“I have mah jongg.”
Susan Wennerstrom is matter of fact about announcing a win.
“It is flower, flower, flower, flower, dragon, dragon, dragon, NEWS”—that’s the North, South, East and West winds—“and dragon, dragon, dragon,” she explained, of her combination of tiles aligned with a National Mah Jongg League official hand.
In NMJL American mah jongg, there are 55 possible hands, compiled by—well, we won’t get into the mah jongg rules. It’s a relatively straightforward tile game of teaming suits and patterns but, as in baseball, there are exceptions to every rule.
And that might explain its surge in popularity. Players say, first, that they enjoy the camaraderie and socializing (thank you, pandemic). But second, they love the intrigue and the mental challenge presented by a game staked on strategy, quick thinking and luck.
Coolest People
Is it rummy? Yes and no. Is it poker? Yes and no.
Mah jongg originated in China. That much we know, but otherwise, it either has origins in royalty, or the military, or ordinary folks playing a table game, substituting cards with tiles.
A staple of Asian, Southern and Jewish gatherings for decades, mah jongg first gained traction in the U.S. in the early 20th century.
Today, it seems to be everywhere. Harrisburg-area players—mostly but not exclusively women—include a foursome at the Camp Hill borough community room on a brisk Tuesday morning. The players, not rookies but still learning, lauded the friendships and connections they were forming.
“For me, it’s the people,” said Mary Soderberg, who was fascinated by mah jongg-playing Chinese women when she lived in the Philippines. “I came here the first time and thought, ‘This is it.’”
Danielle Baumgardner leads the Camp Hill group. She and her husband discovered mah jongg last year. They each played two seats—a great way to learn strategy, she said—and founded the 717 Mahj Circle to teach and play. When they hang a mah jongg flag outside their Camp Hill home, neighbors know that the game is on.
“When you’re playing this game, your mind is nowhere else,” said Baumgardner, a new mom.
Comparisons to rummy come up often, but assiduous rummy players can be kneecapped by mah jongg’s ban on mixing suits within number groupings, said Baumgardner.
“It’s going into the fresh mindset,” said player Robin Jones. “It’s a lot of strategy. For every rule, there’s a caveat. You have to be open-minded to accepting this new way of envisioning the board.”
And, she added, “We’ve met the coolest people.”
Luck & Skill
Mah jongg engages the senses. The clack of the tiles and their cool feel in the hand. The designs as basic as red and black Chinese characters or as ornate as flowers, dragons and bamboo in bright colors. There’s even the satisfaction of saying “bam” and “crak”—mah jongg shorthand for the bamboo and numbered suits—when discarding a tile.
The National Mah Jongg League, founded in 1937 to standardize the rules, is one way to start playing American mah jongg. Every spring, they issue new combinations for reaching mah jongg.
As with other games blending luck and skill, learning strategy takes time.
“That’s a really big moment in your development, when you start thinking defensively,” said Baumgardner.
The game is popular in the South, and Katy Krevsky’s mother was a Florida snowbird who brought the game back to Harrisburg. That was 26 years ago. Krevsky and her childhood friend, Meg Makuch, have been playing ever since.
They launched their teaching and playing group, the Mah Jongg Besties, when they noticed the buzz around mah jongg. They donate the proceeds to Nouri’s Place, the nonprofit striving to create a space that supports socialization and resources for people of all abilities and their families.
“We volunteer for all of the events that they have, whether it’s a golf outing or something happening on World Down Syndrome Day at Ever Grain Brewing, and it felt natural that we would give back in this way and make it really fun,” said Krevsky, mother of a daughter with Down Syndrome. “It’s great for the community and great for individuals who are coming together and forming friendships.”
Social media is positioning mah jongg as a game for all generations and not just retirees, said Makuch.
“It’s becoming cool again, and there’s the aesthetic,” she said over Krevsky’s vibrant pink and purple set, laid out on a Nour coffee shop table. “There’s this beautiful set. It’s like an alternative to book club. It’s just an excuse for women to get together, forming friendships, and there are the benefits for memory and focus. We’ve heard people saying they’re doing this to help fight off Alzheimer’s.”
Added Krevsky, “It’s like a three-hour time of our week when my phone isn’t out, and I just have a break. It’s nice to take a step away and be present in what you’re doing.”
Not that competition doesn’t matter, added Makuch. “It’s fun to win at something. You get the surge of adrenaline if you know you’re about to win and you’re one tile away.”
Oh, and mah jongg? Mahjong? Mahjongg? The Mah Jongg Besties adhere to tradition, said Krevsky, “but honestly, we call it ‘mahj.’” (For the record, the Associated Press Stylebook doesn’t specify, so TheBurg chose the National Mah Jongg League spelling.)
The pair checked off a bucket-list item when they headed to New York last summer, summoning the courage to play in the famous Bryant Park sessions.
“Talk about meeting people,” said Krevsky.
“Before the game started, there was music, a Broadway review,” said Makuch. “We met people from everywhere.”
In Play
When Elizabeth Kaminer lived in San Francisco, she could almost hear the clicking of mah jongg tiles in Amy Tan novels and thought, “I need to learn this game.”
Certified to teach by Oh My Mahjong, Kaminer taught in Florida and New York before continuing on her return to Pennsylvania. On a Monday morning in the classroom studio of Half Moon Handwerks, the Camp Hill quilting shop, she guides her students in discarding, accepting, and “exposing,” or showing, tile groupings to the table.
“9 bam,” a player will say, discarding a 9 tile in the bamboo suit. “North,” the next one says, discarding one of the four winds. Players who might want a discarded tile can ask to pause the play before deciding, but once it’s officially discarded, that tile is out of circulation.
“The nice thing about playing mah jongg versus other games is that you’re not responsible for anybody else’s happiness,” Kaminer said. “If you have a good day, good for you. If you have a bad day, even better, because I may have a chance to beat you.”
Half Moon Handwerks owner Debra Bender opens her sewing classroom to Kaminer’s mah jongg lessons because “quilters and mah jongg sort of go together.”
“I wanted that fellowship, that camaraderie,” she said. “Like Elizabeth said, you’re not responsible for anyone else, but you need that connection. We get so caught up in deadlines and everything else that we don’t take time for ourselves.”
Amid the clacking of tiles, Susan Wennerstrom called mah jongg “a nice way to spend time with other people and do something that’s good for your brain.”
Her tablemate, Bridget Brown, said, “You have to think in multiple directions, and for me, that’s exactly what I need.”
Norine Haertsch played 20 years ago, when she lived in Florida, and got back into the game when she found Kaminer’s classes.
“I get lost in it,” she said. “It’s one game I can enjoy.”
For Kaminer, it “all boils down to community.”
“We just want to be together and have something to do,” she said. “They figured out how good it is for your brain because it’s memory, it’s strategy, and it’s fun and social, unlike COVID, when everybody was sitting at home by themselves.”
Printing the rules of mah jongg would “take up the whole TheBurg magazine,” said Makuch, but Krevsky emphasized that the rules and endless learning are half the fun.
“That’s the challenge,” she said. “It’s the structure. Of course, it’s about getting together with your girlfriends, but there’s something to be said about being involved in a game or a sport or an event or a hobby that excites you to play and that also includes all the rules and just the fun of actually playing, in addition to the fact that I get to see my girlfriends once a week.”
Where to Mah Jongg
Check out the following local groups for lessons and open play:
Mah Jongg Besties, Facebook and Instagram, themahjonggbesties
The Mah Jongg Club PA, themahjonggclubpa.com, Instagram, themahjonggclubpa
The 717 Mahj Circle, Facebook and Instagram, the717mahjcircle
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