Tag Archives: fashion

Uncommon Scents: Men and fragrances—the battle is on.

Ryan Spahr

What’s that smell?

If you’re a guy, that question should be an admirable one—not embarrassing. Men usually fumble when it comes to olfactory fashion and, honestly, it shouldn’t be our fault.

As we come of age (so to speak), we’re thrown an array of teenage essence that is more like smelling salts. Axe Body Spray, in my opinion, should be akin to Mace. “It stings the nostrils,” much like Sex Panther in “Anchorman.” Late ‘90s fragrances of Tommy and Curve for Him are gassed into my memory of failed first dances.

Our role models aren’t much better. My grandfather lathered up with Old Spice from a jar that looked like a bottle of hot sauce. Every gym locker room my nose has been in reeks of Aqua Velva and Barbicide. What’s my point? We generally stink at trying to smell good.

Have you ever heard of Cologne, Germany? That is where an Italian-born fella developed citrus-scented water in 1708 because it reminded him of an “Italian spring morning, of mountain daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain.” Romantical. He hawked it as the first-ever men’s fragrance, to much popularity at the time.

His philosophy of a man’s cologne was to invoke or create a positive memory. Brain anatomy studies have shown that smells are closely linked to memory and emotions. So, when choosing your signature scent, think of how you would like to be remembered.

Both my grandfather and dad have passed away, and I can remember the Old Spice and Issy Miyake, respectively. Which is why your invisible cloak could be perhaps the most important thing you wear daily.

First, there are three main ingredients to a fragrance: top, middle and base. Top scents are what hits your nose immediately—citrus zest, herbs and sweet notes. These should be light to lure you closer. The middle note is basically the bulk of the scent. These are smells of tobacco, leather, nutmeg and ocean. And the base is usually the category you may be asked what you personally are drawn to—woodsy, musk or clean.

Instead of rubbing magazine inserts on your neck, it would be best to go to a professional shop to try on different scents. Not just smell alone, but how your body reacts to the fragrance also matters. Head to a department store or big box fragrance shop to get an idea of the designer brands. Take a pal or significant other with you, because, honestly, the scent isn’t really for you. My wife digs my Burberry Touch and baby powder concoction. Proper application is vital. It should be a hint ‘o you—not a Glade plug-in. Take the spray bottle at arm’s length and spray once to the upper chest and neck area where nuzzling happens most.

With anything in life, there is an upper echelon of eau de Colognes. Chops Barbershop in Midtown crafts handmade scented aftershaves that you could slap on. The pièce de résistance of olfactory opulence is just north of us in Scranton. NOTE Fragrances on Spruce Street has infinite combinations of oils and extracts to help you tailor a signature scent. Book an appointment and tell them I sent you. They’ll say, “who?”

Dave’s Cocktail of the Month
Sip on this fragrant cocktail, which will help draw someone in to stop and smell the roses.

Herbal Es-scents
• 1 ounce Cachaça or Caribbean rum
• 4 kumquats, halved
• 3 lime wedges
• 2 sprigs rosemary
• 1 teaspoon cane sugar

Muddle kumquats, sugar, 1 sprig rosemary needles and 2 limes wedges in a shaker, pour in the liquor and shake over ice. Strain into glass and garnish with remaining lime wedge and sprig of rosemary. Breathe it in before each sip.

Dave Marcheskie, a former reporter and anchor for abc27 News, is our Sharp Press Man.

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Keep on Strutting: For Shoe Strut, 2,000 new pairs—and counting.

While many adults probably remember their back-to-school shopping as an anticipated adventure, some area children go without.

In fact, some youngsters may even avoid going to school because they’re ashamed to be seen in worn or unstylish shoes. That’s where Shoe Strut comes in.

On Sept. 22, Salvation Army Harrisburg will sponsor its 6th annual Shoe Strut, a charitable luncheon and footwear fashion show.

But, really, this isn’t about shoes for you. Shoe Strut’s main purpose is providing footwear for needy children. The Salvation Army, in partnership with Boscov’s, provides one pair of shoes on behalf of each Shoe Strut attendee. Additionally, 100 percent of the event’s silent auction proceeds directly benefit the children.

