If you’re a restaurant-goer who loves to order a meat-and-cheese board, you might have noticed a fruit condiment included in the offerings, along with some little pickles (cornichons) and slices of Italian baguette.
Cork & Fork on 2nd Street in Harrisburg has long served something similar, along with a choice of Italian meats and cheeses. We love it and used to order the dry sausage they called “Baby Jesus” and a merlot-flavored BellaVitano cheese. The fruit relish was a great addition.
But what is this unusual fruit concoction beloved by Italians, especially in northern Italy?
I have learned it is mostarda or “mustard fruit.” But even a little research on the subject of mostarda led me into a maze of endless recipes. The beginning of fall and the approaching holidays seemed like a good time to try a simple version that certainly my dinner guests (if not my family) would enjoy.
I’ve learned that making mostarda can be a simple process or one that involves many steps, many fruits and, several “strainings” of syrup. I found a recipe for a very Christmas-y version made with apples, pears, cranberries and cherries. Some mostarda is made with fresh fruit, others with dried fruit. There is always mustard or mustard seeds and often cayenne pepper for a spicy kick. Sicilian mostarda relies on the lovely oranges and lemons that thrive on that beautiful island.
I settled on a recipe from the cookbook, “Giada’s Italy,” by one of my favorite cookbook authors, Giada De Laurentiis. It’s easy and relies on dried apricots, which are available year-round. It makes a small amount, and I thought it was a good place to start. Large amounts likely require canning, and I think my canning days are over.
Apricot Mostarda
Ingredients
- 1 tablespoon olive oil
- 1 shallot, finely chopped
- ¼ teaspoon salt
- 1 teaspoon whole mustard seeds
- ½ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
- ½ cup white wine vinegar
- 5 tablespoons sugar
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- 2 cups dried Turkish apricots, chopped
Directions
- Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan over medium heat.
- Add the chopped shallot, and salt and cook for 1 minute until the shallots are soft.
- Stir in the mustard seeds and red pepper flakes and cook for an additional minute.
- Add the sugar and vinegar and bring to a simmer, stirring often to dissolve the sugar (about 3 minutes).
- Whisk in the mustard and add 1 cup of the chopped apricots. Bring to a simmer and cook, stirring often, for about 10 minutes. The apricots should be plump, and the mixture should start to thicken to a jam-like consistency.
- Turn off the heat and stir in the remaining apricots.
- Cover the pan and cool to room temperature.
- Transfer the mixture to containers of your choice, but tightly covered. This recipe makes about 2 cups and will keep in the fridge for 4 weeks. Serve at room temperature.
Now, the northern Italians often serve mostarda with boiled meats, which most of us are likely not to do. (My mother served boiled beef for dinner, which she pulled from the soup pot, often accompanied by potatoes and turnips. I left that tradition with her!)
Besides adding mostarda to your meat and cheese boards, you can do many other wonderful things with it:
- Serve it as a relish with roast pork, ham or chicken for a fall dinner.
- Spread it over baguette slices coated with mascarpone or cream cheese.
- Top a round of brie with a good dollop of mostarda on top (especially good if the brie is warmed or baked in puff pastry).
- Place a little over plain Greek yogurt for breakfast or a snack.
- Use as a topping for a ricotta cheesecake.
This month’s recipe might be a little different, but I hope you will give it a try. A little container of it makes a lovely hostess gift if you are invited to dinner (you might have to explain what it is!). I plan on trying the apple and pear version with cranberries and cherries. It sounds like a nice change for Thanksgiving dinner.
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