Perhaps a barbeque grill is not the first thing you think of when preparing an Italian meal. But grilling is, in fact, a very important part of Italian country cooking.
In the Tuscan and Umbrian hills, the smell of smoke from wood ovens at the little trattorias permeates the crisp night air. These al fresco ovens cook thin crust pizzas, grilled meats, vegetables, fish and spiedini, the Italian version of shish kabob.
Italian grilling is not complicated. There are no heavy, sweet sauces to coat meat and chicken. Pizzas are topped with the simplest ingredients—some crushed plum tomatoes, slices of mozzarella cheese, fresh basil leaves. Fresh herbs and a little virgin olive oil are sufficient to make a superb marinade. And lemons are more than a garnish. They might be layered with swordfish or lamb cubes on a skewer where the grilling gives them a soft, gentle taste. Meats are often placed over piney rosemary branches, a favorite herb in the Italian countryside, where it can grow into a woody shrub of enormous size. Seasoning is good sea salt and freshly ground pepper.
Although they are being marketed these days to home cooks for their outdoor kitchens, I will likely never have a wood-fired oven. So, I continue the struggle with my gas grill, which—as I wrote in a column last year—is certainly to blame for my occasionally overcooked food. But I have been trying new things this summer like grilling broccoli and garlic and zucchini slices with fresh oregano in a large, perforated basket I got from Williams and Sonoma. And an All-Clad meat thermometer, a present from our younger son, has really helped to gauge the right time to take meat off the grill (most of the time).
Grilling chicken remains a problem for me, especially boneless chicken breasts, which I am adept at turning into a consistency best described as leather-like. But I have found a wonderful chicken recipe from the well-known chef and restaurant owner, Mario Batali. His cookbook, “Mario Batali’s Italian Grill,”is a treasure for the home griller.
My favorite recipe from the collection is for “Chicken Thighs with Garlicky Crumbs.” It calls for boneless chicken thighs and a touch of anchovy that lends a hard-to-define spiciness. Even I have trouble drying these out! I served them for a summer party, and only one guest asked, “Where’s the white meat?” Trust me, you won’t miss it.
Mario Batali’s Garlicky Chicken Thighs
- In a food processor, combine 4 oil-packed anchovies drained and chopped, 2 cups fresh breadcrumbs, 12 cloves smashed garlic, ½ cup chopped parsley and ½ cup olive oil. Process until blended.
- Season 2½ pounds boneless chicken thighs with salt and toss them in a large bowl with the breadcrumb mixture. It’s OK to use your hands! Cover and refrigerate for 15 minutes.
- Pre-heat your grill and then grill over moderate heat for 10 minutes per side. Test for doneness with a meat thermometer. Place on a platter garnished with some fresh herbs, parsley or watercress.
This dish is so easy and perfect for summer. It goes well with sliced tomatoes drizzled with olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Chef Batali pairs the chicken with sugar snap peas, but any green summer vegetable or salad will do.
This chicken is moist with a very distinct flavor. I cooked the thighs over some non-stick foil placed directly on the grill grates, a good way to salvage all the delicious crumbs.
So, with this recipe, I might have foiled my fire-spewing Weber gas grill. No octopus for me, but I may even try Mario’s grilled mussels before the summer ends.
