Greater Harrisburg's Community Magazine

Mother’s Day, Italian Style: Brunch gets a Mediterranean makeover.

Screenshot 2014-04-30 10.21.58May arrives this year as a welcome relief from a harsh, cold winter. And as I write this in early April, spring hasn’t been much better. May is the month of soft breezes, lilacs, lilies of the valley, pink dogwood blooms, graduations, weddings and first Communions—and, of course, Mother’s Day.

When our parents and aunts were living, it was our Mother’s Day tradition to go to the Hotel Hershey for an early evening dinner. Those were wonderful times, if a little crazy, with so many Italians talking at once. One year, upon arrival, my husband told our server to bring him two martinis and talk to no one but him.

In more recent years, I’ve taken to entertaining my own small family on Mother’s Day. My husband would suggest this is due to my natural propensity for suffering. But I love to cook, and Mother’s Day is always a happy occasion for me.

Brunch, with its endless menu possibilities, is a great way to do Mother’s Day. You can eat early and still have time for a lazy walk along the river. Try beginning with a light and fresh mimosa (fresh orange juice and champagne), a spicy bloody Mary or maybe a Bellini (fresh peach puree and Prosecco). And, rather than traditional scrambled eggs or eggs Benedict, try a “frittata,” the Italian version of an omelet.

Like many Italian dishes, a frittata lends itself to variations and can be served hot, cold or at room temperature. Eggs can be mixed with your filling of choice, including fresh spring vegetables, Italian meats, all types of cheeses and even leftover, plain cooked pasta. Frittatas are begun in a skillet and finished in the oven, which, to me, is so much easier than trying to fold and flip an omelet.

But a few words of caution: a heavy, non-stick skillet that can go under the broiler must be used, and don’t overcook. Scorched fritattas aren’t very good.

The following frittata recipe comes from Giuliano Hazan, son of Marcello Hazan, known as the “queen of Italian cooking.” He advises mixing the sautéed vegetables with the eggs in a bowl, while other chefs simply pour the eggs right over the vegetables in the skillet. Either way works. His version combines several traditional Italian flavors: prosciutto, pecorino cheese, tomato and sweet basil. Remember, if you try this recipe, many different ingredients can be substituted. Aim for seasonal asparagus in spring or red peppers and eggplant in late summer.

Frittata with Onions and Prosciutto

  • Slice 2 large sweet onions into thin rings (look for Vidalias this time of year). Place them in a 10-inch, non-stick skillet and sauté along with 1½ tablespoons of sweet butter over medium heat until soft and lightly browned (about 10 minutes). Add a little salt and pepper.
  • Slice 1/8 of a pound (2 ounces) of prosciutto into thin strips and, when the onions are brown, add them to the skillet. Sauté for another minute.
  • Add a teaspoon of chopped fresh marjoram leaves to the skillet and cook 10 minutes more until the onions are completely wilted. Substitute fresh oregano if you prefer.
  • While the onions cook, dice a large (about 10 ounces) ripe tomato into ¼ inch pieces and add to the skillet. Cook about 10 to 15 minutes more until all the tomato liquid evaporates.
  • Beat 5 large eggs in a bowl and add 6 to 8 fresh, chopped basil leaves, ¼ cup grated pecorino Romano cheese and salt and pepper to taste. (Use a large bowl.)
  • Empty the contents of the skillet into the bowl with the eggs and mix thoroughly.
  • Pre-heat the broiler and melt an additional ½ tablespoon of butter in the same skillet. 
  • Pour the egg mixture back into the skillet when the butter is hot. Cook the eggs over medium heat for 6 to 8 minutes until the bottom is lightly browned. The top will still be runny.
  • Then place the skillet under the broiler until the frittata is firm and golden brown. Be careful not to burn. (Use one of the oven racks that is not so close to the heat.)
  • Remove the skillet from the oven and place it on a heatproof surface. Lightly run a plastic knife or spatula along the edges to loosen the eggs and then slide the frittata onto a plate. It will look like an “egg pie!”
  • As noted above, the frittata can be served warm or at room temperature, allowing time to get your other dishes on the table.

The frittata is usually cut into wedges and served with lightly dressed arugula salad. You also can toss fresh fruit with a little limoncello to serve alongside. A simple slice of melon would also be lovely.

Harrisburg has several restaurants serving delightful brunches. Mangia Qui, Home 231, Raspberries at the Hilton and the Federal Taphouse are among them. But, if you want to try your hand serving brunch at home, I know you will enjoy making frittatas. They do take a little practice but are so versatile. Try them for dinner, too, along with some rosemary roast potatoes.

Happy Mother’s Day to all readers of TheBurg!

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