach to S. Salmoran, $95,000

Crescent St., 257: E. Seyoum & T. Dessalegn to F. Ahmed, $69,500

Crescent St., 347½: P. & E. Peffley to Medallo Real Estate LLC, $100,000

Derry St., 1137: C. Bennett to P. Novas, $40,000

Derry St., 1151: J. Vogelsong to Porch Time Property LLC, $40,000

Derry St., 1217: J. Vogelsong to P. Novas, $49,900

Derry St., 1219: J. Vogelsong to P. Novas, $49,900

Derry St., 1941: Harrisburg RA Owner LLC & Net Lease Capital Advisors LLC to S. & N. Gandhi, $2,440,000

Derry St., 2131: J. Hardman to SPG Capital LLC, $57,500

Derry St., 2339: R. & M. Malachowski to SNB Real Estate Solutions LLC, $42,500

Derry St., 2517: C. Huynh to E. & C. Saunders, $65,000

Ellersie St., 2340: O. Hernandez to R. Kehinde, $105,000

Emerald St., 245: JTA Consulting Group LLC to B. Moore, $164,300

Evergreen St., 121: SBN VII REO LLC to D&F Realty Holdings LP, $100,000

Green St., 811: J. Zimmerman to W. Hoover, $117,000

Green St., 1007: J. & C. Nunley to R. Hay, $170,000

Green St., 1312: J. & M. Robins to I. Pereira, $134,900

Green St., 1716: M. Hochstetler & J. Crossett to K. & A. Nichols, $174,900

Green St., 1946: P. Sosik to N. Luong & N. Nguyen, $165,000

Green St., 2116: M. & C. Stouffer to Crestmont Consolidated LLC, $130,000

Green St., 2237: JYess Investments LLC to J. Compton, $71,050

Green St., 2941: L. & F. Feinerman to J. & K. Pianka, $365,000

Greenwood St., 2101: B. Miller to O. Thomas, $80,000

Hamilton St., 430: C. Stoute to T. & L. Sneidman, $148,500

Harris St., 203: T. Burke to C. Emig & K. O’Connor, $242,500

Harris St., 441: R. & L. Derr to Legacy Auto Exchange LLC, $56,000

Harris Terr., 2459: T. Tran to M. Phan, $90,000

Harris Terr., 2477: N. & C. Gonzalez to G. Kroschel and K. & R. Becht, $97,000

Herr St., 300: L. Warfel to R. & C. Steele, $120,000

Herr St., 1721: R., V. & D. Fountain to A. Diaz, $42,000

Holly St., 2006: SCC Ward Inc. to SPG Capital LLC, $55,000

Hummel St., 415: J. Vogelsong to Porch Time Property LLC, $40,000

James St., 1321: J. Deya to PA Deals LLC, $80,000

Jefferson St., 2155: B. Torres to 2155 Jefferson Street Harrisburg PA LLC, $60,000

Jefferson St., 2516: M. Waithe to Sulpven LLC, $55,000

Kelker St., 327: G. & P. Eby to 34 Construction Group, $85,000

Kelker St., 429: P. Ryabikin to C. Fee, $105,000

Kensington St., 2034: V. Wisman to J. Prol & A. Seroskie, $41,000

Kensington St., 2105: MidAtlantic IRA, K. Derenzo IRA, N. Potocki IRA to D. Dowling, $64,450

Kensington St., 2200: Lansanah Home Services Group to V. Torres, $110,000

Kensington St., 2309: S. Betcke to D. & S. Dowling, $72,860

Lewis St., 309: J. Laing to D. Cruz, $149,900

Lexington St., 2625: J. Fasciglione to Bridger Investments LLC, $43,500

Linden St., 131: S. Wilkerson to Bridger Investments LLC, $55,000

Manada St., 2003: Henderson & Sons LLC to E. Perez & M. Sanchez, $120,000

Market St., 1203: Corona Enterprise Group to True Sanctuary LLC, $85,000

Market St., 1909: M. & M. Stephens to 6030 Properties LLC, $86,500

Market St., 1912: CPenn Patriot Properties Midtown LLC to SJL Rentals 2 LLC, $150,000

Melrose St., 732: M. & D. Kovalchick to Harrisburg Strong LLC, $56,000

Naudain St., 1527: Vogelsong Investment Properties LLC to Porch Time Property LLC, $40,000

