Tag Archives: Bricco

The Millworks is set to reopen, with new air filtration system, pandemic measures in place

November 9, 2020 | by Lawrance Binda

The Millworks in Midtown Harrisburg

There’s a rare ray of light on the Harrisburg restaurant scene, as The Millworks plans to reopen on Wednesday.

Owner Josh Kesler said that the Midtown restaurant, brewery and art space would reopen for the first time since early July.

“We are doing our best to give our customers the full dining experience and a sense of normalcy in this strange time,’’ Kesler said. “As we go into the holiday season, brunches and gatherings are important, and we want to support those traditions safely.’’

The Millworks closed in March, along with many other businesses, after the COVID-19 pandemic struck. It reopened in June only to close again on July 8 after a worker tested positive for the virus.

Since then, The Millworks has invested some $10,000 in a new HVAC filtration system that removes airborne pathogens, Kesler said. Patrons also will have their temperatures taken at the door, staff will wear facemasks, and tables have been spaced apart to ensure greater distancing.

Kesler said that he is putting into practice some of the measures currently in place at The Watershed Pub, a new restaurant he opened last month in Camp Hill.

“We’ve learned a lot over the past couple months about how to protect our staff and customers,’’ Kesler said. “The Millworks is such a large space, we can seat the current maximum of 50 percent and still exceed the state’s social distance guidelines.’’

The re-opening of the 24,000-square-foot Millworks will put about 50 staff members back to work, Kesler said.

The Millworks’ reopening is a rare bright spot in an otherwise bleak year for Harrisburg’s once vibrant and growing restaurant scene. Last week, Bricco, a pioneer of fine dining downtown, announced it would close on Nov. 21 after 14 years, saying that the pandemic made it impossible to continue in business.

“This has been a tough year, and I think it is important that friends and family have a way to get together in a safe, responsible way,’’ Kesler said. “We are committed to providing that experience at both The Millworks and The Watershed Pub.”

The Millworks is located at 340 Verbeke St., Harrisburg. For more information, call 717-695-4888 or visit www.TheMillworksHarrisburg.com. Due to pandemic-related seating restrictions, reservations are highly recommended.

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Pop-Up Pour: sip@soma debuts to share PA craft beverages with Harrisburg.

February 22, 2019 | by Lawrance Binda

The exterior of sip@soma on S. 3rd Street in Harrisburg

Don’t go to the beer. Let the beer come to you.

That’s the idea behind a new business that’s bringing in ales and stouts and sours from throughout craft brewery-rich Pennsylvania right to downtown Harrisburg. So, now, local beer-lovers can taste and sample and purchase without needing to venture all the way out to Erie or Easton or Philly.

sip@soma debuted last night with a soft opening at its storefront on S. 3^rd Street, featuring a dozen taps from Free Will Brewing Co.

What are the chances you’ll ever get to Free Will’s home brewery in Perkasie, Pa., a borough in Bucks County? Probably pretty small, but, thanks to sip@soma, you don’t have to.

“It’s so exciting to have these great producers from all over the commonwealth set up right here in downtown Harrisburg,” said Brad Jones, CEO of Harristown Enterprises, which is sponsoring the enterprise. “Pennsylvania is known for its great craft beer, and now you’ll be able to sample many of them from the tap right here.”

But it’s not just beer. sip@soma also plans to bring in Pennsylvania wines and spirits, all for limited engagements.

Right now, sip@soma is planning monthly events to coincide with 3rd in the Burg, Harrisburg’s arts and community celebration that takes place every third Friday of the month. In fact, Free Will Brewing will make a return visit for the March 15 3rd in the Burg. In addition, numerous events are planned for the 2019 Harrisburg Beer Week, which will run April 26 to May 5.

sip@soma’s snug tasting room features a small bar, 12 taps and just 20 seats, designed so that attendees can have an intimate experience, often with a chance to meet the brewer, vintner or distiller, Jones said.

A beer is poured at sip@soma.

Due to the limited seating, attendees must make reservations via free tickets.

Jones said that, besides introducing locals to these craft producers, it’s a chance for the brewers, vintners and distillers to get to know Harrisburg. His hope is that, once exposed to the Harrisburg market, they might be interested in a permanent spot in the city.

“We’re excited to introduce brewers and producers from around the state to the SoMa district—and vice versa,” said Sara Bozich, well-known local nightlife writer and CEO of Sara Bozich, an experiential marketing company, who is working with Harristown on sip@soma.

During events, customers can purchase beverages by the glass and packaged products to go. Vendors will use their state-provided exposition permits to sell in the space.

sip@soma will not sell food, but neighboring restaurants Bricco and El Sol will offer guests a small delivery menu.

Jones said that he hopes that sip@soma also will expose more people to the SoMa neighborhood and help create a critical mass of small shops in the newly restored storefronts along S. 3rd, Market and Chestnut streets.

“We believe this new tasting room will continue to create leasing opportunities for new boutiques and small businesses to occupy some of the available 1st-floor retail spaces in SoMa,” Jones said.

sip@soma is located at 13 S. 3rd St., Harrisburg. The next event is planned for March 15. For event updates and details, visit www.sarabozich.com and www.somaharrisburg.com.

Plate Class: Slice, dice and learn from some of our area’s top chefs.

April 30, 2018 | by Stephanie Kalina-Metzger

In my circle of friends, I’m the one who usually does the cooking.

