Our friends, Cindy and Ron Pisani, former Italian residents, and seasoned Italian travelers, finally convinced us to accompany them to their favorite region of Italy, Umbria. This was in May and despite my usual insistence on being a homebody and thinking that now is “not the right time,” once there I was mesmerized and charmed by the quiet beauty of Italy’s “Green Heart.”
Before the trip, I knew nothing about Umbria and rather had harbored a dream of one day seeing Tuscany with its rolling hills, red-roofed villas, olive groves, vineyards, and towering cypress trees beloved and painted by artists the world over. I know now that Umbria is Tuscany’s next-door neighbor and that they share many similarities, except–have you ever heard anyone say they were going to Umbria?
We stayed at an old farmhouse called Villa Rosy (Was this my mother’s doing?) The owner of the villa, Paolo, came every day to tend his small grove of olive and fruit trees. At Villa Rosy, spectacular roses grow to the size of lunch plates in the Umbrian soil. One day, I asked Paolo what he fed them. He shrugged, looked puzzled, and said “nothing.” Rosemary plants, because of Umbria’s mild winters, become large bushes, sturdy enough to form hedges along the property. Sweet jasmine covers a pergola Paolo built around a large slab of stone that serves as a table for dining. It was perfect for wine-sipping at the end of the day. Aside from church bells in the distance, and a few barking dogs at night, there was nothing but stillness and peace at Villa Rosy.
The region is also a land of saints. In the nearby hill town of Assisi the memory of St. Francis is honored all along the cobble-stoned streets. In Sienna, with its magical shops selling sweet cakes known as panforte and bottle after bottle of limoncello, we were surrounded by images of its own great saint, Catherine of Sienna. And the towns and villages have churches on every corner, an ever-present reminder of the influence of the Roman Church throughout Italy.
Umbrian food was a surprise to me. Its cuisine relies heavily on meats of the region like baby lamb and veal which are often roasted over an open fire. Sweet cream sauces replace tomato, and Bolognese sauce is made with boar not beef. The Umbrians love their cheeses: Caprese Salad (tomatoes and mozzarella cheese) is on every restaurant menu, and many local artisan cheeses are offered as antipasti. Mushrooms and truffles, gathered in the Umbrian woods, find their way into countless pasta dishes. There is little fresh fish, but an infinite variety of cured meats, sausages, prosciutto, salami and mortadela are used in countless dishes, even for breakfast. Roasted potatoes are scented with Rosemary and accompany the grilled meats.
I want to share with you a recipe that would be right at home in Umbria. I have made it many times having found it in an issue of Cucina Italiano, one of my favorite Italian recipe collections. It is called Penne con salsiccia e zafferano or Penne with Sausage and Saffron. It may not be “summery” but I think you will love this pasta anytime.
- Combine 1 tablespoon water and a pinch of saffron in a small bowl and set aside. Prepare a large pot of salted boiling water for the pasta.
- In a large non-stick skillet, heat 2 tablespoons olive oil over medium high heat. Add 1 cup of thinly sliced sweet onion and a tablespoon fresh thyme leaves and cook for 4 minutes. Stir the mixture frequently. (You could also use Rosemary)
- To the onion mixture, add ¾ pound crumbled sweet Italian sausage and stir with a wooden spoon until cooked, about 6 minutes.
- Add 1 cup of heavy cream to the skillet, along with the saffron mixture and a pinch of salt. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from the heat and cover to keep warm.
- Cook the penne according to package directions. Drain the pasta when done and place in a large bowl.
- Combine the pasta with the cream and sausage mixture, mix well and serve,
I am very grateful to have had the opportunity to visit the green hills of Umbria. While I was there, I remembered with fondness my father talking of its beauty having returned from one of his many art trips to Italy. On one occasion, he discovered an old monastery and thought what a wonderful place it would be for an art school. That idea met an untimely end at the hand of my mother. But I know now how he must have felt. The warmth of the people, the wonderful food, the rolling fields of poppies and lentil flowers, and magical light of central Italy just embrace your heart.