Last year’s Shoe Strut garnered some $65,000 that funded 500 $30 Boscov’s shoe vouchers, with remaining funds put toward other charitable Salvation Army programs. By distributing vouchers instead of actual footwear, delighted youngsters get to shop for shoes of their own choice at Boscov’s, which sells the goods at a discount, according to Kathy Anderson-Martin, Salvation Army Harrisburg’s director of philanthropy.

Not bad for something that started over a pizza.

The genesis of Shoe Strut took place on an otherwise ordinary day in 2012 as the Salvation Army Harrisburg’s women advisory board shared a pizza in the facility’s community room. Between bites, Claudia Williams and friend Lisa Benzie brainstormed fundraising ideas.

“Then Claudia asked, ‘How about shoes?’” Anderson-Martin recalled. “Some of the kids in our youth programs didn’t have a decent pair of shoes, and some of them didn’t go to school because of that.”

That was all it took to set things in motion for the first Shoe Strut, which netted $20,000 in proceeds and attracted 250 attendees. Since then, the event has continued to grow. In 2016, a crowd of 500 flocked to the sold-out show.

Although this year’s tickets were “technically” sold out months ago, organizers said some tickets likely will become available closer to the date of the event.

Since its inception, Shoe Strut has helped to provide more than 2,000 pairs of shoes to young people selected from Salvation Army Harrisburg programs. Most recipients are in late elementary school, middle school or high school. Surplus funds have gone toward Salvation Army Harrisburg summer programs for at-risk youth, meals and basic needs assistance, self-sufficiency programs and even a new freezer for the Salvation Army facility in Midtown.

“It’s helped to fund a lot of things that otherwise wouldn’t have happened,” said Cindy Minnich, Salvation Army Harrisburg’s special events and communications coordinator.

Not surprisingly, Salvation Army Harrisburg has received numerous letters from parents, grandparents and others who are grateful for what their child received from Shoe Strut, and it’s a lot more than just shoes.

“We wish to thank you so very much for the book bag and shoes for our son,” said one letter. “They allowed him to go to school with what he needs, so he can maintain his 4.0 GPA!”

Another letter read, “The shoes and uniforms are a huge blessing! My grandchildren were so excited and eager to start school. It would have been a struggle for me alone. I know I speak for others as well when I say thank you for being there for our community.”

In retrospect, Minnich and Anderson-Martin are proud of all that has sparked from an initial lunchtime brainstorm.

“All in all, this is a pretty amazing story of what a group of woman can accomplish when eating pizza in a basement and sharing good ideas,” Minnich said.

Salvation Army Harrisburg’s 6th annual Shoe Strut takes place Sept. 22 at the Radisson Hotel Harrisburg, 1150 Camp Hill Bypass, Camp Hill. For more information, visit www.shoestrut.com or www.pa.salvationarmy.org/harrisburg-pa.

Author: Phyllis Zimmerman

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Harrisburg’s “Merchant Princess”: New book explores the fascinating life of retail pioneer Mary Sachs.

Screenshot 2016-01-26 21.20.21

Eleanor Roosevelt and Mary Sachs.

As a Jewish kid growing up in Harrisburg, I went to the Jewish Community Center on Front Street multiple times per week.

Often, I would end up in the main auditorium, more commonly known as “The Mary Sachs,” for the woman whose Mona Lisa-like portrait hangs above the doorway. It wasn’t until many years later that I realized she was a Jewish woman and entrepreneur whose story is woven into the fabric of Harrisburg.

“She was seen as a merchant, philanthropist and benefactor,” said William Greenberg, Sachs’s grandnephew and chairman of the Mary Sachs Trust.

Now, a new book details her life and success in this city’s heyday. Barbara Trainin-Blank’s “Mary Sachs: Merchant Princess” (Sunbury Press) takes us back to the first half of the 1900s, when Harrisburg was a bustling, industrious city.

Trainin-Blank describes her book as a second edition of sorts to Bern Sharfman’s 2003 book, “Their Gifts Keep Giving: The Saga of Mary Sachs and Her Two Co-worker Sisters.”

“What else was there to say?” Trainin-Blank said she remembers thinking after reading that book.

Quite a bit, it turns out. Using resources like the Mary Sachs Trust, the Dauphin County Historical Society and Pennsylvania State Archives, Trainin-Blank focuses mainly on Sachs and her entrepreneurialism, while incorporating details about her sisters and their collective philanthropy.