That’s not a complaint, as chopping, tasting and experimenting all speak to my Zen, as long as I have sufficient time, that is. Another challenge is adding new dishes to the rotation. Time and time again, I seem to revert to the same old recipe rut.

This is when I start thinking about cooking classes to help me expand my repertoire. Fortunately, several of our area’s top chefs are ready to lend a hand, taking time out from their busy cooking lives to assist an amateur like me.

Cornerstone Cooking
Chuck LaPorta started out as a guest chef at the Cornerstone Coffeehouse and was so well received that he was asked to return often. By 2004, he was the chef-in-residence and has been conducting classes focused around a theme ever since.

For instance, “Relaxing in the Caribbean” might involve menu items like jerk chicken and island paella, and “Springtime in Paris” might be based on five different dishes that one might encounter in France.

For his day job, LaPorta oversees operations in the dietary department of Life Care Hospitals, so you can fairly say that working with food is his passion, an enthusiasm that shows in his classes.

“I’ve been cooking since I was 2 and even had an Easy-Bake Oven,” he said, with a laugh.
After each demonstration, LaPorta offers participants a sample of each of the various dishes that he creates.

“As we roll through the different dishes, everyone gets to eat very well and most people leave full,” he said.

The social aspect is a key part of the fun for LaPorta.

“I love the interaction, the laughing and joking around, watching people make new friendships and the fact that, for three hours, we all can step away from the craziness of the world and really enjoy the food,” he said.

The Cornerstone Coffeehouse is located at 2133 Market St., Camp Hill. To learn about upcoming classes, visit www.thecornerstonecoffeehouse.com/cooking.

A Visit to India
Leena Shenoy, owner of one of Harrisburg’s longest-operating restaurants, has been paving a path towards a greater understanding of India one cooking class at a time. In March, she conducted her 50th class at her Shipoke restaurant.

With the help of a large screen TV, guests observed some of the various techniques she uses to make dishes like fruit chaat, beans poriyal and lemon pepper chicken.

In between stirring and sautéing, Shenoy took the opportunity to share information on where to buy the various products that she uses, explaining how some of them can be beneficial to one’s health.

“In southern India, we believe that coconut is good for cholesterol and can also be used as a beauty treatment,” she said. “It’s good for hair and tightens your skin.”

Shenoy then held up mustard seed, touting its respective health benefits.

“Mustard seed is good for your system when ground into a paste and mixed with honey; it’s a good detox,” she said. “Turmeric is also good as an antibiotic and, when mixed with yogurt and honey, can be used as a facial mask.”

The businesswoman, who lived in New Delhi until the age of 15, offers an explanation why the Indian diet is healthy.

“There are no preservatives in India,” she said. “Vegetables are purchased fresh every day.”

To prove her point, she said that her father is 88 and still plays tennis.

“There is no fatty food, no heavy cream in India,” she said.

After Shenoy added the finishing touches to each dish, she invited the class up to the front table to take turns sampling each of the items while she answered questions, pausing once in a while to make a joke.

One person commented on the pan Shenoy was using.

“Rachael Ray said you should cook with a cast-iron skillet,” the guest said.

Shenoy had a ready response.

“Yes, well I’m not Rachael Ray,” she said. “I am Leena Shenoy and I don’t cook with EVOO [extra virgin olive oil] either,” and the crowd erupted in laughter.

This is yet another cooking class where no one leaves hungry. After the demonstration was over and the sampling finished, the class stepped up to the buffet to partake in a variety of dishes served at the restaurant.

Passage to India is located at 525 S. Front St., Harrisburg. To learn more about upcoming classes, visit www.passagetoindiaharrisburgpa.com.

Pasta Feast
Chef Bill Collier is nothing if not ambitious, taking on a crowd of 12 amateur cooks on a recent Saturday for a three-hour, hands-on pasta-making session that included about half-a-dozen types of pasta and as many dishes.

Collier, who has been working at Bricco for more than eight years, made it look easy as he demonstrated the various techniques involved in making the perfect pasta.

Participants were divided into groups of three, and each took a turn at the machine to crank out long sheets of pasta, which, in the end, would be transformed into pappardelle, cavatini, fettucine, garganelli, tortellini and ravioli.

Reminiscent of “Iron Chef,” minus the urgency, the group was instructed to “raid” the pantry and use their collective imagination to create unique dishes that would pair well with the pasta that they were assigned.

Cooks chose ingredients like black garlic, fiddlehead ferns, braised lamb, roasted spring onions, morel mushrooms, fresh sage and fist-sized scallions, to name just a few. Each then spent time at their respective stations chopping, mincing and slicing before following Collier into the kitchen to watch him transform the ingredients into a variety of dishes. These included cavatini with peas and lamb ragu and ravioli stuffed with mascarpone, sweet potatoes and brown sugar, topped with amaretto cookie crumbs. Afterwards, everyone reconvened in the adjacent dining room to take part in a carb feast fit for a king.

The effort and skill it took to make the various types of pasta was not lost on Jo Davidson who worked on the lamb cavatini dish with her husband Brad.

“I have more of an appreciation for eating pasta now,” said the Elizabethtown resident.

Bricco is located at 31 S. 3rd St., Harrisburg. To learn more about upcoming classes, visit www.briccopa.com.

So Much in SoMa: Downtown district prepares for its close-up.

August 29, 2017 | by Lawrance Binda

The heart of SoMa: S. 3rd Street between Market and Chestnut streets

What’s SoMa?

