My sweet mother, Rose, was definitely the “soup lady.” No matter the season, there was broth or “brodo,” as she called it, in the refrigerator.
Like so many Italian immigrants before her, she considered soup true sustenance— nourishment if you were not feeling well, warmth on a cold winter day and healthy nutrition from its many vegetables and greens.
My father’s family loved soup, too. They never started a holiday dinner without a bowl of homemade chicken soup. Sometimes, it contained asparagus (usually at Easter) or escarole during the winter months.
The “classic” soups of Italy are fairly well known.
Stracciatella, which in Italian means “little rags,” is rich chicken broth with shreds of cooked egg. My mother made this often.
Pappa al pomodoro is tomato-and-bread soup made with either fresh tomatoes in the summer or roasted Roma tomatoes in the winter. This soup bears no resemblance to the canned tomato soup we are all accustomed to eating with our grilled cheese sandwiches.
Pasta fagioli, or pasta and beans, is what many of us call “pasta fazool.” It is thick, rich and hearty. Cooks in different regions of Italy argue over which bean is best to use for this cold weather favorite.
And then there’s tortellini in brodo—cheese-filled purses of pasta dough in simple, clear broth, either chicken or beef. My husband cherishes every last drop of this soup when I make it.
But one could argue that the best known and perhaps most loved Italian soup is minestrone, a thick vegetable soup that has been described as a “soup for all seasons.” It differs from other Italian soups in that it must contain beans, a “thickening vegetable” such as potato, and either rice or pasta.
Like so many other Italian dishes, there are likely as many versions of minestrone as there are cooks. Minestrone is considered Italian peasant food (cucina povera), usually made with seasonal vegetables and often whatever the cook might have in the fridge. Along with good, crusty bread, it is a meal in itself.
My mother’s version of this soup was made from homemade beef broth, which she made with a variety of bones and a huge piece of beef chuck. But minestrone can be made with ham, chicken or a simple vegetable broth and is delicious that way, too. Homemade broth is best, but there are many brands of good, lower-sodium broths on the grocery shelves today. My mother’s soup seemed to get better each day after it was made as the soup thickened and the flavors melded.
The recipe that follows is from Liguria, a coastal region of northwestern Italy. It is a good one. I have changed some of the ingredients to shorten preparation time; you can substitute vegetables as well, according to your own taste.
Ligurian Minestrone Soup
Ingredients
- 2 cups of broth (chicken, beef, vegetable or ham)
- 1 onion, chopped (I use sweet onions rather than “cooking onions.”)
- 2 carrots, peeled and chopped
- 1 celery stalk, chopped
- ¼ cup olive oil
- 1 bunch Swiss chard chopped (you can also use spinach or kale), tough stems removed and chopped
- 3 potatoes, peeled and chopped
- 1½ cups peeled and diced squash such as butternut (You can also substitute green beans cut into 1-inch lengths or chopped green cabbage.)
- 2 cups canned beans rinsed and drained (cannellini, borlotti or navy)
- Piece of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese rind (optional but a wonderful touch)
- Salt and pepper to taste
- ¼ pound small pasta such as ditalini, elbow macaroni, tubetti or even spaghetti broken into small lengths
- Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese for sprinkling on top before serving
Directions
- In a large saucepan over medium heat, cook the onion, carrots and celery in the olive oil until golden about 10 minutes. Stir frequently.
- Stir in the Swiss chard or spinach, potatoes (or green beans or cabbage), tomatoes, beans and cheese rind (if using).
- Add enough broth to barely cover the vegetables. Bring to a simmer and then reduce the heat to low.
- Add the salt and pepper and cook uncovered until the soup is thickened and the vegetables are soft, about 1½ hours. Add extra broth if the soup becomes too thick.
- Add the pasta and continue to cook, stirring frequently, until the pasta is tender, 10 to 15 minutes.
- When ready to serve, sprinkle grated cheese on top.
It’s fun to play with this soup. Add the vegetables you like. My mother used corn and peas. Some recipes call for chopped mushrooms. If you have made homemade broth, you can add some shredded chicken, beef or ham. You can even cut the cooked cheese rind into pieces and eat it with your soup.
Italian soup may not cure your case of wintertime flu. But it certainly will warm you up and make you feel better. Don’t forget the Italian bread for dipping!
