Tag Archives: Bricco

Your Table Is Ready: A unique dining experience (and maybe a few new friends) awaits at Table at Bricco.

Screenshot 2014-04-30 10.20.23Do you think Harrisburg will support a . . . wine bar, upscale restaurant, French bistro, nice pasta joint, gourmet café?

I’m asked this question each time something new opens, something better or different than this city has seen before.

The answer usually is “yes,” as food establishments here, as long as they’re good and well run, seem to gain a reputation and a following.

So, I expect to be asked this same question when word hits about Table at Bricco, the newest concept from the enterprising folks at one of Harrisburg’s finest Italian restaurants.

This month, Executive Chef Jason Viscount opens the door to the small storefront that once housed another Bricco creation, the greatly missed Olewine’s Meat & Cheese House.

A huge, 13-by-3-foot mahogany table (the “Table”) now dominates the tight space, around which 14 lucky people will share a dining experience that may be unmatched in the Harrisburg area.

“I wanted to offer an experience that’s more upscale than Bricco,” said Viscount. “I wanted to do something to really showcase the talent that we have here.”

Originally, he wanted diners to watch him cook right in front of them. However, the space proved too small for that, so he tweaked the concept.

The seven-course dinner now will be prepared in Bricco’s second kitchen, with Viscount himself doing much of the cooking. The night’s prix fixe menu will be set less than a week before, based upon his knowledge of that week’s freshest, most desirable local meats, dairy and produce.

In other words, before making a reservation, you should be comfortable trusting the culinary judgment of one of Harrisburg’s top chefs as opposed to, well, yourself.

“If I make my menu any earlier, I won’t be able to get freshest available,” he said.

So far, plenty of people have decided to put their evening into his hands, as, just by word of mouth, spots were filling up quickly for the dinners, which start May 3 and 4 and run every Friday and Saturday night thereafter.

Décor-wise, Viscount decided to stick with his original concept of making the dining room feel like an extension of the kitchen. So, the room will feature a menu board that you might find in a restaurant kitchen, a wall of wine crates and bottles and a funky, custom-made chandelier adorned with kitchen equipment, such as pots, pans and spoons.

Though, once the dinner starts, you may forget about your surroundings and lose yourself in the food, the company and the conversation, as you’ll likely be sharing your meal with at least a few strangers, unless you’re able to assemble a party to take all 14 seats.

The communal table is another part of the concept that Bricco is introducing. It has gained traction in larger cities but is relatively unknown in Harrisburg, particularly for high-end dining.

“There is nothing in central PA like this,” Viscount said.

He expects the seven-course meal to average $78 per person excluding taxes, tip and drinks. While pricey for Harrisburg, similar concepts in larger cities are actually much more expensive, especially when accounting for the amount and quality of food, as well as the personal service, offered by Table at Bricco, he said.

Drawing on his years in Harrisburg, Viscount believes there is a market here for such a unique, upscale dining experience.

“Based upon my conversations with people, there seems to be a huge interest in it,” he said. “It’s meant to be a food adventure. It’s all part of the experience and the fun.”

Find out more about Table at Bricco and make a reservation by calling 717-724-0222 or visiting www.briccopa.com.

 

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Opt for Squash: Choices abound for the versatile zucchini.

rosemary_homecookingAs I’ve noted before in this column, I am (or was) a terrible home vegetable gardener.

This is not good for someone who’s 100 percent Italian. Italians are known for loving to garden and, while I certainly gave it my best shot, I wasn’t very successful. The tomatoes got blossom-end rot, my pepper plants were host to swarms of aphids and my arugula went to seed before I could harvest it. So, I have never seen myself taking my last breath in a lush garden of beautiful red tomatoes like Marlon Brando in “The Godfather.”

There was one exception: zucchini. Not only did my zucchini bushes produce prolifically but so did those of my dear departed Aunt May and those of our gardening friends. Coming to dinner? Bring some zucchini for the host. And, if the summer season had seen abundant rainfall, the zucchinis grew to the size of baseball bats. (I suppose they still do and I advise you to avoid these if you can.)

Italians love their vegetables (verdure), and they do wonderful things with them. Zucchini, or courgette in Italian, are no exception. They marinate them for the antipasti table, stew and sauté them and stuff them with everything from mashed potatoes to sausage, cheese and breadcrumbs. But most fascinating of all is the Italian custom of stuffing golden zucchini blossoms with ricotta cheese and deep-frying them for a unique first course.

When I shop for zucchini in the summer months, I always look for those that are small and bright green.  These young specimens have few seeds, are less fibrous and draw out less water when cooked. One of my favorite zucchini dishes is a casserole that layers thinly sliced zucchini rounds that have been lightly dusted with flour and sautéed. They are layered with halved cherry tomatoes, Parmesan cheese, olive oil, chopped basil and dried breadcrumbs. The casserole is baked until bubbling and served hot or at room temperature. It is a great accompaniment to grilled chicken or steak.

You might not think of zucchini as a topping for pasta, but its rather mild flavor combines so well with many other ingredients for a light warm weather “sauce.” A recent dish at Bricco on S. 3rd Street in Harrisburg combined homemade “rope” pasta with small, sliced zucchini, chunks of smoky bacon and lots of olive oil. It was different and delicious.

Spaghetti Carbonara is a familiar and popular Italian pasta dish, but one that is considered quite rich when made with the traditional bacon, eggs and cream. The following recipe, saved from my collection of old Food and Wine magazines, offers a nice twist on an old favorite—and it is easy. The cream is gone, the eggs remain, and zucchini replaces the bacon.

