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Wines of the Hills: Look to France’s “cotes” regions for wines of high quality, good price.

Screenshot 2014-10-30 14.45.13At this time of year, with the holidays approaching, we find ourselves in our favorite Wine and Spirits store perusing the selections.

Occasionally, the word “cotes” shows up on bottles of French wine. This word is translated into the English “sides.” It refers to the sides of a valley or mountain, more accurately called slopes. There are many slopes in France, some for skiing, but many others, fortunately for us, planted with grapes.

One of the more popular regions is known as Cotes du Rhone Villages. This area is situated in the southern Rhone Valley just north of where it empties into the Mediterranean Sea. It is composed of 17 villages, each producing wines of unique character and style. The major grapes are Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre. These red wines are very food friendly with a combination of fruit, spice and tannin, enabling them to match with rustic fare and red meat, as well as bold cheeses. The palate is one of dark berries and pepper with a smoothness and long finish. It makes for a great cold weather quaff in addition to a good barbeque drink. These wines are also reasonable in price, so check them out.

Another good wine region is Cotes du Roussillon Villages. This one encompasses a total of 28 villages making a plethora of wines in different styles. In seeking out the reds, one will find that Syrah and Grenache still dominate, but Mourvedre is replaced by its more rustic cousin, Carignan. The slopes here are the Pyrenees, which form the border between France and Spain. The wines themselves seem to have picked up some of the Catalan character with great depth of fruit and a slight sweetness. These are real bargains and should be sought out by anyone looking for a great everyday beverage, as well as a special bottle.

Cotes du Ventoux is another area for good wines. Mount Ventoux is an extinct volcano in southern France, located just east of the Rhone River. The grapes here are the same as for the Rhone region, but the slopes change things. The wines are lighter than the other two “cotes,” but are very good with their own personalities.

Cotes du Gascogne is a region caught between the Pyrenees and the Central Massif. What I like most here are the white wines that contain Colombard, a grape that is not well known but makes a great, fruity, spicy quaff. It shows best when blended with Ugni Blanc (Trebbiano). Its acidity makes it a perfect match with many types of lighter foods, so keep it in mind for next summer. This is also where the brandy Armagnac is distilled, a fiery liquor known as the “velvet flame” for its heat and smoothness.

All these regions of “slopes” make wines that are too often overlooked. They also match great with a turkey dinner. So, seek them out.

Keep sipping, Steve

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