 

Commanding Respect

Born on March 10, 1888 in Lithuania, Sachs immigrated to the United States with her mother and two sisters—five more siblings would be born in this country—in 1892. After living in various places around Maryland and Pennsylvania and gaining experience in retail, she settled in Harrisburg around 1916, writes Trainin-Blank.

The Mary Sachs Store opened in Harrisburg on Sept. 6, 1918, with Lancaster and Reading locations following in 1921 and 1923, respectively. According to Trainin-Blank, success came quickly, as the store grossed more than $200,000 in sales during its first year.

Between 1955 and ’58—the “high water mark,” Greenberg said—Sachs employed about 200 people. Initially selling just women’s apparel, the Harrisburg location at 208 N. 3rd St. eventually expanded to include men’s and children’s clothing, a home goods section, a paper shop and a candy shop.

Aunt Mary was Ms. Sachs in her store, recalled Greenberg, speaking of his days as a store clerk in the 1950s. Her demeanor commanded respect, but she was personable, friendly and caring toward those around her, he said.

The stores’ advertisements reflected those values, often boldly and unconventionally. In reference to her refusal to join the “Chain Store Age,” one of her ads, included in Trainin-Blank’s book, stated, “I am too individual in my approach to fashion to be a link in a chain. And the women I cater to are too individual in their requirements to be counseled by proxy…I have a fierce attachment to Harrisburg…It’s my town, and I love it.”

 

Ahead of the Curve

The Mary Sachs Store was the first in central Pennsylvania to carry certain high-quality, unique designers and manufacturers, said Greenberg, a federal judge in Washington, D.C. Sachs traveled with her sisters, Hannah and Yetta, to New York several times per year and Paris annually to purchase merchandise.

“She was ahead of the curve of what was going to sell and be popular,” Greenberg said.

He remembers “many an afternoon” working on his aunt’s personal delivery vans, and the stores’ distinctive gray-and-red wrapping paper was held as a status symbol.

Sachs’s personal attention to both her customers and clothing earned her acclaim beyond Harrisburg. First ladies Eleanor Roosevelt and Mamie Eisenhower were both customers and personal friends, and she often welcomed important public figures to Friday night dinners at her Front Street mansion. Along with promoting her business, Sachs used her ads to appeal to the public and comment on current events, Greenberg said.

“I wish she was better known,” said Trainin-Blank, a long-time Harrisburg-area writer and contributor to TheBurg. “That was the purpose [of the book].”

Trainin-Blank’s connection to Sachs goes back to her early years in Harrisburg in the late 1980s when Hannah, Mary’s youngest sister, approached her about the book that Sharfman would later write. Almost a decade later, after a meeting with Sunbury Press founder Larry Knorr to discuss another of Trainin-Blank’s books, the two mutually agreed that a Mary Sachs monograph was needed.

Sunbury Press, based in Mechanicsburg, often publishes local historical books, and Knorr wanted to do one involving Harrisburg’s Jewish community.

“This was a woman in the early 20th century who owned her own retail business,” Knorr said. “There’s something there.”

“Mary Sachs: Merchant Princess” contributes to an often-quiet legacy that has spanned decades since Sachs’s death in 1960. That legacy now largely rests with the Mary Sachs Trust, on whose board Greenberg has sat since 1973. He said that Sachs was as much a philanthropist as she was a businesswoman, and the trust aims to support organizations and institutions that she supported in her time.

“What would she do and observe as a need?” he said, regarding the trust’s mission.

Today, Mary Sachs’s place in history reaches beyond the auditorium at the Jewish Community Center or the downtown building that still bears her name. It reaches to local colleges and universities, to girl and boy scouts, and around the world.

“Mary Sachs: Merchant Princess” by Barbara Trainin-Blank can be found at local bookstores, online and at www.sunburypress.com.

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Outshine with Outerwear: The weather may be ugly, but you don’t have to be.

“Cold enough for ya?”

It’s an odd expression that I loathe simply because it is cold enough. February is often the harshest, snowiest month around Harrisburg. When my meteorologist friends get geeked out by negative wind chills, I become frustrated with every alternative term to “the white stuff” during the wall-to-wall flurry coverage. It’s easy to ditch fashion for comfort—er, survival during this time of year. But we can try to make facing the bitter cold look hot.