Even long-time residents may not know that SoMa stands for “South of Market,” a longstanding attempt to add some urban cool to a few square blocks of downtown Harrisburg.

Harristown Enterprises, which owns much of the area, is trying to add new energy to the decade-old branding and marketing effort. At the same time, it wants the public to see how far the once-blighted neighborhood has come.

“A lot has happened over the years,” said Brad Jones, Harristown president and CEO. “We want to show that off.”

To that end, the company recently installed new decorative banners, is stringing up lights across S. 3^rd Street and is throwing a big block party on Thursday night with music, food and drink. It’s a debut of sorts for an area with several newly renovated apartment buildings, offices, retail spaces and restaurants.

About 20 years ago, an Urban Land Institute study recommended focusing on these blocks as a special district for revitalization, as it was one of the few downtown areas that retained its historic character of small, attached commercial buildings.

In the early 2000s, that effort began in earnest with the creation of International House and Bricco restaurant. That was followed by Messiah College’s Harrisburg Institute, the renovation of several buildings into student housing for Harrisburg University, the repurposing of a few old buildings into high-end apartments and the construction of the Blackberry Technology Center from a long-empty, dilapidated former hardware store, among other projects.

Jones estimates that, over the years, about $20 million has been invested in the area that runs from Market to Chestnut streets between S. 2nd and S. 4th streets.

More projects are planned. For instance, Harristown has contracted with Harrisburg-based K&W Engineering to develop a comprehensive streetscape design that likely will include elements like new street furniture, greenery and stamped concrete accents.

Going forward, Jones said he’d like to see more boutique-style retail in the area, which would fit in well with the area’s restored brick rowhouses and small commercial buildings.

“It’s always had all the elements of a really neat neighborhood,” he said. “It just needed things to be filled in.”

The Night Light Pop Up Party, produced by Harristown Enterprises and SaraBozich.com, takes place 7 to 9 p.m. on Thursday, Aug. 31, on S. 3rd Street between Market and Chestnut streets.

Author: Lawrance Binda

Confection Connection: Two of Harrisburg’s best-known bakers join forces at Raising the Bar.

September 30, 2016 | by Ann Knaus

The search for the perfect pastry can be challenging, particularly if you have a discerning palate or just crave baked goods that are created with basic ingredients and loving care.

Just ask Isabelle Rousseau, a Harrisburg resident and native of Quebec, Canada. Since moving to Harrisburg, Rousseau has been on a mission to find the perfect croissant—and that quest took her to Raising the Bar, a recent addition to the Broad Street Market.

Owned by Casey Callahan and Timishia Goodson, the bakery opened in July, and Rousseau has been visiting since day one.

“It’s so hard to find good croissants in the city,” Rousseau said. “The day they opened, I purchased a croissant, and, 15 minutes later, I returned to tell them how good it was.”

No doubt that Rousseau knows a thing or two about the buttery pastries—they’re a staple in many French Canadians’ diets. In recent months, she has become a Raising the Bar regular, stopping faithfully for the made-from-scratch treats.

Callahan, a graduate of the Restaurant School of Philadelphia, and Goodson, who attended Lancaster County Career and Technology Center and HACC, are passionate about their craft. They honed their skills while forging a friendship working 10 years together at Ciao! Bakery on S. 3^rd Street in downtown Harrisburg.

Callahan, a classically trained chef, was honing her baking skills, while Goodson worked there “just helping out” in the kitchen, adding that she never had an interest in baking until seven years ago, when she found herself in front of the oven. And the rest, they say, is history.

Both are still working multiple jobs but hope, as their business continues to grow, they can spend more time focusing on their entrepreneurial endeavor at the market, which has proven to be the perfect spot for Raising the Bar.

“We were looking at places in Lebanon and Elizabethtown, but the market is so up and coming, and we have clientele from our prior job who have followed us here,” Goodson said.

Callahan added that the pair pondered a long time before making the move.

“We talked about this over the past year, realizing we were working in a corporate environment and really wanted to do something different,” she said. “I like the idea of something community focused. I am raising my children here, and I wanted to work where I live. And, because we source many of the ingredients we use in our recipes from vendors right here at the market, it just makes sense.”

Raising the Bar—a name Goodson came up with—references the baked bars they make, including lemon and pecan, which, Callahan says, she’s been baking since culinary school. The shop also offers breads, breakfast strata, cookies, tarts and cakes.

The women focus on recipes that are simple, fresh and uncomplicated, saying that, sometimes, the more complex and clever some recipes aspire to be, the farther away they get from their culinary roots. That’s not to say they don’t enjoy coming up with new ideas to keep things fresh or adding little twists to items to appeal to customers. But each takes a different approach: Callahan prefers reading cookbooks and magazines, while Goodson looks to the Internet. They recently found a great cake recipe that they are trying to modify and develop into one of their famous namesake bars.

Callahan and Goodson are looking toward fall and winter when, they say, they hope to collaborate with other business owners at the market to develop special events that attract new visitors to their location. They already participate in the popular 3^rd in the Burg each month in Harrisburg. Patrons also can visit their Facebook page and Instagram account to find out what’s new and for listings about upcoming events.

Raising the Bar is located in the stone building of the Broad Street Market in Harrisburg. The bakery is open during market hours.

Author: Ann Knaus

Taste & Tradition: At Greystone Public House, a side of history is served with every meal.