North St., 1942A: R. Speece to B. Wargo, $57,400

N. 2nd St., 1110: MC Investment Properties LLC to PDI Properties LLC, $132,000

N. 2nd St., 1317 & 1709: CPenn Patriot Properties to SJL Rentals 2 LLC, $300,000

N. 2nd St., 2209: M. Luft & J. Schultz to J. & C. Nunley, $262,900

N. 2nd St., 2233: B. Solimeo to Keystone Property Group LLC, $185,000

N. 2nd St., 2650: A. Delmonte to D. & C. Fasching, $259,900

N. 2nd St., 2964: D. & N. Schertz to Invariant Real Estate III LLC, $65,000

N. 2nd St., 3125: D. McCamant to M. Kenz, $99,000

N. 3rd St., 1715: B. Allatt to J. Jacobs & J. Van Leeuwen, $170,000

N. 3rd St., 2020 & 1620 N. 2nd St.: CPenn Properties-Old Uptown LLC to SJL Rentals 2 LLC, $900,000

N. 3rd St., 2110: J. & K. Ginter to Lynn & Ryan Investment Properties LLC, $50,000

N. 3rd St., 2250: T. Bergman to J. Carter, $209,850

N. 3rd St., 2532: D. Tamang & P. Moti to P. Kamba, $190,000

N. 4th St., 1336 & 321 Calder St.: 1037 Maclay St LLC to SJL Rentals 2 LLC, $350,000

N. 4th St., 1905: A. Adesubokan to S. Thorne, $120,900

N. 4th St., 2318: RNR Remodeling to M. Roark, $58,000

N. 4th St., 3119: T. Gottshall to A. Johnson & A. Taylor, $155,900

N. 5th St., 2538: E. Miller to AAA Bouslama Property LLC, $55,000

N. 6th St., 1612: Church of the Living God to Timely Investments LLC, $140,000

N. 6th St., 2227: Meier & Simone LLC to Peace Casa LLC, $40,000

N. 6th St., 2537: Tang & Perkins Property Management LLC to F. Reyes,  $90,000

N. 7th St., 2322: M. Goldberg to DAP 7 Curtin LP, $925,000

N. 7th St., 2612: R. Martinez & R. Rasmussen to Q. Nguyen & T. Chu, $86,400

N. 12th St., 33: B. & L. Young to A. & E. Rhon, $47,000

N. 13th St., 116: T. Gilmore to J. Gilmore, $80,000

N. 13th St., 131: T. Patches to F. Contreras, $86,000

N. 15th St., 221: RNR Remodeling to M. & A. Reuveni, $47,825

N. 15th St., 1314: John W. Spencer IRA Equipty Trust Co. Custodian to Neidlinger Enterprises LLC, $41,500

N. 17th St., 717: C. & D. Bacallao to D. Bacallao, $105,000

N. 18th St., 38: D. Boyle to J. Jimenez, $40,000

N. 18th St., 616: E. Green to A. Pierre, $89,000

N. 19th St., 49: Carters Clean Up LLC to 49 19th Street LLC, $70,000

N. 19th St., 719: J. Hardman to SPG Capital LLC, $52,500

N. 19th St., 721: J. Hardman to SPG Capital LLC, $52,500

N. Front St., 1525, Unit 314: A. Winch to T. Yun, $110,000

N. Front St., 1525, Unit 508: A. Breneman to R. Shenoy, $196,000

Park St., 1832: D. Letterlough to D. Boyle, $43,000

Paxton St., 1712: Twin House Real Estate Associates LLC to P. DeJulian & J. Beltre, $125,000

Peffer St., 223: P. Baillie to C. Goff & E. Horne, $154,900

Penn St., 1625: W. Yankey to S. Blank, $215,500

Penn St., 2151: R. Rammouni to R. Estrella, $55,000

Reel St., 2627: J. & A. Robinson to Neidlinger Enterprises LLC, $46,000

Regina St., 1813: Sunshine ABQ Real Estate Investment LLC to M. Camacho, $60,000

Rolleston St., 1143 & 1145: J. Gregorits to A&K Investments Partnership LLC, $75,000

Ross St., 626: J. Vogelsong to WiseChoice USA LLC, $43,000

Rudy Rd., 1955: N. & R. Pierce to A. Miller, $84,900

Rudy Rd., 2221: W. & M. Allen to Top Notch Homes LLC, $107,500

Rumson Dr., 2578: F. Ibohim & L. Gom to R. Rodriguez, $120,000

Seneca St., 331: 2013 M&M Real Estate Fund LLC to M. Vines, $90,000

S. 13th St., 328: C. & K. Epp to K. Alvarez & E. Martinez, $56,000

S. 16th St., 11: J. & K. Ginter to Lynn & Ryan Investment Properties LLC, $50,000

S. 19th St., 1204: O. Banks to G. Pichardo, $65,000

S. 20th St., 214: M. Aljibory to J. Roxbury, $43,500

S. 25th St., 600: D. Pham to G. Diaz, $124,900

S. 25th St., 614: Landmark Holdings Group LLC to T. Tran, $40,000

S. 25th St., 707: US Bank Trust National Assoc. LB Igloo Series IV Trust, SN Servicing Corp., E. Glover & H. Glover to R. Richardson, $85,900

