In the world of wine, the French region of Bordeaux is usually associated with the pinnacle of all things that involve turning a grape into a bottle of pleasure. This is where, arguably, the best (and, certainly, the most expensive) wines on Earth are made. From the Middle Ages, when Bordeaux wines were known as “claret,” to modern times, demand has outstripped supply.
Much of this was due to the fact that the Bordelaise were master wine blenders. They had six different grapes at their disposal: the noble Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, as well as the lesser Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot, Malbec and Carmenere. At harvest, each grape was made into wine and then blended to maintain each chateau’s style and quality.
In 1855, Emperor Napoleon III ordered the classification of the Bordeaux vineyards by price and quality. This coincided with the Paris Exposition of the same year. Now, thousands of visitors to the French capital had the world’s best wine available to them with a system to rate each one. Heady times indeed.
Bordeaux vines also had been imported to the Americas, where they were planted in places such as California’s Napa Valley and Chile’s Santiago region, bringing the New World into the modern age. Then the unthinkable occurred.
In 1863, the phylloxera aphid was discovered in the Gallic vineyards, a nasty insect that came over from America. There was no defense and, by 1870, the grapes had withered and died. Gradually, it was discovered that the European vinifera could be grafted to American rootstock, which was impervious to the grape louse. The growers set about making the great conversion, which took many years. Eventually, the great regions of France returned to their former glory, and Bordeaux once again became the top of the wine pyramid. Only, this time, the blenders had but five grapes. Carmenere had vanished.
Bordeaux and Napa both became powerhouses with quality and personality that developed markets in every corner of the globe. Chile has made good wine for decades but never developed the following of France or California.
In 1994, wine expert Jean Michel Boursiquot was invited to the Apalta Valley in Chile to examine some odd Merlot. After DNA testing, the grape in question was found to be Carmenere. Overnight, thousands of acres of grapes were of a variety that had been missing for more than 100 years.
Some growers and vintners took this news and made the once-extinct grape into their signature quaff. Carmenere is lighter than Cabernet or Merlot. If not fully ripe, the wine has a tendency to taste vegetal. When done right, it is a smooth, dark wine, with unique spicy aromas and deep flavors. Because the tannins are not heavy, it is a food-friendly wine that matches well with grilled meats and Indian cuisine.
This wine is a survivor. It is the culmination of accidents and decisions that have brought us to a new, unique place in wine history.
Keep sipping, Steve.
Apaltagua Rose Carmenere Chile Reserva 2013
Code 80255
A somewhat non-traditional use of the Carménère grape, this rose shows some tart fruit flavors as well as raspberry and rose petal notes. It is the perfect choice when serving Asian or spicy food.
$10.99
Marques de Concha Carmenere Rapel 2012
Code 72404
Jackie Spironello, South American Wine Buyer, loves this wine for its black ripe fruit, spicy black pepper and hint of chocolate. Pair it with roasted meats, cheeses and rich red sauce. 90 points Wine Spectator May 2014.
$21.99
Santa Rita Pehuen Carmenere 2008
Code 33540
Wine Specialist Mark Wolf calls this a “big, bold wine that drinks well now with a bit of decanting,” and notes its 91-pt score from both Wine Enthusiast and Wine Advocate.
$19.99
