Growing up, I knew Christmas was near by several subtle, yet unmistakable, signs at our house.
Plump and fragrant tangerines appeared for dessert. There were savory blanched almonds that my mother tossed in olive oil and salt, roasted in the oven until golden brown and served as a snack or, for some, with a pre-dinner cocktail.
My father dragged out his bottle of Harvey’s Bristol Cream, a sweet, dark and rich sherry that we drank even before dinner. (That bottle lasted for years.) And then there were chestnuts, a must-have treat for every Christmas holiday. My mother roasted them in the oven for my father, who relished them along with a little sambuca or amaretto for dessert. Even without an “open fire,” the smell of chestnuts roasting at home is just as lovely as on the streets of New York City.
Chestnuts have strong ties to Italy where, in centuries past, they were a staple food of peasants. Chestnut harvesting, which was backbreaking work, also provided a livelihood as the nuts were packaged for exporting to other countries. Chestnut groves still cover the hillsides of Tuscany, and little villages celebrate chestnut harvest every fall. They are no longer considered peasant food, rather a coveted ingredient in many Italian dishes and baked goods.
Preparing chestnuts can be rather time-consuming and hard on the hands. But, after trying chestnuts sold in vacuum packs or in jars, I have decided that the taste doesn’t even come close to buying the fresh nuts when they are in season. No special equipment is needed, although Williams-Sonoma once sold a chestnut-roasting pan for use over a wood fire. I can’t imagine many were sold.
Be picky when you are buying fresh chestnuts. They should be a beautiful, glossy brown, very round and plump. Pass on those that seem to have a crackly space between the outer hard skin and the nut itself, and avoid those that have a dull or dusty appearance.
To roast chestnuts, place the nuts on a flat surface and, with a small, sharp paring knife, cut an “X” into one side. The goal is to cut through the tough outer skin, but not pierce the “fruit.” There is a little disagreement as to which side of the nut should be cut. My mother always cut the flat side, although some recipes advise the rounded side. I think both should work.
Roasting Chestnuts
- There is no set amount of chestnuts to cook at one time. Buy what you think you can eat and that will fit on your rimmed baking sheet. A metal pan is best.
- Spread the chestnuts out in a single layer on your baking sheet. There is no need to grease the pan first.
- Sprinkle the nuts lightly with water before placing in the oven.
- Roast in a pre-heated, 400-degree oven for 15 to 20 minutes, shaking the pan a few times while roasting.
- After 15 or 20 minutes, the chestnuts will turn a darker brown and the cuts in the shell will begin to peel back.
- When the chestnuts are cool enough to handle, peel away both the brown outer shell and the thinner inner membrane.
- Eat and enjoy.
My family used to eat chestnuts while they were still warm, and their wonderful aroma still permeated the kitchen. But you can freeze them for later use or keep them for a few days in the refrigerator.
Chestnuts can be used in so many ways—tossed with Brussels sprouts or other green vegetables; in your Christmas stuffing; with pasta (especially gnocchi); and even in soup. And, somewhere out there, an Italian grocer can sell you chestnut flour for baking holiday cakes.
Wishing all TheBurg readers a wonderful holiday. Buon Natale!
Chestnuts with Grappa
Here is a traditional Italian way to serve roasted chestnuts at Christmastime. The recipe calls for grappa, a strong and clear after-dinner brandy much like the Greek ouzo. But you could also use regular brandy, amaretto or perhaps even Grand Marnier.
- Roast 1 pound of chestnuts (see main story).
- Toss the cooked chestnuts with:
o 4 tablespoons grappa
o 4 tablespoons sugar
o A tiny pinch of salt
o 1 teaspoon grated orange zest.
- Serve in a little dessert dish.
Serve the chestnuts with additional spirits on the side and some vanilla gelato. What could be better than a Tuscan treat at Christmastime?