S. Front St., 573: B. & K. Crews to R. English & B. Mackley, $160,000

Spencer St., 1837: L. Lewis to E. Ayala, L. Hernandez & N. Vogt, $52,000

State St., 1829: R. & N. Daniels to R. & M. Welch, $75,000

State St., 1915: L. Hill to A. Elnigoumi, $42,000

State St., 1918: Dreamland Investors LLC to D&A Homes LLC, $79,100

Susquehanna St., 1825: M. Manley to A. McFadden, $150,000

Susquehanna St., 2136: E. & R. Killeen to Embass Investments LLC, $119,500

Swatara St., 2014: H. Chisolm & M. Patterson to Neidlinger Enterprises LLC, $51,000

Verbeke St., 220: J. Sklarosky & M. Palermo to C. Long & N. Kurish, $150,000

Waldo St., 2627: S. Henry to N. & B. Joerger, $85,000

Waldo St., 2632: D. Hargrove & D. Surbrena to SPG Capital LLC, $49,500

Woodbine St., 320: J. & K. Block to J. & J. Mangan, $145,900

Harrisburg property sales for December 2021, greater than $40,000. Source: Dauphin County. Data is assumed to be accurate.

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February Editor’s Note

Every month, I fret about the weather.

My anxiety begins around the middle of the month, when I first look at the long-range forecast. I’m checking the prediction for 10 days ahead, when we do our big delivery—20,000 or so print copies sent to hundreds of drop-off locations in seven counties around the midstate.

If all looks good (preferably warm and dry), I breathe a sigh of relief and declare all systems go. If the forecast is bad, I may need to adjust the plan. This causes a cascading problem for our staff, our printer and our drivers, who all need to make changes on the fly.

When I started TheBurg, I didn’t realize that one of my greatest concerns each month would be the weather. I guess I can add that to my long list of unforeseen challenges in what I call “the monthly miracle”—producing TheBurg and getting it out on the streets like clockwork, every month for over 13 years.

I mention it this month because February always rises to the top of my weather worries.

Statistically, this is the Harrisburg area’s snowiest month. With the delivery of the February issue, we’re in the heart of mid-winter, smack-dab in the season of snow, ice, wind and cold.

Now, we’ve delivered in some terrible rain and windstorms. But winter weather is another matter entirely. So, here’s hoping the February issue reaches you on time, in perfectly dry condition, on or just before Feb. 1. And if Mother Nature turns against us, don’t worry—we’ll be at your favorite pickup spot soon!

I do hope you’ll grab a copy this month, as you’ll find a wide variety of community news, features, profiles and events. Each February, we pay special honor to our area’s wonderfully rich Black history and culture, so those stories, in particular, are not to be missed.

Lastly, mid-winter reminds me that TheBurg is extremely fortunate to have such an excellent, dedicated and reliable delivery team. Their names aren’t usually in print or on our website, but, without them, we’d be in deep trouble indeed.

So, here’s to Kathy, Lance, Mike, Jenn, Suzanne and Hillary! If you see them making the rounds this month, give them a big “thanks”—and maybe even hold the door open for them. They’re an essential part of getting TheBurg into your hands each month, come rain, shine or snow.

Lawrance Binda
Co-Publisher/Editor-in-Chief

Click here to read the digital issue of TheBurg.

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Noodle Me This: Slurp down some hot ramen at Taste of Asia

Ramen “Stamina” soup

It’s almost as if we blinked, and it was gone.

In October 2019, New York transplants Nyunt and Than Win opened Tri Asian Taste at a busy corner of Trindle Road near Mechanicsburg, the long-time home of the beloved local institution, Chef Wong. Just as they were gaining momentum, COVID hit, causing the new restaurant to lose its footing at a crucial time, just as the public was catching on.

The Wins moved on, relocating to Harrisburg’s Broad Street Market, where they are benefitting from a built-in traffic base. Meanwhile, another team has taken over their old location. Chef Patrick Oo and manager Zaw Nang have reopened the restaurant as Taste of Asia.

Nang explains that they are leasing the restaurant for a year.

“We’ll see how it goes,” he said. “We kept the décor, but changed the menu a bit. We’re serving sushi, Thai and, most importantly, ramen. This is what we believe will bring people in the door.”

Nang and Oo, who, like the Wins, hail from New York, said that they picked Pennsylvania due to the similar climate. Like New York, our winters are long and cold and ideal for serving hot ramen.

“That’s our niche,” Nang said. “You see a lot of sushi and Thai places, but not much ramen here yet.”

As a boy in Myanmar, Chef Oo was introduced to cooking by his father, who specialized in Chinese and Indian cuisine. Oo moved to Singapore then came to the United States, where he worked in New York restaurants before moving to Mechanicsburg.

At Taste of Asia, Thai dishes include black pepper beef and Thai spicy basil, with chili, basil, garlic, onions, bamboo shoots and bell peppers in a brown sauce. Red, green and Panang curry dishes can be ordered with a choice of protein, as can a selection of fried rice dishes. The sushi selection includes familiar favorites like dynamite rolls, spicy rolls, California rolls and eel rolls.

But it’s the ramen that really stands out, with nine ramen bowls on the menu. According to Oo, the most popular so far has been the “stamina,” a rich, delicious, spicy, stick-to-your-ribs dish with chicken broth, garlic, pork belly and scallions, topped with a poached egg.