Who didn’t have a Starter jacket in the ‘90s? Besides that lame Cowboys fan (emoticon winky face), everyone I knew had either had a Kelly green Eagles or a red Phillies pullover half-zip Starter jacket growing up. Just about every girl had a purple-and-teal Charlotte Hornets Starter jacket.

But, fellas—have you ever noticed that our female companions have a dozen different jackets hanging up in their closet? (Or slung over every dining room chair in my experience.) Women have moved on from athletic franchise billboards—shouldn’t we? Perhaps this could be a wise Valentine’s Day gift. Follow me.

It should be no surprise that many current men’s winter coats have a military background. The government-issued weather-beaters have kept many fighters alive in battle since the 17th century. Still, today, there are slight differences between function and fashion.

Overcoats became popular after Napoleon’s military charge in frigid Russia. This type of outerwear extends below the knee and is usually constructed of a heftier fabric—wool, tweed or cashmere. Personally, I think Napoleon just wanted to appear taller. Not a bad trick if you have a similar complex.

Topcoats are the military’s dressier warm gear. Topcoats usually fall above the knee and are made of slightly lighter fabric. The topcoat’s cousin is called a covert coat, distinguished by a velvet collar—nice detail. These are great for your workweek. Go with black, navy or charcoal for a slimmer appearance ($55 Dobell.com). Go bold. English designers have perfected the topcoat in recent decades. This London-style twist offers glen plaids, windowpanes and herringbone textures in unique shades like camel-and-cranberry ($115 Samuel-Windsor.com). Many of these coats also feature an outer breast pocket for, say, a pocket square!

Another military-style staple is the tried-and-true, Navy-style pea coat that extends just below the waist. This double-breasted jacket worn by salty sailors will never have you looking like a boob. Keep it classic—navy or black. For a slight variation, I have one with a shawl collar ($79 Macys.com).

World War I was all about trench warfare, hence the invention of the trench coat. These extend nearly to your toe. Unless you want to look like Neo from the Matrix, I vouch for a shorter coat and tall socks to keep your calves warm instead.

Lastly, there’s the bomber jacket. This Maverick-must has roots in the Air Force. Leather and lamb’s wool acted as a good windbreaker in the open-air cockpit. They have an elastic band at the waist to keep Jack Frost from creeping up your back. To look like an ace aviator and not a “Top Gun” fanatic, there are slimmer, fleece-lined flight jackets that’ll keep you toasty and flying style high ($99 PXclothing.com).

While coat collars do their best to keep your neck warm, you’d better invest in a scarf. If you have two or three different colors, you can switch up the look in an inexpensive way while wearing the same coat. If you have a solid dark coat, go with a regal purple check scarf. If you went big on your coat, perhaps a dark solid scarf to balance out your boldness.

Bonus: Retailers say that this may be the best time of the year to buy new outwear. Most stores are trying to dump inventory to make room for happier spring things. Plus, warmer temps earlier this winter means there’s a lot of unbought jackets needing a back, which is why you could see major discounts.

Once you gifted yourself, it is time to offer your fancy new layer to your Valentine’s date while walking downtown. Perhaps, fashion and chivalry will not make you shiver alone on these cold February nights (emoticon winky face).

As a twist on the usual gentleman’s cocktail (which has become a tradition in this column), I want to pass along an adult V-Day dessert that’ll make your date melt.

 

AFFOGATO:

  • Two scoops of ice cream (try Urban Churn’s chocolate)
  • One shot of espresso (Made in a Moka pot, $9 Home Goods)
  • 1 ounce of Avion Espresso Liqueur

Use a ground coffee of choice and make the Moka pot stovetop coffee. Pour the coffee and Avion over the ice cream and eat immediately—one spoon per couple (emoticon winky face).

 

Our Sharp Press Man, Dave Marcheskie, is a reporter and anchor for abc27 News. If you’d like to ask Dave a fashion question, please email it to [email protected]. He may use it in a future column.  

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Man Up, Layer Up: Guys, slowly back away from that hoodie.

Screenshot 2015-07-31 09.56.12If you’re reading this and are wondering why people in plaid shirts are sprinting past you—don’t worry—coffee shops likely just unleashed the pumpkin spiced latte, not the zombie apocalypse. It’s not even Labor Day, and you see that gourd-infused craft ales already are being poured, football dominates water cooler chit-chat, and every retailer has plastic turkeys staring you in the face.