August 31, 2016 | by Stephanie Kalina-Metzger

Photo by Waxman Photography.

A stately stone structure situated high on a hill just off Linglestown Road has long commanded the attention of passersby. The historic building dates back to 1798, when Godfrey Fritchey purchased land from Andrew Berryhill and began construction of the fieldstone house.

In a time when simple log-home construction was the norm, this must have been an impressive sight. Fritchey was said to have designed the house to resemble his former home in Bavaria, leaving little doubt that he was, as they say, “a man of means.” The home became known as the Fritchey Mansion, and Godfrey and his wife raised 13 children there before establishing a tavern onsite. Sanctioned in 1805 by Gov. Thomas McKean, the liquor license reads:

“Whereas Godfrei Fritchey hath been recommended to me, as a sober and fit person to keep a House of Entertainment and being requested to grant him a license for the same, I do hereby license and allow the said Godfrei to keep a Public House in the Township of Paxton Dauphin County for selling Wine, Rum, Brandy, Beer, Cyder and all other spirituous Liquors.”

Until just last year, the Fritchey property operated as the Mount Hill Tavern under the eye of Doug Neidich, CEO of Harrisburg-based GreenWorks Development. When, after seven years, Neidich decided it was time to part with the property, he went on the record stating that he hoped that it would continue to operate as a restaurant. As it turns out, his wish was granted.

The property caught the eyes of John G. Frisch, owner of Higher Information Group in Harrisburg, and well-known local chef Jason Viscount. After purchasing the establishment for $1.65 million, the real work began. The two collaborated on extensive renovations, initially announcing a February opening date. As is often the case, the work took longer than expected. By the time the restaurant opened its doors in July, customers rushed the place, and business has been brisk since.

“We’re exceeding our expectations,” said Viscount, with a smile.

Inside, several seating areas accommodate about 135 patrons or guests can make the most of the waning days of summer by dining al fresco on the large patio. A handsome, gray, imposing concrete bar situated in the middle of the action overlooks the main dining room, which is bathed in sunlight during the day from large, geometrically shaped, oversized windows. Wooden tables, sans linens, tie in with the casual “public house” atmosphere, and attractive, handcrafted, custom chandeliers that resemble tree branches hang from high ceilings to further illuminate the area. A gray rug that runs throughout wasn’t quite adequate to douse the din of the diners, so something had to be done, according to Viscount.

“We had to install a rubber sound barrier beneath the carpet,” he said.

A separate seating area features bright yellow banquettes that are illuminated by large, hanging, rust-colored open spheres containing colonial-style candles.

Viscount describes the décor as “soft industrial with a modern touch” and points out special details along the way. As we ascend the steps to a private, but open seating area, he mentions the staircase leading up to the cozy room.

“They use red and white oak and employ a technique using vinegar and rust, which reacts with the tannins in the wood to create that charcoal black color,” he said.

A Twist

Viscount said he created a menu designed to attract a range of customers.

“We try to do dishes with a bit of a twist, but would also appeal to the entire family,” he said.

Appetizers include mussels, roasted oysters, crispy Brussels sprouts and hearty selections like onion soup and French fries with short rib gravy.

Five choices of salad range from Caesar to chopped for those who prefer lighter fare. The popular Greystone salad includes pears, butter lettuce, bleu cheese and candied walnuts and is topped with a champagne vinaigrette.

Handhelds include cheeseburgers, a lean bison burger, a veggie burger and a house-made pastrami sandwich served with sour red cabbage, whole-grain mustard and “Smoked Signal” cheese from Calkins Creamery in Wayne County.

Dinner dishes run the gamut from crab cakes to pork chops, prime rib, fish, day boat scallops, duck ragu with sage pappardelle and a dish that ranks number one among customers—the braised beef short rib.

“The crab cakes and the Salisbury steak aren’t far behind,” said Viscount.

Meant to Be

Shelle Roberts of Harrisburg said she enjoys both the atmosphere and the food at the restaurant.

“The scallops are my favorite because they’re fresh and delicious,” she said. “I also enjoy the décor, which is beautiful.”

She also likes that she feels comfortable bringing her 4-year-old daughter, Evelyn, who plays with an old-fashioned Etch A Sketch with a children’s menu affixed to the back.

“It’s more fun than crayons, and it allows her to be creative,” Roberts said.

Ed Dunlap recently took his family to Greystone Public House and said everyone was pleased.

“My daughter is picky, and she was happy, plus the service was fantastic,” he said. “I don’t think there is a better restaurant in the Hershey/Harrisburg area.”

Joe Wiles from Watts Township said he has followed Viscount since he left Bricco, where he was head chef for many years, and that his favorite dish is the sage pappardelle with duck ragu.

“He brought that one over from Bricco, along with the pork chop, and I’m’ glad he did—it’s a nice alternative to steak,” said Wiles, adding that his wife Rebecca enjoys the pan-seared diver scallops, and he’s looking forward to returning for the braised short rib.

Viscount said that, while the planning and renovation have been a lot of work, it’s been satisfying because of the enthusiasm of the public. After so much time searching for space in Harrisburg, Hershey, the West Shore, Lancaster and York, he finally found the place where he was meant to be.

Fritchey would be proud.

The Greystone Public House is located at 2120 Colonial Rd., Harrisburg. To learn more, call 717-829-9952 or visit www.greystonepa.com or their Facebook page.

