Wine-lovers—does this sound familiar?
You drive out to a vineyard, passing through scenic vistas and quaint towns. Through your car window, you spy old Victorians, a few antique shops, maybe a farmers market. It all looks so interesting—but then you never set foot outside the winery.
Stop that!
PA wineries make for fabulous daytrips, but most are also near villages, towns and historic sites that will bring even more enjoyment to your excursion.
Recently, I took my own advice and, with my wife, drove to a few spots along the Susquehanna Heartland Wine Trail, vowing to make the most of both the wine tastings and the surroundings. What I found enriched my trip, turning a simple wine outing into an adventure.
Symbiotic
We started our journey traveling north on Routes 11/15 along the Susquehanna River towards Sunbury, stopping at the Spyglass Ridge Winery, a few miles outside of town.
Owners Tom and Tammy Webb have what might be called a symbiotic relationship with Sunbury. Some people head for the winery, then visit Sunbury afterwards. Other times, it’s the other way around.
Sunbury boasts many things to do. It’s the site of the Joseph Priestly home, named for the 18th-century theologian credited with discovering the element of oxygen. Speaking of science, Sunbury is where Thomas Edison first tested the electric light bulb. If Colonial history is your thing, you can visit Fort Augusta, one of the most important forts in Pennsylvania during the French and Indian War.
The winery also benefits from its proximity to Knoebels amusement park, which generates more visitors.
For its part, Spyglass Ridge hosts major concerts—rockers Joan Jett, Foghat, Huey Lewis and Styx have performed—that bring thousands of people into the area.
“In an effort to be more interesting to our customers, we are building a brewpub with a restaurant and will even be adding a bocce ball court,” said Tom Webb.
Ground Up
Next, we traveled a quick 20 minutes north along Route 15 to the Fero Vineyards & Winery, operated by Chuck and Daneen Zaleski. The winery is on land farmed by several generations of Daneen’s family and overlooks the borough of Lewisburg.
“We began from the ground up,” Chuck said. “First, we tested and retested the soil to determine its exact chemical content. Then we searched for the types of grapes to fit our soil, weather and climate conditions. You must have really good grapes to make really good wines. We’re proud to be known for our quality Pennsylvania dry wines.”
When I was there, business was brisk, and, according to Chuck, plans are afoot for a larger building for receptions and events, as well as a bigger area to triple production.
“Eventually, we hope to pass the winery to our children,” said Daneen.
When visiting, a side trip to Lewisburg is a must. The borough’s 19th-century downtown was recently placed on the National Register of Historic Places, and the Chamberlin Iron Front Building and the Reading Railroad Freight Station are both worth a look. Lewisburg, home to Bucknell University, also has a charming, college-town feel. Many of the Zaleskis’ customers migrate up to the winery after some antiquing.
My wife and I stopped in at the Lewisburg Hotel, first opened in 1834. It closed in 1992 and, over the next five years, new owners went to great lengths to return the building to its original grandeur. It reopened in 1997 with six well-appointed rooms on the upper floors and 16 rooms surrounding a courtyard in the adjoining motel.
“Some interesting stories have surfaced in the hotel,” manager Dale Walize said. “Some say it’s haunted. Our staff claims to have experienced the ‘Lady in Red’ on the second floor. They have named her Scarlet. Others report to have seen a male ghost on the third floor they call Mr. Wilson.”
There have been three groups of ghost hunters who have toured the hotel.
“I’m not sure about these claims of ghosts, but I know that, if the spirits are here, they’re friendly,” Walize said.
For a lovely walk in town, turn left from the front door of the hotel and stroll two blocks to the river, then turn right on Water Street. You can follow St. Louis Street to see the mansions of the local barons, who ran numerous banks in the 19th century.
We elected to eat at Elizabeth’s Bistro and were glad we did. The wine list is extensive and includes some tasty selections from Fero Winery.
“John, Liz’s husband, is a wine geek,” manager Ron Ott said. “He will sample the wine, talk to the vintner, then buy several bottles for Melissa, the chef, and Liz to determine how it fits with our menu of seasonal, regional and ethnic food.”
The atmosphere is friendly, the staff efficient, and the food excellent. Together with the homemade breads and tasty wine, we had an outstanding meal.
Whirlwind Year
After Lewisburg, we took a short drive over to Shade Mountain Winery. Karl and Carolyn Zimmerman turned their farm into a winery in 1999. The tasting room is located in an 18th-century bank barn and has a deck overlooking the vineyard.