“We also sell a lot of coconut noodle ramen bowls,” he said.

Nang added that the partners settled on the menu after a great deal of deliberation.

“As a person who views things from an efficiency perspective, I felt like Thai dishes take too long,” he said. “You can’t prepare five in a row or three in a row, like you can ramen and sushi, respectively, but you just can’t ignore Thai. It’s 30% of our business.”

The partners also must deal with the same challenge that most businesses now face—a lack of staff.

“That’s the biggest challenge, to find personnel,” Nang said.

For now, the pair is using social media to advertise and is doing something a little different than the Wins, reaching out to area hotels and dropping off menus. They’ve also enlisted the services of Door Dash, Grubhub and Uber Eats. According to Nang, about 20% of sales are from online orders.

Rachel Bennett, who lives nearby, was watching with interest as a new sign was erected in front of the restaurant.

“I had been waiting to come here and just had the coconut ramen, which was delicious,” she said.

She and a companion also shared a shrimp roll.

“That, too, was good,” she said.

The Mechanicsburg resident said that she is new to the “ramen culture” and intends to return to try a “little bit of everything.”

Both Oo and Nang said that they are confident that business will continue to improve as the word gets out.

“Slowly, people are learning about it,” Oo said. “They like it, and they are returning. I’m enjoying talking to all of the customers and getting to know them, some who have spent some time in Asia.”

“They’ve enjoyed the food and said they will come back,” Nang added.

Taste of Asia is located at 5001 E. Trindle Rd., Mechanicsburg. For more information, visit their Facebook page.

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He’ll Take the High Road: Matt Flinchbaugh pours his years of experience into a new taproom, brewery

Matt Flinchbaugh is the consummate entrepreneur.

Some customers may know him from his electronic dog fence company, Pet Stop of Central PA. More may be familiar with Flinchy’s Restaurant, Bar and Deck, which, for years, has been a popular meeting and eating spot for locals. And still others know him as the owner of Home Slice, a popular pizzeria located in Mechanicsburg’s Walden community.

That would be a full plate for most people, but Flinchbaugh has embarked on yet another endeavor. In November, he opened the High Road Brewing Co. taproom on a prominent corner across from Home Slice.

“My better half told me that I wasn’t allowed to open any more businesses, so this wasn’t necessarily a ‘want,’ or something I was trying to do,” Flinchbaugh said. “It just happened. I knew how much of a draw a taproom would be for the community.”

The snug space, which has housed two taprooms previously, was practically turnkey, which was an attraction.

“We added televisions and painted a bit, but that was it,” Flinchbaugh said.

Community Hangout

Flinchbaugh plans to unveil a large brewery and restaurant for High Road later this year in Camp Hill. But, to start out, he opened this small taproom, which features IPAs, pilsners, lagers, stouts, etc., from a variety of area breweries.

“I’m working with Wolf’s Brewing Co. in Mechanicsburg, Al’s Pizza Boy Brewing Co. in Enola and Harrisburg-based Appalachian Brewing Co.,” Flinchbaugh said.

In addition, Yuengling is always available on tap, along with selections from Tröegs, some of which are seasonal, like Mad Elf and Blizzard of Hops.

Flinchbaugh also plans to use a one-barrel system as an experimental brewery.

“The one-barrel system enables us to get really creative with new beers and think outside the box,” Flinchbaugh said. “Plus, if we have a ‘whoops,’ it won’t be so painful.”

The taproom also offers Pennsylvania wines, seltzers, ciders and various cocktails made with local spirits from places like Dead Lightning in New Cumberland and Faber Distilling Co. in Trumbauersville. A popular cocktail is one that Flinchy’s denizens may recognize.

“The Orange Crush includes freshly squeezed orange juice, triple sec and soda,” Flinchbaugh said. “It’s our biggest seller during the summer.”

The menu currently offers small plates and shareables sourced from Flinchy’s and Home Slice.

The ultimate mission is to make High Road a community hangout, which, according to customer Matthew Dishner of Mechanicsburg, Flinchbaugh knows how to do.

“That was the purpose of having a corner establishment, but up until now, no one could quite hit it,” he said. “Matt had the perfect vision—a simple taproom for neighbors and the community located in a quiet, relaxed atmosphere where you can feel comfortable.”

One Big Family

Running several businesses during this time hasn’t been easy. Flinchbaugh, like most business owners, has suffered from the repercussions of the pandemic.

“2019 was my best year in business, which was followed by my worst,” he said. “My sales were down 50%, and I lost employees.”

Yet he felt the need to give back during that time, working with other restaurants to donate food to first responders and charities.

“We, as restaurateurs, are all one big family,” he said. “I learned that as we worked together for the Leukemia and Lymphoma Society in 2016, when restaurant employees chose a night to donate all of their tips to the cause.”

Brian Fertenbaugh, owner of Café Fresco in Harrisburg, said that he sees a bright future for High Road.