Author: Stephanie Kalina-Metzger

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A Pasta Party: Bricco celebrates 10 years in downtown Harrisburg.

April 29, 2016 | by Phyllis Zimmerman

Restaurant years are similar to dog years—their age measured in a special way that goes beyond a mere accounting of time.

So, a restaurant that lasts five years? A success. 10 years? It must be doing something special that people are responding to.

This year, Bricco hits the decade mark, observing an anniversary that only a small number of restaurants reach. The Tuscan-style trattoria set up in a redeveloping area of downtown Harrisburg in 2006 and has patiently stayed as the area improved and hesitant first-timers became regulars.

“The Harrisburg restaurant landscape seems to be in a constant state of flux, with big names closing and new and interesting alternatives popping up on a regular basis,” said Bill Collier, executive chef and general manager. “So, Bricco’s ability to not only survive, but thrive, for 10 years is an accomplishment worth celebrating with all of our patrons.”

One of those regular patrons is Rosemary Ruggieri Baer, TheBurg’s food writer and lover of all things Italian. She and her husband, John, visit Bricco often for a range of pasta, pizza and meat dishes.

“Bricco really is a unique place that has many faces,” she said. “It’s a special occasion restaurant, but also a place where you can sit at the bar, have a great martini and a gourmet pizza on a Friday night.”

Bricco began its three-month-long anniversary celebration in February, featuring a series of promotions and special events, such as “Shuckin Special Oyster Night” and “Mixologist Monday: Italian Aperitifs.” Although most anniversary festivities have concluded, diners still can enjoy a spring menu that was introduced last month, said Collier.

“Our diners can expect an eclectic mix of local products displayed in an upscale fashion,” he said. “We use quality ingredients displayed in great flavors.”

The restaurant changes its menu four times each year to match the seasons. Collier said he especially enjoys this time of the year, when he’s able to prepare dishes with fresh spring ingredients like fiddlehead ferns, spring onions and mushrooms.

“Spring doesn’t last long in Pennsylvania,” he said. “We have a little bit of it in April and May and then—bam—it’s hot.”

Collier himself is a local product. His interest in cooking took root watching his mother and grandmother make Sunday dinner for 20 each week while he was growing up in Elizabethville. He then attended the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute in Pittsburgh “right out of high school.” He’s been at Bricco since 2008 and took over the top job in 2014 after the departure of long-time executive chef Jason Viscount.

Bricco, he said, is Harrisburg’s only DiRoNa, meaning it’s listed in the “Distinguished Restaurants of North America” guide to fine dining across the United States and Canada. With a wine list of more than 175 varieties, it’s also been recognized by Santé and Wine Spectator magazines.

“We have great selections of wine and Pennsylvania brews at our bar,” Collier said.

Originally owned locally, Bricco became part of the Denver-based Greenwood Hospitality Group in 2012 in a sale that included the Hilton Harrisburg. Bricco also is a partner of the Olewine School of Culinary Arts at Harrisburg Area Community College. Since 2006, dozens of students have worked alongside Bricco’s full-time chefs each semester.

“It’s a good environment for them to learn in,” Collier said.

Ciao Baby

In addition to the flagship restaurant, Bricco is closely affiliated with two other entities in the same building complex: Table at Bricco and Ciao! Bakery.

Table at Bricco is an intimate dining room for 10 to 14 people. It offers tasting menus of six small courses with wine pairings. Diners can watch their food prepared by one chef, usually Collier.

“It’s a private setting where you don’t have the hustle and bustle of the restaurant,” Collier noted.

Ciao! is a full-service bakery serving a variety of breads and sweets, as well as soups, sandwiches and gourmet coffees.

Veteran pastry chef Cassandra Callahan, who’s been with Bricco from the start, oversees the operation. She said that, for May, Ciao! will offer a line of spring items such as key lime pie, coconut pie and iced coffees. Every month brings a new special sandwich, as well as lemon or pecan bars, peanut butter truffles, honey wheat or rosemary and olive oil baguettes—and, hopefully, plenty of chocolate chip cookies.

“Everyone gets mad when there are no chocolate chip cookies or our bread,” she said. “There are not many places in Harrisburg that have fresh bread every day like we do.”

Now that the weather has warmed, the outdoor tables at both Ciao! and Bricco have become popular again. Baer says that she and her husband love to claim a sidewalk spot outside Bricco, order a pizza and take in the increasingly vibrant neighborhood that continues to change and develop.

“It is a unique location unlike any other restaurant area in the city,” she said. “At Bricco, there is something for everyone, and you don’t have to spend a bundle.”

Bricco is located at 31 S. 3^rd St., Harrisburg. For reservations, call 717-745-1531 or visit www.briccopa.com. Bricco also offers cooking classes on occasion for the general public.

Table at Bricco is located at 306 Chestnut St., Harrisburg. For more information, call 717-724-0222 or visit or www.briccopa.com.

Ciao! Bakery is located at 304 Chestnut St., Harrisburg. Ciao! can be reached at 717-724-0236 and at www.briccopa.com.

Duck Season: For April, one last hearty meal before we whip out the grill.

March 31, 2016 | by Rosemary Ruggieri Baer

Bricco’s sage pappardelle, duck ragout, pancetta and parmesan.

I have always loved duck. In the early 1970s, I was fortunate to eat at the famous Four Seasons restaurant in New York. It was springtime, and the duck was served with an amazing brown sugar glaze. I have never forgotten it.

