Greater Harrisburg's Community Magazine

Hot Weather, Cool Cuisine: A chilled fish dish can be a refreshing break from the grill.

Screenshot 2015-06-27 12.24.28So July is here, and we are well into summer. Perhaps, like me, you begin to tire a little of grilled food that often tastes the same. By July, I think I have teriyakied just about everything.

Over the years, I have collected recipes for hot summer days that can be served chilled or at room temperature and provide a nice alternative to grilled foods. Some of my favorites are:

  • A wonderfully spicy, chilled gazpacho topped with sour cream and shreds of sweet basil
  • Uncooked pasta sauces, like chopped summer tomatoes with garlic, basil and shredded mozzarella cheese served over a favorite pasta
  • White meat chicken salad with sweet red grapes or bing cherries
  • Nicoise salad made with fresh tuna, hard cooked eggs, tomato wedges, olives and fresh green beans

All of these dishes can be made early in the morning, placed in the fridge and pulled out for dinner without any fuss. All that is needed is a plate of sliced melon and some cool white wine to complete the meal.

A long time ago, I found a recipe from the famed New York restaurant, The Four Seasons. This landmark establishment is known for its elegant cuisine made with seasonal ingredients. This was a spectacular summertime dish with chilled, poached salmon and scallops, marinated cucumbers and an herbal green mayonnaise. I’ve simplified it a bit, but it still makes a beautiful dinner for special friends and a nice change from your “go-to” steaks on the grill.

Poached Salmon with Green Mayonnaise

Ingredients

Marinated Cucumbers

  • Two regular, homegrown cucumbers
  • 1/2 cup of your favorite white wine and olive oil vinaigrette
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Poached Salmon

  • 4 fresh salmon steaks or thick center-cut filets
  • 1 cup white wine plus 1 cup vegetable broth or water
  • 1 dried bay leaf and a tablespoon of whole black peppercorns
  • 1 lemon, sliced
  • A small bunch of fresh dill, tied with kitchen twine

Green Mayonnaise

  • 1 cup of good mayonnaise (I have taken a recent liking to Duke’s Light)
  • 1/2 cup of mixed fresh herbs (I like parsley, chives and dill)

Garnish

  • 1 head of Belgian endive leaves separated

Directions

Prepare the cucumbers:

  • Peel the cucumbers, and slice them as thinly as you can.
  • Place the cucumber slices in a medium bowl, add salt and pepper to taste, toss with about a quarter cup of white wine and olive oil vinaigrette. Place in the fridge to cool.

Poach the salmon:

  • In the bottom of a large, deep skillet or sauté pan, lay the lemon slices and top them with the salmon steaks or filets.
  • Pour in the wine/broth mixture to come at least halfway up the salmon.
  • Add the peppercorns, bay leaf and dill bouquet and bring the mixture to a boil.
  • Lower the heat to medium-low, cover and simmer gently for about 15 minutes.
  • When the salmon is almost cooked, remove it with a slotted spatula and place on a plate or platter. Cool for a few minutes, then cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate.

Make the herb mayonnaise:

  • Finely chop the herbs you have chosen and add to the mayonnaise in a small bowl.
  • Mix well, cover and chill with the other items in the fridge.

All the components of this dish are best made several hours ahead of serving so they are thoroughly chilled.

Assembly

This is the fun part.

Gently separate the leaves of the Belgian endive, and lay them around the edges of a round plate or platter (think sunflower). Arrange the chilled salmon on the endive leaves, leaving the center area free. With a slotted spoon, place the marinated cucumbers in a mound in the center of the dish. Then put a small spoonful of herbed mayonnaise on each salmon steak or filet, serving the remainder on the side. If you have any fresh dill left over, stick a few sprigs here and there.

Your poached salmon can also be served for brunch along with minted ice tea or sparkling Pellegrino with lemon. For dinner, a cold Pinot Grigio or Prosecco would be nice. Sliced, sugared strawberries are a perfect accompaniment for dessert.

The original Four Seasons recipe included poached scallops in the dish, and that is something you could try for a special occasion. If you like capers, they can add a savory touch to the herbed mayonnaise or just be sprinkled on top of the platter. Make the dish with steamed shrimp if you don’t like salmon.

Enjoy the rest of summer and your “holiday” from grill-ville!

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