“Matt has a vast amount of experience in the industry and has proven to be a success at other locations, plus he’s always supportive of the community. So, I understand why Mechanicsburg is welcoming him with open arms,” Fertenbaugh said. “He’s also proven that he can add a lot of variety and taste to Walden. So, I think everyone will recognize what a valuable asset this is for all of the residents.”

Flinchbaugh’s ambitions for High Road go far beyond the small taproom in Walden.

Later in 2022, he plans to open a brewery and restaurant in Camp Hill at a Smith Land location on Market Street. It will feature a menu with small plates and shareable foods with indoor dining on three levels, a two-sided bar with garage doors that will open into the restaurant, as well as a mezzanine on the third floor and outdoor dining.

“It’s going to be family-friendly, with fire pits outside and will seat 150,” Flinchbaugh said.

As for what his wife Lindsay thinks about the Camp Hill project, he chuckled.

“I told her I’m done after this,” he said.


The High Road Brewing Co. taproom is located at 146 Walden Way, Mechanicsburg. The future High Road Brewing Co. brewery and restaurant is slated to open later this year at 1801 Market St., Camp Hill. For more information, visit
www.highroadbrewco.com or their Facebook page.

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From Russia, with Song: The band Riodine makes music across cultures, generations

Members of Riodine

Music is a series of sounds artistically combined to create rhythms, harmonies and beats. Music becomes a song when vocalized lyrics and words are added.

Those are just some of the properties that help make music universal. And if music is universal, it possesses the power to transcend generations, bridge gaps and bring unique cultures together.

This is the story of Riodine and the blurring of the line that exists between the often-conflicting cultures of the United States and Russia.

Riodine is made up of two musicians of Russian descent and two musicians with roots firmly planted in America. Of the 10 songs on their debut album, “Practical Men,” nine are sung in Russian.

“If you take Johnny Cash—I wouldn’t call him a composer,” said Ed Kabatsky, the leader of Riodine and the glue that holds the band together. “But the people in Eastern Europe love the way his voice sounds, that low-key, country vibe. They don’t understand English, but they like what they hear, and they understand the message. If it’s well done, I don’t think it matters what language it’s recorded in. Music is universal.”

Kabatsky immigrated to the United States from the Soviet Union in 1989. Before moving to Camp Hill, Kabatsky made his home in Staten Island, N.Y., where his son, Nicholas, went to high school. Through his involvement in music there, he met the other future members of Riodine.

Nicholas and the other younger members of Riodine are all in their early 20s, a generation apart from the 50-year-old Kabatasky.

“I’ve been in multiple bands since the early 1990s,” said Kabatsky, who plays the guitar and piano and sings. “When we moved here, my son moved with us, but the other boys still live in New York. But they’re planning on coming here because they really, really love Pennsylvania.”

Emotional State

Last year, Riodine released two singles from their debut album, “Practical Men.” The full, 10-track album, which took about a year to produce and record, came out in December.

“It’s a unique collaboration, and it tells the story of a man who used to be very edgy and business-like,” said Kabatsky. “But he meets a girl and melts. It describes how his life is changed from being practical by falling in love.”

He describes the sound as indie or alternative rock.

“The music is absolutely beautiful, and it’s not repetitive,” he said. “It’s Pink Floyd-like, and certain songs might sound like the Red Hot Chili Peppers.”

More than a mere collection of songs, “Practical Men” takes the listener on a journey that features clearly defined beginnings, middles and ends.

“Usually, you go to some emotional state, maybe a happy mood, which you want to express through music,” said Kabatsky. “If you’re a musician, very often, it’s almost like meditation. Then you start to hear the melodies, they come to you. I have to go through different emotional states—it could be happy, it could be anger, it could be nostalgia. When you write down the notes, it becomes food for your mind.”

Breaking Barriers

Somewhat surprisingly, the musical stylings of the 20-something members of Riodine have been influenced by the harder rock music of the 1970s. It’s a genre that also greatly influenced the American and British bands that Kabatsky grew up with in Moscow in the 1980s.

“The musical exchange between the two countries (United States and Russia) is a lot wider than it ever was before,” Kabatsky said. “Now, there is hardly any difference between the Russian music scene and the one in the United States because of the internet. Russians are exposed to it more, and they follow it extremely closely. But I don’t think Russia has had the kind of influence on American music that America has had on Russian music.”

In that way, Riodine is breaking barriers, exploring new frontiers, creating a better understanding. Riodine’s second album, which will be recorded with all English lyrics, will take that mission a step further.

“Now that we’ve released a full album, we’re going to prepare for live shows and start performing around Harrisburg,” Kabatsky said. “We’ll be playing live, and we want to jump into a second album.”

That album, he said, will be a bit different.

“We all want to create something that’s more easy to understand,” he said. “Seeing the results is very inspiring, but we want to join the local music scene and see where it goes.”

When promoting something as universal as music, it can take you places you’ve never been before.

“For us, it’s all about the music and the message,” Kabatsky said.