In my early cooking years, I prepared duck in the classic French tradition: à l’orange—a whole duck roasted to a golden brown with a sweet orange and wine sauce. And I did learn the hard way one evening, as I was entertaining guests, that a small whole duck does NOT serve four people!

Finding duck to cook is not difficult these days. Both poultry vendors at the West Shore Farmers Market carry fresh duck, and it can usually be found at supermarkets too, sometimes frozen.

I did a little “duck research.” Ninety-five percent of all duck consumed in the United States is Pekin duck, a mild-tasting duck also known as Long Island duckling. It is likely the variety you will find in supermarkets and is relatively inexpensive. The breasts are usually sautéed, and the legs braised to tenderize them. It is likely the duck I ate at the Four Seasons.

Muscovy duck is a large duck that is roasted or stewed to veal-like tenderness. Its meat is strongly flavored.

Moulard duck is a cross between the above two varieties. It is commercially grown on farms for its meat and for foie gras, a specially fattened duck liver considered a delicacy in France.

The majority of meat from a duck comes from the breasts and legs and is darker than that of chicken or turkey. You will notice a layer of fat under the duck skin, which melts away after roasting. But duck fat is used in cooking, too, such as French duck confit (duck cooked in its own fat) and even French fries at downtown Harrisburg’s Federal Taphouse.

We know that the French love duck, but did you know that it is a part of Italian cuisine, as well? One of my favorite Harrisburg restaurant dishes is Bricco’s “Sage Pappardelle, Duck Ragout, Pancetta and Parmesan.” This dish has been on Bricco’s menu a long time, and it is luscious. So, I went looking in my cookbook library for a recipe for duck sauce that can be made at home and served over pasta.

What I found was a tomato-based sauce that only needs to simmer for an hour. It is a hearty sauce spiked with red wine and a little pancetta. The recipe originates from Florence, Italy, and there it is served over tortellini (homemade, of course). But it is equally good over fettucine, soft corn polenta or the wide noodles (pappardelle) used by Bricco. It calls for a whole duck cut into parts, but it is much easier to use duck breasts. I usually substitute bacon for pancetta in most recipes because I like it better.

Pasta al Sugo di Anatra
(Pasta with Duck Sauce)

Ingredients

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 ounces pancetta (Italian bacon) or thick regular bacon (smoked or unsmoked), cubed
1 small red onion, chopped
1 small carrot, peeled and chopped
¼ cup Italian (flat-leaf) parsley
1 small duck cut into parts or (much easier) 4 small duck breasts (defrosted, if frozen)
1 cup dry red wine
4 cups chopped tomatoes
Salt and pepper to taste

Recipe

In a deep heavy pot or pan, warm the olive oil.
Add the pancetta or bacon and onion until both are soft and golden in color.
Add the carrot, celery and parsley and sauté 4 minutes more until softened.
Add the duck pieces or breasts and brown well on all sides, about 10 minutes.
Season with salt and pepper and raise the heat to high.
Pour the wine in the pan and deglaze the pan by scraping up all the brown bits from the bottom.
When the wine has almost evaporated, stir in the tomatoes and cook stirring occasionally until the sauce is very thick (about 1 hour).
Transfer the duck to a cutting board and remove all the skin and bones if using whole duck pieces.
Chop the meat and place back in the sauce.

The duck ragout can be served over any of your favorite pastas. But, as noted above, because it is such a hearty sauce, it seems to work better with wider noodles such as fettucine or pappardelle. Try it with ravioli or potato gnocchi, as well, and sprinkle the finished dish with grated Parmesan.

April is here, and, hopefully, a lovely spring will follow. Before I drag out my grill, I’m going to try this duck ragout on what will certainly be a remaining stubborn cold weekend. Now, if only Bricco would share its recipe with us…..

February News Digest

February 29, 2016 | by Lawrance Binda

Budget Passed Again

For a second time, Harrisburg has passed a 2016 budget, which was largely unchanged from the version approved last year.

By a 6-1 vote, City Council last month OK’d a $60.4 million spending plan that adds 36 new positions, most in a newly created Neighborhood Services division. Councilwoman Shamaine Daniels was the sole member to vote no, stating that she believed the budget total was too high.

Council passed a budget in December, but reopened it a month later after three new council members took their seats. The new version is almost identical to the original, but it does give raises to a handful of city workers pending a study of pay equity in city hall.

The budget factors in about $3 million from a planned tripling of the local services tax (LST) to $156 per year for each person who works in Harrisburg and earns more than $24,418 annually. At press time, council still needed to approve the LST increase.

Commonwealth Court Judge Bonnie Leadbetter, who must approve changes to the city’s financial recovery plan, already has signed off on the tax hike.

Harrisburg Mayor Eric Papenfuse regards the LST increase as a way for commuters to contribute more to the city’s financial stability and to fund improved services, particularly for sanitation and road maintenance.

Stolen Firearms

Three antique guns were stolen from the National Civil War Museum in Reservoir Park last month, taken from an NRA-sponsored exhibit there.

A pair of Colt revolvers, dating to 1860 and 1861, was owned by the city, while an engraved Henry rifle from 1861 was on loan from a private donor, according to museum CEO Wayne Motts.