Spaghetti Carbonara with Zucchini

  • Sauté 2 whole garlic cloves and 5 tablespoons of olive oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Remove the garlic when golden.
  • Cut 1 pound of small to medium-small zucchini into thin rounds. Add the zucchini slices to the oil remaining in the skillet and sauté them until golden brown, about 15 minutes. If the zucchini starts to draw liquid, turn up the heat until it evaporates. (Do not rush this step.) Then remove the skillet from the heat.
  • In a large bowl, whisk together 2 large eggs and ¾ cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese until well blended.
  • Cook 12-16 ounces spaghetti according to package directions and drain.
  • Place the cooked pasta in the bowl with the eggs and toss well. (The heat from the pasta will cook the eggs.)
  • Add the zucchini and a handful of chopped fresh basil. (Zucchini and basil pair beautifully.)
  • Add some salt and pepper if you like and perhaps extra Parmesan, and you are done!

I like to serve a pasta dish like this with a platter of cold, thickly sliced ripe tomatoes drizzled with olive oil and red wine vinegar. Tomatoes and zucchini: there’s no more “Italian” than that.

Now, I must be honest. If one of those “baseball bat zucchini” should make its way to your kitchen, you don’t need to relegate it to the compost pile. Try grating it for spicy zucchini bread, a filling for omelets or perhaps putting it in minestrone soup. Italians are very good at finding a use for everything, even 3-pound zucchini!

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An Al Fresco Favorite: steak Florentine & panzanella salad, the perfect dish for the perfect summer day.

TheBurg_MQI know Harrisburg isn’t Italy.

But every time we drive down and around city streets on summer evenings, I see scores of people dining outside at our many pubs and bistros. Everywhere you look, large and small tables line sidewalks, often in tight spaces or corralled behind fencing and barricades to allow walkers to pass by. And I am always reminded of the small towns of Umbria and Sicily where almost all the trattorias offer al fresco dining.

Harrisburg’s outdoor dining scene seems to lend a sense of vitality and fun to our little city, especially on a beautiful day. From busy 2nd Street with old favorites like Stocks, The Red Door, Café Fresco and the Hilton Courtyard to Bricco’s cozy spot at 3rd and Chestnut, diners enjoy happy hour cocktails, appetizers and dinner. Newcomer, Federal Taphouse, has gotten into the act and added outside tables to its bustling venue. And even tiny Alvaro’s, quietly serving wonderful pasta on Friday and Saturday nights, has placed a few wrought iron tables on their Green Street corner. At Carley’s on Locust Street, the entire front wall opens to the sidewalk, and a piano player croons to evening patrons. Home 231 boasts a backyard dining space canopied with lights where a strawberry Prosecco cocktail tastes sublime.

Al fresco dining is great at home, too. I have a tiny, screened porch at the back of my house, and, this year, I splurged on a table that actually seats more than two people comfortably. There is no wood oven scenting the night air, no jasmine covered arbor and no silvery olive trees in the backyard. Our wine comes from the state store and not from the vineyard over the next rolling hill. But it is a place where I start the day with coffee, end it with a glass of wine and eat meals whenever I can.

The recipes that follow make for wonderful end-of-summer al fresco dinners. Both dishes originate from Florence, or Firenze, the golden jewel of Tuscany. Both epitomize the best of summer foods: simply grilled beef and sun-ripened vegetables in a unique salad. Bistecca Fiorentina (or steak Florentine) is special to Tuscans, who eat beef often. The steak, enough to serve two, must be a large T-bone cut at least an inch or inch-and-a-half thick with a large tenderloin. The salad, called Panzanella, makes perfect use of leftover Italian bread. With a glass of chilled white wine and maybe some sliced sweet peaches, it’s all you need for a perfect dinner.

Steak Florentine and Panzanella Salad

For the steak:

  • In a small bowl, mix a few tablespoons of olive oil, a handful of chopped fresh herbs (use whatever you like such as rosemary, chives, oregano or parsley) and a tablespoon or two of minced garlic. Set aside.
  • With the grill on high heat, sear a large T-bone or Porterhouse steak, cut about 1½-inches thick and weighing about 1¾ pounds. (Order ahead from your favorite butcher.) Cook to desired doneness but know that, in Florence, the steak is served darkly seared on the outside and rare inside. Place the steak on a platter to rest for a few minutes and then top with the garlic and herb mixture.
  • Place the steak on a cutting board, garnish with Rosemary sprigs and serve.

For the panzanella (tomato bread salad)

  • Take a several-day-old Italian baguette and cut it into large cubes. Sprinkle the bread with water until it is thoroughly moistened and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain the bread and squeeze out as much water as possible.
  • Cut 3 ripe, red tomatoes into chunks and place in a second bowl along with a cubed and peeled cucumber and a diced medium red onion.
  • Add the drained bread and a handful of torn fresh basil leaves.
  • Drizzle good virgin olive oil over the mixture to moisten it, add salt and pepper to taste and a little minced garlic if you like.
  • Add several tablespoons of red wine vinegar and toss the salad again.
  • Serve at room temperature along with the steak.

This recipe is best made with the freshest and ripest tomatoes you can find, as well as homegrown, summer cucumbers. It’s also very flexible. You can add chopped celery or black olives or even anchovies.  And, if you add some chopped tuna, it can be a summer lunch.

So head out to your porch or patio with your steak and salad, place a vase of sunflowers on the table and pour a cold white wine. Enjoy the sights and sounds of August and your own Tuscan dinner.

And don’t forget to try Harrisburg’s outdoor eating venues too. The time for al fresco dining will be over far too soon.

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