Of the seven wines known as “noble,” only two are white, Riesling and Chardonnay.
Both are the finest of their type, with Riesling dominating the vineyards of Germany, and Chardonnay the most popular white grape in French Burgundy. They both have a rich and elegant past, but the Gallic grape has received a tremendous amount of bad press, which I feel is not deserved.
In Burgundy, this grape has been cultivated and cloned for centuries. The best are rich and have wonderful flavors of green apples, stone fruits and buttered toast. They also have the ability to age gracefully and cost a small fortune.
The stainless steel versions from the French villages of Macon are well worth seeking out. My favorite Chards come from Saint-Veran and Chablis, which show great quality and are reasonable in price, while allowing the drinker to taste the famous Burgundy terroir.
Other Chardonnays do not reach this pinnacle because of the nature of the fruit and how it reacts to climate and soil. In warmer climates, the flavors of tropical fruits dominate the wine. This is clearly obvious in Chards from California and Australia.
You also can find Chardonnay in two distinct versions, oaked and unoaked. This is an indication of barrel fermentation, as opposed to the same process in stainless steel. Both can be pleasant and easy to drink, as well as a great match with light fare.
Aging wine in barrels is one thing, but the practice of simply adding wooden staves or even wood powder into the fermenting tanks gives the quaff the flavor of grapefruit and tannin. This has become such a wine type that it has spawned ABC clubs (anything but Chardonnay).
Closer to home, you’ll find abundant Chardonnays on any wine trail in Pennsylvania. A good summer sipper widely available locally, it contributes to our area’s uniqueness and livability.
There is another option that appeals to wine drinkers of all stripes. Champagne is the great sparkling French wine of that same-named region and is used on bottles of bubbly all over the world.
The words to look for on the label are blanc de blancs. This means a white wine made from white grapes, the finest of which is Chardonnay. The secondary fermentation transforms the still wine into the most ethereal of beverages, a fine match to foods complex and simple.
California has a huge bubbly industry, and vintners use French grapes in many of their wines—some may even be labeled Champagne. Fair enough. Just know that this white grape can be enjoyed in many wines with or without bubbles. And it can be wonderful.
Keep sipping, Steve