All three firearms were claimed to have once belonged to Simon Cameron, a Harrisburg native who served as President Abraham Lincoln’s secretary of war at the beginning of the Civil War. They were on display together as part of a “Guns & Lace” exhibit that was sponsored by a $25,000 grant from the National Rifle Association.

Police Capt. Gabriel Olivera confirmed that the thief made entry by breaking through a window and then breaking into the display case to remove the guns. The theft was not detected until hours later due to an apparent failure in the museum’s alarm system. Olivera added that the precise nature of the security lapse was not yet clear.

Olivera said surveillance footage captured images of a male thief, but that the images are not clear and that police are not yet releasing them because they “would not be of any use.” Police have not ruled out the possibility of an inside job, Olivera said.

The city released the following information identifying the weapons:

A .44 caliber M1860 Colt Army Revolver with serial number 11708.
A .36 caliber Colt M1861 Navy Revolver with serial number 1825.
An M1860 Henry Repeating Rifle with serial number 115, manufactured by the New Haven Arms Company and engraved with the word “Cameron” on the receiver.

Council Rethinks Pot Penalties

Harrisburg’s marijuana laws may soon change as City Council last month introduced a bill to reduce penalties for possession of the drug.

The city administration’s proposal would change possession from a misdemeanor to a less-serious summary offense and ease penalties to $100 for a first conviction and $200 for a second. After a third offense, possession again would be considered a misdemeanor crime.

Mayor Eric Papenfuse supports the change, saying too much city police time is occupied by low-level drug cases. He said he also doesn’t believe the change would encourage drug use, a charge leveled by some opponents.

At press time, a council committee was slated to consider the issue for further action.

Serious Crime Declines

The rate of serious crime in Harrisburg fell significantly last year, the Police Bureau said last month.

“Part 1” crimes declined by 17 percent in 2015 compared to 2014, the police said. These crimes include murder, rape, assault, burglary, theft and arson.

Of these, robbery fell from 283 to 228 reported incidents; assault decreased from 1,328 to 1,233 reported incidents; and theft dropped from 1,235 to 875 incidents.

Harrisburg tallied 19 homicides in 2015, the same as in 2014. However, three of those murders were categorized as self-defense, meaning that criminal homicides actually went down.

New Home for City Islanders

The Harrisburg City Islanders will make FNB Field (formerly Metro Bank Park) their home stadium for the 2016 season.

The city-based soccer team will play 10 home matches at the City Island ballpark, which also is the home stadium for the Harrisburg Senators. Another five home matches will be played at Clipper Magazine Stadium in Lancaster.

For the past two years, the Islanders have been looking to move out of the Skyline Sports complex, also on City Island, because the team considered it too small and lacking in basic amenities, such as bathrooms.

Mayor Eric Papenfuse said that the city, which owns the stadium, may benefit financially through increased ticket, sales and parking fees, especially if the move leads to greater attendance at Islanders’ matches.

Separately, First National Bank last month announced the stadium would be renamed FNB Field, as F.N.B. Corp. recently merged with Metro Bank’s parent company, Metro Bancorp.

Housing Sales Improve

The Harrisburg area continued to see improvements in housing sales, the Greater Harrisburg Association of Realtors (GHAR) reported last month.

Region-wide, sales totaled 557 units in January, compared to 501 in January 2015 and 448 in January 2014. The median price increased to $152,000, $4,000 more than in the year-ago period.

In January, Dauphin County tallied 185 sales at a median price of $134,000, compared to 177 units and a $132,000 median price in January 2015.

In Cumberland County, 201 units sold for a median price of $174,000 against 179 units at a price of $160,800 in January 2015, GHAR said. Perry County sales were also up, totaling 27 units for a median price of $147,000 versus 18 units at a price of $144,950 for the year-ago period, according to GHAR.

So Noted

Bricco, a downtown Harrisburg restaurant, plans a series of events and specials to celebrate its 10-year anniversary. These include special pricing, dining events and a new menu. For all the details, visit www.briccopa.com.

Changing Hands

Berryhill St., 1249: R. Eisner et al to E. Graves, $37,000

Berryhill St., 2116: Secretary of Housing & Urban Development to M. Wijaya, $31,000

Cumberland St., 1322: E. Brinkman to D. Brotz, $114,900

Derry St., 2416: S. Moose to I. Class & Y. Aguayo, $45,000

Derry St., 2513: L. Parker to R. Tortorelli, $59,900

Edgewood Rd., 2300: B. & C. Mark to T. Paradise, $195,000

Green St., 1425: M. Araujo to J. Miller, $95,000

Green St., 1701A: R. Myers to J. & V. Wills, $180,000

Green St., 2959: D. Jamieson to D. & V. Moore, $202,900

Hoffman St., 3214: M. Angelo to J. Gantt & H. Mahmood, $109,900

Hunter St., 1609: T. Vo to D. Vo, $160,000

Kelker St., 422 & 434, 1821 Fulton St. and 1820 N. 5^th St.: Hamilton Health Center to Christian Recovery Aftercare Ministry, $250,000

N. 2^nd St., 321 & 209 South St.: B. Hattingh to VMV Smart Solutions LLC, $425,000

N. 2^nd St., 1509: J. Tang to Vortex Properties, $105,000

N. 3^rd St., 3205: Secretary of Veterans Affairs to H. Pontius, $42,000

N. 4^th St., 3211: J. Kardisco to D. Cameron, $89,000

N. 17^th St., 1001: Miracle Group Inc. to E. Price, $80,000

Parkside Lane, 2906: R. & V. Eaton to R. & K. Riley, $210,000

Penn St., 1522: S. Faridi to M. Lindsay, $133,000

Regina St., 1414 & 2139 N. 4^th St.: SNL Realty Holdings & Touch of Color to NJR Group LLC, $71,500