Fall is almost here.

As much as I will personally savor the last sips of summer along the Susquehanna and be in denial until October, I will look ahead to the crisp air of autumn for style-sake. A few simple swaps will have you ready to conquer the cooler temps.

1. Upgrade at least one hoodie.

Women seem to have a fall uniform: tall boots, tight jeans and scarves. You’ll spot this at any apple orchard, antique barn, or… anywhere, really. Guys can get creative, but most opt for the easy route when it’s chilly—the hoodie.

I still have my college sweatshirt, and, yes, even one from American Eagle (honesty sets you free, I hear). But I’ve also matured my collection to include a cream-and-navy-striped knit hoodie with wooden toggles. And my nickname for four months might as well be “shawl cardigan.” Start with the basic V-neck sweater. I lean towards rich solid colors like indigo, wine or rust.

Save those mustard-stained pullovers for raking leaves and tailgates. If you’re going out for the night or a professional event, hang up the hoodie.

2. Layer up.

Take that sweater and wear a patterned button-down underneath instead of a T-shirt. Crew necks (the rounded ones) tend to suffocate the collars a bit—stick with a V-neck. If you can help it, keep the collar wings tucked in or else you’ll look like Tony Manero. Your shirttails should stay tucked for business and untucked for beers.

Take the same look and throw a suit jacket or blazer over top, and you’ve layered something sweeter than cake. Remember your pocket square and shoe rules (TheBurg, February 2015 and May 2015, respectively), and you will yet again impress the room.

3. Texturize your blazers.

Tweed has returned as king. Well before Under Armour, Scottish gentlemen began wearing tweed around the 1830s as a performance fabric. The “tweel” process to make the fabric allows it to be a breathable, flexible insulator that helped Celtic sportsmen stay warm and dry in the countryside. Folklore has it that a Scottish tailor had too many Glenlivets and the “l” in “tweel” became a “d”—hence tweed.

In today’s world, this is good for, say, the fella that spills his pumpkin-spiced porter on ya at the pub.

Forget the stodgy Harvard professor stereotype. You’ll look even smarter in one of these fine gems. You can find inexpensive vintage tweed blazers with magical leather elbow-patches and buttons at consignment shops or online starting at $20 (ebay user “whiskeyknuckles” has a decent selection). For a quick nip-tuck, you can take it to Top Shelf Menswear’s new Lemoyne store where its tailoring services were expanded—win-win.

Corduroy, our lovable ‘80s fabric, is back with a vengeance. A corduroy blazer on top of a sweater and button down is equally as durable, plush and stylish as tweed. Wear with dark jeans—not cords—or you will look like Professor Jennings. Clue jokes aside, I’ve got one in plum.

Let’s recap your new fall semester syllabus. Upgrade your hoodie, layer your sweaters with button-downs and blazers, and choose rugged texture over fine wool or silk. These simple style cues will take you from freshman on campus to the boss in the boardroom.

If you get hot with all those layers, that’s the point—you can layer down.

Screenshot 2015-07-31 09.56.04I’ve got one more swap for you—your fall drink. Instead of stuffing your gourd with those predictable seasonal brews, try this layered-with-autumn-flavor cocktail I have affectionately named “The Corduroy.”
1 ½ ounces spiced rum
½ ounce cinnamon whiskey
1 ounce apple cider
Squeeze of lemon

Shake over ice, strain, pour over king cube and top with a splash of ginger ale. Garnish with a slice of Granny Smith apple.

Indulge. Stand out.

Our Sharp Press Man, Dave Marcheskie, is a reporter and anchor for abc27 News. If you’d like to ask Dave a question, please email it to [email protected]. He may use it in a future column.
 
This column is sponsored by and the clothes were provided by Top Shelf Menswear. Check out their new location in the State Street Plaza, 829 State St., Unit 1009, Lemoyne, 717-770-2080. www.topshelfmenswear.com.

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From Dumpy to Debonair: Welcome to our new men’s fashion column–and to your first pocket square.

Screenshot 2015-01-28 00.01.51“Man, you look great.”

Those are four words that every guy should hear. That simple phrase evokes respect, confidence and could lead to endless possibilities in work and play. Most of us want to dress well, but are either intimidated or broke—or both.

