In the world of wine, it is not uncommon for the traditions of the past and the ideas of the future to collide. Time continues its path toward the unknown, and things that were once set in stone are pushed out of the way.
For instance, the modern invention of the screwtop has finally made inroads against the age-old cork, though that controversy looks to continue for a long while.
Sometimes, though, new technologies help us to discover secrets of the past. DNA testing in Italy, for example, has brought grapes that were once thought to be extinct a new popularity. This, coupled with modern winemaking, has made it possible for us to enjoy wines that were available 2,000 years ago.
Three of these grapes are from the Campania region, one of the places the Greeks settled in ancient times—a hop, skip and jump from the island of Capri and with a beautiful harbor at what is now Naples.
The three grapes are Greco di Tufo, Fiano and Falanghina. These are not names that one hears very often or even sees in print when discussing white wines (the French and the Germans seem to have that pretty well covered).
There are certain similarities in these varietals. They are light in body and color, delicately aromatic, nicely acidic and don’t seem to age well. These are wines that match well with summer foods and with summer temperatures. Each one has its own characteristics and should be sought out by the wine drinker who is looking for something unique, as well as a bit of a history lesson in ancient Italian culture. Just remember that our modern refrigeration is light years ahead, and you can believe these quaffs were imbibed at room temperature.
The name Greco di Tufo translates into “the Greek from Tufo.” This is a town named after the volcanic rock (tufa) that it sits on. It gives the wine a wonderful, minerally nuance that shows in the first sip.
What I like best about this Greek is the way it coats the inside of your mouth. The taste of the grapes seems to fill every nook and cranny. It has a nice long finish and also works well as a palate scrubber, making the next bite of food as delectable as the first. It’s well worth a wine-lovers search.
The name Falanghina is thought to derive from the Latin word phalanga, meaning stake or pole. This is a reference to the early Greek method of training the vines onto poles or large stakes. This is a real workhorse grape used in sparkling, still and late-harvest dessert wines. It’s wonderful in all its permutations.
Fiano is known as the “pesto” wine. It has a nutty, herbal flavor that does taste remarkably like the popular green sauce. Poured at a meal with pasta covered in this traditional way is a true gourmands treat. It is a match made in heaven.
Three ancient grapes, three wonderfully modern wines. Can it get any better?
Keep sipping, Steve.
