A few weeks ago, I got a text from my friend David.
He works at the Hilton Harrisburg, which recently replaced its two stalwart restaurants, and he was at an employee tasting at the new Ad Lib Craft Kitchen and Bar.
The text read: “Umm Alexis. Our new food is f*$%ing great.”
He sent a photo of a pickled beet egg that he was eating and described it as “a deviled egg crossbreed. It’s got a real pickled bite to it, and that sliver of beet is crunchy.”
There were lots more texts describing other dishes, in all caps to emphasize their sheer awesomeness (“I AM EATING PRETZEL BALLS STUFFED WITH CREAM CHEESE, PEPPERONI AND JALAPENO”) and yet more acclaiming Ad Lib’s edible cocktails (more on those later).
When I asked Tony Bianco, executive sous chef at both Ad Lib and 1700° Steakhouse (i.e. 1700 degrees Fahrenheit, the temperature of the infrared broiler that sears the steaks), what prompted the big changes, his answer was simple: “It was time.”
“When the original concepts [for the previous restaurants, Raspberries and The Golden Sheaf] were new, they were ahead of their time,” he said. “But things have changed, and we wanted to catch up. It was time to change the vibe, change the energy.”
The reinvention of dining at the Hilton was part of a larger remodeling project that coincided with the hotel’s 25th anniversary in Harrisburg.
We chatted about Ad Lib first, and I mentioned David’s passionate texts. Bianco laughed and explained that the idea behind Ad Lib was to present traditional comfort foods in new and unexpected ways. The pickled egg that David loved is a great example.
“It’s a deviled beet egg, but we pickled the white in white vinegar, so you’re not necessarily expecting vinegar flavor when you bite into it,” Bianco said. “We added the beet to the yolk mousse instead, which creates a beautiful presentation and some unexpected flavor.”
Ad Lib’s menu is based around small plate sharing, and, according to Bianco, it’s one of the only places in the area with a menu that’s designed this way.
“Your server will help guide you through the experience,” he explained. “You can just order a few at a time and share with your friends… just let the meal evolve.”
Ad Lib also features an adventurous cocktail selection, including 30 wines by the glass, 60 different craft beers and edible cocktails.
Wait, what?
Here’s how David described one of them, a s’mores cocktail: “Chocolate liqueur and vodka, made into a gelatin, with house-made toasted marshmallows and a cinnamon sugar biscuit.”
So, yeah, that sounds amazing.
As for 1700°, the infrared broiler was the inspiration for the whole concept.
“It gives a nice hard char to the outside of the steaks,” explained Bianco.
At 1700°, the broiler puts in a full day’s work as nine different steak entrees populate the regular menu, with chef’s specials often boosting the beef dishes into the double digits. The choices include almost every quality cut of grass-fed angus, including a 21-day, dry-aged New York strip, a process that intensifies the flavor and tenderizes the meat.
Can’t decide? 1700° sympathizes with your dilemma and offers a steak sampler, which includes four ounces each of Kobe flat iron, certified angus tenderloin and the New York strip.
For those who prefer less cow, the restaurant has a wide range of seafood dishes, including a seafood bar, as well as soups, salads and a risotto of the day.
And just when you’ve finally decided between the grass-fed porterhouse and the prime rib eye, you face another difficult choice. Right there in the dining room, an 8-foot-tall glass wall tempts you with more than 1,000 bottles of wine.
It’s at that point that you realize that Harrisburg finally has what many say it’s been lacking—a world-class steakhouse.
“Both Ad Lib and 1700 have a real big city feel,” said Bianco. “It really doesn’t feel like any other place in Harrisburg.”
Ad Lib Craft Kitchen & Bar and 1700° Steakhouse are located inside the Hilton Harrisburg, 1 N. 2nd St., Harrisburg. For more information, visit www.adlibrestaurants.com (717-237-6419) and www.1700restaurant.com (717-237-6400).