Welcome to a new quarterly column dedicated to refining your lifestyle, fellas.

My name is Dave Marcheskie, Harrisburg reporter for abc27 News. Yeah, I’m the dude who was photobombed by another dude drinking out a vase last year. At least I looked good in that viral video, right? Being on TV comes with a certain responsibility of dressing well. And, when I was 22, I finally figured that out.

Before college graduation, I turned to Maxim Magazine or FHMfor male advice because, you know, bikinis, booze and Bentleys were the only things that mattered. Growing up, suit shopping was a once-every-couple-of-years venture with my parents. The experience usually consisted of going to a mall department store and having a clerk choose an off-the-rack ‘Merica-cut that did me two sizes too big, paired with a shirt and tie resembling Regis on “Who Wants to be a Millionaire.”

Despite my unassuming appearance, I landed my first job in Greenville, N.C. I encountered more tobacco fields and Waffle Houses than I could count. I made the big time. I eagerly inked my first contract with excitement earning a cool $22,000 salary. I had a full-time, on-air gig with one suit—$#*!.

I needed to look the part using pennies. Jose Cuervo was immediately traded for Jos. A. Bank. Honestly, I couldn’t afford either. I needed something to elevate my professional plight to posh. Thus, my affinity for the pocket square was born. The reaction from co-workers, government officials and viewers led me on a path to become a “Sharp Press Man.”

The pocket square instantly upgrades any blazer or suit and completes the look. My secret: that little piece of fabric is just that—fabric. Follow me. Most retail stores sell actual pocket squares from $8 to $15. You could even throw down a hundo-spot for handcrafted pocket art from Armstrong & Wilson.

Or you could go to any place that sells bulk fabric and ask for a “quarter yard” worth of paisley-print silk and walk out with 75 cents worth of sophistication.

I still rock these on a daily basis. (In full disclosure, I have amassed an extensive collection over the years of all-priced pocket squares, even those $90 A&W bad boys I received for free after winning a style contest.)

Using my secret, price should no longer be a factor. Selecting which colors and fabrics depends on a few basic principles. If you are going sans tie, you have more freedom in the color/pattern department. If you have a basic wool suit or blazer, go with shiny silk in the fall and winter, linen or cotton for spring and summer. Patterned pocket squares work best with solid suits and vice versa.

Screenshot 2015-01-28 00.01.39If you’re wearing a tie, there’s only one don’t—pre-packaged hanky-and-tie combos. Same goes with shirt-and-tie boxes you find nowadays, but that’s another lesson. It just looks forced.

Instead, pick a color that is either contrasting or an understated hue in your neckwear. Let’s remember your elementary school art classes. If you have a solid, dark blue tie slung around your neck, pick a green/purple/orange patterned pocket square (contrast). If you’re wearing a purple-and-blue striped tie, go with a solid purple pocket square against a blue suit (understated hue). If there are more than two colors in your tie, aim for the third or fourth dominant.

Don’t worry about crazy folds. Choose either “presidential” (think Don Draper from TV’s “Mad Men”) or “puffed” (a la Gordon Gekko from “Wall Street”). Please, keep your pocket from looking like a silky volcanic eruption. That’ll kill your look quicker than actual lava.

Simple. Clean. Details.

Treat your style like cooking: Follow a recipe but add one twist to make it your own. A pocket square is akin to a red wine reduction to chefs—basic, but it sure does heighten beef.

Style does not have to be expensive or intimidating; it just has to be yours. Take it from a TV guy who has to be camera-ready every day—details matter. Send your closet conundrums to TheBurg, and I’ll do my best to unlock your potential.

Since this inaugural column debuts around Valentine’s Day, pick a pocket square to wear on your date out. That little piece of fabric will be noticed and invite a reason for your date to touch your chest, which could lead to other invitations. If you’re single, start wearing a pocket square with your jackets and experience the difference yourself. And, if you hear a peer or an older gentleman call you “sir”—that’s the sign of respect you deserve.

This column is sponsored by and the clothes were provided by Top Shelf Menswear, 300 Bridge St., New Cumberland, 717-770-2080.

Screenshot 2015-01-28 00.01.44Our Sharp Press Man, Dave Marcheskie, is a reporter for abc27 News. If you’d like to ask Dave a question, please email it to [email protected]. He may use it in a future column.

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