For more information on Riodine, visit www.riodine.bandcamp.com or their Facebook page. “Practical Men” can be streamed on all major streaming platforms.

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Across Cultures, Genres: Congolese performer Emmanuel Nsingani speaks through his music

Emmanuel Nsingani

What is this beautiful sound streaming across the bar?

You look up and see Emmanuel Nsingani—his finger-picking, his earthy emotional voice that ranges from guttural lows to sobbing highs. The buzz in the bar softens as his music commands attention.

It’s not necessary to be a jazz lover to be pulled in by the lilting Afro-jazz fusion that Nsingani creates. It’s mesmerizing to both watch and hear.

While he throws in some covers, most of his music is his own. He writes and sings lyrics in his native Lari, a language from the Republic of Congo, where he was born.

Nsingani came to the United States in 2014, moving first to Raleigh, N.C. A friend later told him jobs were plentiful in the Harrisburg area, so he found work and has come to love it here.

Soon after arriving, Nsingani visited Guitar Center on Jonestown Road. He was drawn to the wall of bass guitars, but there was a problem. Someone else was already there, holding a bass, ready to try it out. Nsingani picked up a bass of his own, and the two strangers stood back to back, almost like a shootout.

“I thought in my head—when you go to try out an instrument, the last thing you want is someone making a racket around you,” said Andy Alonso, the stranger with his back to Nsingani. “We started playing at the same time. We immediately started playing complementary melodies at the same time.”

Nsingani was quiet. He finished playing, smiled, and put the guitar back on the wall. Alonso, a professional musician, said he stopped him, gave him his card, and told him to call if he ever wanted to jam. It took a few weeks, but eventually Nsingani called, and the two have been occasional collaborators ever since.

“It was like magic from the first time,” Alonso said.

Since then, Nsingani has been playing together with many local musicians. He has his own outfit, the Emmanuel Nsingani Band, which includes drummer Jordan Davis, Sam Brooks on sax and Connor Rohrer on keyboards. Prior to COVID, the group played together regularly at SpringGate Vineyard Estate outside Harrisburg.

Nsingani has played all over the region, including at River City Blues and H*MAC in Harrisburg, Fenicci’s in Hershey, Babe’s in Palmyra, as well as at Lancaster and York venues. He’s played festivals and events, was part of the 2021 Harrisburg Jazz Walk and won best jazz band honors in the Central Pennsylvania Music Awards, known as the local Grammys. He’s nominated again this year.

Although the pandemic halted live performances, Nsingani is slowly getting back out. He and Alonso will perform with drummer Jeff Stabley in early March at the Appell Center in York.

Alonso, of Annville, said that he often will write some progressions to start a conversation among the three of them.

“It’s a little bit of a roadmap,” he said. “The three of us take it wherever it’s going to go.”

All of Himself

Following in his father’s footsteps, Nsingani picked up the guitar at age 4.

He was self-taught, although he later learned to read music, as well. He plays guitar, bass, keyboards, some drums, and played cornet in a Salvation Army band. He’s been performing on a stage in front of crowds since he was 10.

While he will play pop, rock and R&B when performing with others, he writes and performs Afro-jazz music for himself.

“My Afro-jazz is a mix of the music that we grew up playing in our country, which has different ingredients mixed with the jazz that I’m learning in the U.S.,” Nsingani said.

That explains why he and Harrisburg native Shawan Rice fuse so well when they’ve played together. Rice, who is based out of New Orleans now, said that they’re “both playing Black American music inspired by everything from jazz to blues to funk to soul.”

“I feel he brings all of himself to the project,” Rice said of Nsingani.

The pair has performed together several times, including at Harrisburg’s Kipona festival and fundraisers in Lancaster.

Although Nsingani has written most of his music in Lari, crowds still connect.

“Music is spiritual, and it’s a language that does not have barriers,” he said.

Still, he would like people to understand his lyrics, which is why he is writing new music in English. One of the songs on his new CD will include “Daddy,” whose lyrics include:

“I cry every day when I think about you

Lost in my world where comfort is my guitar

Since you left, Daddy, my life has changed

Could you see from where you are

the man I have become

… Daddy …”

“I just realized how easily I write about what I’ve been through,” Nsingani said. “Unless I’m asked to write something about a particular thing, usually I’m a storyteller. I tell stories about where I lived.”

He finds his identity through singing in his native language, although he also speaks French, English and two other Congolese languages, Lingala and Ki Tuba.

“I’m a very shy person, and I think it’s only through music sometimes that I can express myself easily,” he said.

Alonso confirmed that Nsingani’s message comes through.

“He has that ability to capture an audience,” he said.

Nsingani sometimes sits in with Andy Alonso and Friends. But, Alonso said, Nsingani has too much to offer to stand in the background thumping on a bass.

“If you’re going to use him, use him to show off what he can do,” Alonso said. “Why hire Stevie Wonder if you’re going to have him tickle the ivories in the background for you? You want him front and center.”

