Long-time readers know of my love and preference for Italian food. As a first-generation Italian, it is the heart and soul of my culinary endeavors.
But I had a moment. In the early 1970s, my husband and I spent quite a bit of time with friends who adored the whole French thing—food and wine in particular. And, well, they spent time there too.
We used to trade weekend visits with them. They’d come to Harrisburg. We’d go to and Washington, D.C. And we always looked forward to the Saturday night dinners that we cooked in our apartments.
I was introduced to French onion soup, coq au van, beef Bourguignon, crepes, cassoulets and, at breakfast, croissants. I was enchanted.
One of my favorite French classics, and my older son’s too, is Steak au Poivre, an easy-to-prepare dish that stars a rather large dose of black peppercorns. Now, you must like black pepper and food that is somewhat spicy, but this is a spectacular entrée. You might want to save it for a special occasion, but it is not difficult for a weeknight either.
My recipe is from a very old (1985) New York Times cookbook that features many classic recipes. I pulled it out recently, and many memories flooded back. There were so many things I hadn’t made for a long time, like Steak au Poivre.
Pair this dish it with a smooth red wine. My favorite is Beaujolais, a perfect accompaniment for a beautiful steak.
Steak au Poivre
Ingredients
- 4 New York strip steaks (or filets)
- 2 tablespoons whole black peppercorns
- 4 tablespoons butter
- 3 tablespoons warm cognac or brandy
- 2 shallots, finely chopped
- ¾ cup beef broth
- 1 cup brown sauce or canned beef gravy (it’s OK, just look for a good brand)
Directions
- Dry steaks with paper towels. Crush peppercorns with a mortar and pestle or a kitchen mallet (between 2 layers of waxed paper or in a plastic zip lock bag).
- Rub crushed pepper onto both sides of the steaks and set them aside for about an hour.
- Heat 3 tablespoons of the butter in a large heavy skillet (cast iron works so well here).
- Sauté the steaks quickly—about 3 minutes on each side for medium rare and slightly longer, lowering the heat, for more well done.
- When done, carefully pour the warmed cognac or brandy and ignite with a long match. Stand back!
- When the flames subside, place the steaks on a warm platter, and season with salt and pepper.
The Sauce
- Sauté the shallots in the remaining fat in the skillet until softened.
- Add the broth and cook it down until the skillet is almost dry.
- Add the brown sauce, bring it to a gentle boil, cook for 1 or 2 minutes and swirl in the remaining butter.
- Pour the sauce over the steaks or serve it separately.
I enjoyed the time I spent in the “land of French cooking”—and we always enjoyed the times we had with our Washington, D.C., friends. But the food memory we cherish most is the night we dined at a little French restaurant across from the White House. It was called Chez Francois. It is gone from there now but is still thriving out in the Virginia suburbs.
At the time, the menus were written in French, and our friend helped us navigate them to order. When the food came, we noticed that our friend had a strange look on her face and was pushing her food around on her plate. She had ordered “braised veal,” or so she thought. The waiter very politely informed her that what she had in fact ordered was brains of veal. More French lessons needed!
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