Rudy Rd., 1916: R. Wagner to J. Burno, $53,000

Rudy Rd., 2413: J. Boutselis to PA Deals LLC, $55,000

Rumson Dr., 2586: PA Deals LLC to J. Tucker, $80,000

S. 19^th St., 14: C. Butler to M. Martinez, $45,000

S. 25^th St., 729: R. Wylie Jr. to 729 25^th Street LLC, $170,000

S. 26^th St., 733: T. Navas to E. Lowe & S. Fuentes, $72,000

State St., 213: Douglas, Hassler & McKillop to Legion Premier Properties LLC, $247,000

Susquehanna St., 1725: M. Gojmerac & C. Roma to B. & K. Martin, $94,000

Verbeke St., 309: S. Rosso to R. Green & D. Govender, $113,000

Wyeth St., 1406: A. Van Dyke to PA Deals LLC, $82,000

Harrisburg property sales for January 2016, greater than $30,000. Source: Dauphin County. Data is assumed to be accurate.

A Meal, a Memory: Caruso’s may be gone, but the melody lingers.

July 31, 2014 | by Rosemary Ruggieri Baer

Harrisburg’s restaurant scene has changed so much in recent years.

The places we considered “landmarks” in the city are gone: the Maverick (great steaks and a lobster fest in June), Italian classics at Lombardo’s (seafood fra diablo), the Esquire Room in the old Penn Harris (great burgers), and Santanna’s on 2nd Street with the fish tank at the door and hard shell crabs by the bushel.

We have new places to love now: Carley’s and Stock’s; Mangia Qui and Char’s; Café Fresco and Home 231; Bricco and El Sol; and many wonderful casual spots like the Federal Taphouse, Arepa City, Pastorante, Alvaro and Crawdaddy’s.

But driving on Chestnut Street in downtown Harrisburg always brings back memories of a little bistro that was very dear to my heart. Many years are gone since Dennis and Terry Snyder opened Caruso’s not far from the train station near what now is Bricco. It was a tiny place with a front-facing window, forest green walls decked with Italian art, and, on weekdays, the sounds of opera softly playing in the background. Caruso’s smelled like an Italian restaurant should smell, in my view: of olive oil and garlic.

It was the early ‘80s, and our children were very little back then. When my family could babysit, we would sneak out to Caruso’s for a late dinner, usually on a Saturday night. The little bistro was always bustling and, on weekends, Carl Iba, violinist for the Harrisburg Symphony, would stroll and play all night. I can never hear music from “Fiddler on the Roof” without thinking of him.

The food was wonderful: homemade pasta, fresh fish from Baltimore, chicken and meat dishes, all prepared in classic Mediterranean style. Terry made all the desserts herself. Her specialty was zuccotto, a chilled cake, brandy, chocolate and cream dessert prepared in a rounded mold. It was always on the menu. Lacrima Christi and Cortese di Gavi were always available for perfect wine accompaniments.

I still remember my first meal at Caruso’s: homemade spinach fettuccine with gorgonzola cream sauce and chicken with vinegar peppers. It was delightful. And, after that, we were regulars.

For this month’s column and as a tribute to Caruso’s, I searched and searched for a recipe for chicken with vinegar peppers to share with TheBurgreaders that was reminiscent of that first meal. I found a recipe by Bobby Flay called “Chicken and Peppers in Balsamic Vinegar Sauce”and decided to give it a try:

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a medium Dutch oven over moderately high heat (I used my cast iron Le Creuset) until it shimmers.
Pat dry 8 chicken thighs (bone in or boneless) with a paper towel and season with salt and pepper. Brown the thighs in batches (give them room!) until golden brown, about 4 minutes per side. Remove each batch to a clean plate until the others are done and before adding the peppers.
Cut 3 bell peppers (I used red, yellow and green) into thin strips and add to the casserole. Cook the peppers about 5 minutes until slightly soft. (August is a great month for peppers.)
Add 4 cloves chopped garlic and toss with the peppers about 1 minute.
Then add 1 tablespoon tomato paste and cook for another minute, working the paste through the pepper mixture.
Add 1 cup balsamic vinegar (I used a good white balsamic) and cook the pepper mixture until the vinegar is reduced by half.
Add 2 tablespoons honey and a cup of low sodium chicken broth and cook for 5 minutes more. The heat should still be moderately high.
Return the chicken to the pot, reduce the heat to medium, and cover the lid. Simmer the chicken until completely cooked through (at least 30 minutes) and then remove the lid.
Remove the chicken to a platter and then boil down the sauce a little to thicken.
Pour the sauce over the chicken and sprinkle with chopped Italian parsley.

We loved this dish. I served it with rice for him and creamy mashed Yukon gold potatoes for me. Sliced summer tomatoes with chopped basil would be a nice accompaniment to the chicken, along with chilled melon slices.

Now, as a matter of full disclosure, this dish was very different from my first cherished entree at Caruso’s. (I will have to keep searching.) But writing this column brought back wonderful memories of that special place. Here’s to a little restaurant on Chestnut Street that was decades ahead of its time. Salute!

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