For more information on Emmanuel Nsingani, visit his Facebook page and see videos of his performances on YouTube.

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The Painted Word: Yes, art is found on the walls—but there is so much more to Nyeusi Gallery

Artwork by KWATEI

In Midtown Harrisburg, a glamorous storefront looks almost like a Manhattan address, with Nyeusi boldly emblazoned above the entranceway.

Before they ever opened the doors last September, Nyeusi partners Dr. Dale Dangleben and Michelle Green shared that their gallery would be dedicated to the entire Harrisburg community in showcasing African and African American art—but there is so much more to their vision.

In fact, Nyeusi has become something of a nexus for the neighborhood. The gallery is a gathering place where ideas sprout and take root, growing in a garden nurtured with rich soil and tended with care by artists, writers and communicators.

Indeed, the art is just the tip of the iceberg.

During a recent 3rd in the Burg, the gallery was filled to capacity in hosting an HIV awareness event. Judging by the turnout alone, the symposium was energized, eclectic and enlightening. Nyeusi looks to do more of these community outreach programs with businesses in the coming year.

In addition, since its fall opening, Nyeusi has offered an ongoing “artist series,” with onsite personal appearances by various artists whose works are featured on the gallery’s walls. To date, this esteemed collective has included Stephanie Lewis, Steve Barber, KWATEI, Bryan “King Prolifik” Hickman and gallery curator, Green. The painter Chase Lawrence from the village of Calibishie in Dominica is represented as part of the Caribbean Collective at Nyeusi.

February will bring additional artist appearances, including, on Feb. 5, Michele Hairston, a painter from Philadelphia, and, on Feb. 19, artist-in-residence Michelle Green. Hickman starts the month of March on the first Saturday, slated to appear from 1 to 5 p.m.

“I decided to bring the artist series to Nyeusi Gallery as a way to showcase the artists as individuals and not just a part of a collective,” Green shared. “It gives the artist a chance to explain their work and give it a voice.”

The team has developed a gallery app that is available on Android and Apple stores under “Nyeusi Gallery.” In addition, look for details of upcoming events and behind-the-scenes looks at the media component of the gallery, which includes podcasts and more.

Another way of connecting with the community is through youth activities. Green is an accomplished chess player and has reached youngsters by giving lessons at the local Boys and Girls Club as well as engaging kids at the gallery, teaching them the intricacies of the game. Chess Club at the gallery reconvened in January. Painting parties are an opportunity to gather friends to create, and they have become regular calendar events. The plan is to continue to make a difference not only in the Black community but throughout the city.

Black History Month is a celebration of the legacy that came before, with an eye fixed on the future and to the leaders of tomorrow. The vision that Dangleben and Green shared has become a reality as it connects culture to community. They’re helping to write the next chapter of African American history locally, which promises to be as groundbreaking as their gallery.

The Nyeusi Gallery is located at 1224 N. 3rd St., Harrisburg. For more information, visit www.[email protected].

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Stuck in Neutral: A young woman ponders which road to take in Open Stage’s “The Mad Ones”

Samantha Brown sits in the driver’s seat of her friend’s old car, about to embark on the rest of her life, but she can’t seem to get out of the driveway.

This is not only literally how Open Stage’s musical production of “The Mad Ones,” directed by Stuart Landon, opens, but it also symbolizes the journey for its protagonist quite succinctly. The production boasts a beautiful run of songs and a phenomenal design team, with Nicholas Werner as musical director, MO Geiger as set designer, Tristan Stasiulis as lighting designer, and Jack Weitzel as costume designer.

Written by Kait Kerrigan and Bree Lowdermilk, “The Mad Ones” gets its name from Jack Kerouac’s “On The Road” (“The only people for me are the mad ones”), a book that Sam adores. The rest of the titular quote is explored throughout the play, as are themes such as love, fear and grief, all through the eyes of an anxious, straight-A student whose best friend has just died.

That best friend is Kelly. She’s the type of haphazard, party-it-up girl to shout, “Left or right?!” while driving on a road in heavy traffic and swerve at the last second, according to which direction Sam might call out. In a sad twist of irony, she has died from being struck by a car on her way home from the library. The resulting story is one that Sam tells in layers, past and present flowing interchangeably, filtering her memories through the lenses of what was, what could’ve been, and what might be.

Carly Lafferty plays Sam, and her three co-stars—Maggie Haynes as Kelly, Nik Olson as her boyfriend, Adam, and Rachel Landon as her overbearing mother, Beverly—give a breakdown of the conundrum that Sam has found herself in, at a loss for what to do with her life now that her favorite person is gone.

Lafferty, who plays Sam, describes herself as that same quirky, straight-laced girl in high school, recognizing Sam’s terrified realization that she doesn’t necessarily want the same things that everyone wants for her.

“That’s something that everyone can relate to, feeling drawn in one direction, but someone is telling them to go in another direction,” Lafferty said.

And the play uses grief as a catalyst for this emotional discovery, as Sam comes to terms with what is important in her life.