“We are located on Route 104, a scenic alternative to Routes 11/15 and 322,” said daughter Jenny Zimmerman. “This enables us to attract many new customers who travel to Penn State and other getaway spots located north and west of here.”
They are partnering with the Rusty Rail, a new brewery and restaurant in Mifflinburg, a nearby historic town that made a name for itself as a center for buggy production in the 19th century. At the Rusty Rail, you can eat a good meal and enjoy Shade Mountain wine, in addition to the brewery’s craft beer. You can even view several beautifully restored buggies, as the massive building started life as a coach factory.
We left Shade Mountain and headed south on Route 104 until it joined Route 11/15. Then it was just a short ride along the Susquehanna River until we reached the Winery at Hunters Valley.
Driving up the lane to the winery, we were treated to a stunning view of the Susquehanna River Valley and Millersburg. At this point in our journey, we paused to soak up the spectacular scenery.
The Williams family has owned the winery for what son Jamie describes as “one whirlwind year,” having bought it from founders Bill and Darlene Kvaternik.
“We offer 22 wines and are expanding the list each month,” he said. “We connect with our customers by attending festivals and other events.”
They are active locally by helping with fundraising for nonprofits. Jamie believes that the winery is part of the community, so feel a responsibility to help make life a little better in their area.
“We do get traffic from our local historical places,” Jamie said. “The Landis House in Newport and the Millersburg Ferry are two of the ones most often mentioned by customers.”
After relaxing at the winery, I recommend taking the Millersburg Ferry across the Susquehanna River. The ferry, on the National Register of Historic Places, is a wooden, double stern-wheel paddleboat and is believed to be the only one operating in the country.
In Millersburg, visit the Ned Smith Center and see the art displayed in two galleries. Ned Smith, a famed naturalist and artist, was born in Millersburg in 1919 and drew and painted wildlife nearly his entire life. In addition to viewing his work, you can explore trails and see the work of other artists. The center also has an outdoor amphitheater for plays and other entertainment.
Still Growing
Our final stop took us a few miles downriver to Armstrong Valley Winery, which is outside of Halifax. The winery sits on the oldest farm in the area, established in 1769 by Robert Armstrong.
Owners Jake Gruver and Dean Miller bought the property in 2005, and, at first, didn’t intend to open a winery. ”
“That was kind of an afterthought,” said Miller.
Five years later, they are still growing. They’re building a new processing room and expanding the downstairs tasting room to gain more space. They participate in festivals that are within an hour’s drive and host parties, weddings and other community events.
“These events are an indirect method of building customers,” Miller said. “We never imagined the response and support we would receive from our community. It’s been wonderful.”
And so ended a long day visiting wineries north of Harrisburg. Yes, I tasted some amazing local product, but perhaps more importantly, found something I didn’t expect. These wineries are building cooperative relationships with towns and attractions around them, creating an opportunity for wine tourists to come, have a drink and stay awhile.
GOING THERE
Armstrong Valley Vineyard and Winery
212 Rutter Rd., Halifax
717-896-7700
armstrongvalleywinery.com
Elizabeth’s: An American Bistro
412 Market St., Lewisburg
570-523-8088
elizabethsbistro.com
Fero Vineyards & Winery
965 JPM Rd., Lewisburg
570-568-0846
ferovineyards.com
The Lewisburg Hotel
136 Market St., Lewisburg
570-523-7800
lewisburghotel.com
Millersburg Ferry
333-339 River St., Millersburg
717-692-2442
millersburgferry.org
Ned Smith Center for Nature and Art
176 Water Company Rd., Millersburg
717-692-3699
nedsmithcenter.org
Northumberland County Historical Society
1150 N. Front St., Sunbury
570-286-4083
northumberlandcountyhistoricalsociety.org
Rusty Rail Brewing Co.
5 N. 8Th St. #1, Mifflinburg
570-966-7878
rustyrailbrewing.com
Shade Mountain Winery
16140 PA-104, Middleburg
570-837-3644
shademountainwinery.com
Spyglass Ridge Winery
105 Carroll Rd. Sunbury
570-286-9911
spyglassridgewinery.com
The Winery at Hunters Valley
3 Orchard Rd, Liverpool
717-444-7211
huntersvalleywines.com