“We all think, as humans, we’re gonna live to be 100,” Haynes said. “But, unfortunately, that’s not always reality.”

Haynes’ process for finding Kelly’s character is particularly interesting, as the fact that Kelly has passed on means that she is really playing Sam’s memory of Kelly. Her takeaway?

“Everything’s temporary, until you let it not be. Sometimes, people and things leave you, but you can still keep them in your heart and your mind.”

And so, will Samantha Brown leave the driveway? That is something you’ll have to see for yourself.

“The Mad Ones” runs Feb. 12 to March 12 at Open Stage’s Capital Blue Cross Mainstage, 25 N. Court St., Harrisburg. For tickets, visit www.openstagehbg.com.

 

SPECIAL EVENTS AT OPEN STAGE


“The Mad Ones”

Feb. 12 to March 12 at 7:30 p.m.

Feb. 13 and March 6 at 3 p.m.


The Obstructed View

Feb. 5 at 8 p.m.


Harrisburg Black NewsBeat

with Dr. Kimeka Campbell

Feb. 9 and 23 at 8:30 p.m.


Court Street Cabaret

Feb. 18, 19, 25, and 26 at 9:30 p.m.


Legs Akimbo Presents

“The Heartbreak Cabaret”

Feb. 13 at 7 p.m.

 

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Orange You Hungry? Savor summery citrus this cold winter month

I often think of Sicily and our brief trip there back in 2010. The memory of its sun-drenched landscape and gorgeous blue seas will never leave me.

Sicily’s food is quite different from the red-sauced pasta of Italy’s southern mainland or the meat dishes of Umbria, Italy’s “green heart.” I savored the classic dishes I had in Sicily: pastas with swordfish and eggplant, pistachio and almond desserts, and most of all, the beautiful citrus fruits that grow in abundance there.

Many different cultures settled in this island paradise early in its history, and their influence can be found in Sicily’s cuisine today. Citrus fruits play a prominent role in Sicilian cooking, in salads, beef stews, seafood, marmalades and jams and sweets such as cannoli. We can credit the Arabs for that, along with a popular method of food preparation called agro dolce or “sweet and sour.”

Every year around this time, I become tired of mushy blueberries, tasteless melon and plastic container strawberries that taste like erasers. But citrus fruits are in their glory, piled high on grocery store and farm market tables—beautiful navel oranges, honey bells, tangerines, mandarins, white and pink grapefruit, and the newcomer for some of us, blood oranges. I have become enamored of Meyer lemons, which I have discovered at my farmers market. They are plump, thin-skinned, juicy, sweet and wonderful for any recipe calling for lemon.

One of my favorite citrus recipes to make during this gloomy time of year is a Sicilian orange salad. I usually make it for brunch, but I’m thinking it would pair nicely with a fish entrée, as well. The version I make is a rather unexpected mix of ingredients at first glance, but they work surprisingly well together. If you want to give it a try, here are a few important tips:

  • Use small red onions rather than large ones. They should be sweeter.
  • Italians use oil-cured black olives in this salad. If you can’t find them or don’t like them, you can substitute other Mediterranean black olives.
  • When peeling oranges, remove all the white “pith” underneath the skin as it is very bitter. Slice them shortly before serving.
  • As with any recipe, use high-quality ingredients—fresh, juicy oranges and very good olive oil.

 

Sicilian Orange Salad

Ingredients

  • 6 large navel oranges
  • 1 or 2 small red onions, very thinly sliced, crosswise
  • ½ cup oil-cured or other black Mediterranean olives
  • ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
  • ¼ cup good extra virgin olive oil (more, if desired)
  • Salt to taste

Directions

  • Using a sharp knife, peel the oranges and remove all the white pith under the skin.
  • Slice the onions crosswise, about ¼ inch thick.
  • Arrange the oranges on a pretty platter.
  • Scatter the onion slices, olives and red pepper over the oranges and drizzle the olive oil on top.
  • Season very lightly with salt.
  • Serve at room temperature.

This salad is as colorful as the island of Sicily itself. You can have a lot of fun with it by adding or substituting the following:

  • Thinly slice a fennel bulb, tops removed, and substitute the slices for the onion.
  • Drizzle with a fruit-based vinegar along with the olive oil. (Williams and Sonoma has a wonderful collection of fruit and white balsamic vinegar blends.)
  • Scatter some chopped nuts on top. (Pistachios are very Sicilian!)
  • Crumbled goat cheese, blue cheese or Stilton cheese add a savory touch.
  • Chopped mint adds lovely color.
  • Substitute sliced blood oranges for some of the navel slices.

Celebrate Sicily this cold winter month. Enjoy the color and unexpected edge of Sicilian food. Try making a nice caponata from that eggplant you usually pass by at the store. Simmer some swordfish steaks with tomatoes, onions and capers. Try making a lemon or orange tart for dessert. And grab that forgotten bottle of limoncello liqueur out of the freezer!

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