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Gifts in a Glass: Malbec and Torrentes prove that Argentine wines have arrived.

Screenshot 2015-02-22 11.31.41In the world of wine, Argentina has risen to become one of the greatest success stories of recent years.

In just two decades, this South American nation has gone from being an afterthought to the fifth largest producer of wine by volume. From French varietals to unique blends, Argentina has a quaff for every palate. Two grapes define modern Argentinean wine: the big, red Malbec and the white Torrontés.

Malbec is a French grape that migrated to South America in the mid-1800s before the phylloxera epidemic made a shambles of the Gallic vineyards. Originally a blending grape in the Bordeaux region, it has become a totally different fruit in the dry, high altitude vineyards of Argentina.

Here, the volcanic soil and average cultivation height of 2,700 feet have concentrated the flavors of wine made from this spicy, red grape. Since there are no phylloxera aphids in this region, the vines are grown on their own roots. This quality arguably gives the wine more of the flavor it originally had before grafting became a necessary evil in most of Europe.

In the glass, Malbec is a dense, concentrated wine. Dark and deeply colored, it can be fruity and spicy or heavy and tannic with herbal highlights. I try to find wines that are balanced so that the plum and berry flavors are not dominated by the drying tannins of the thick-skinned grape. For food-pairing, keep in mind that this is the wine that quenches the thirst of the guests at the gaucho cookout known as the asado, a multi-course feast dominated by red meat and red wine.

For every ying, there is a yang. The most famous Argentine white wine is made from a unique grape known as Torrontés.

Torrontés was originally thought to have come from the Galicia region of Spain, but this is not the case. Genetically, it is a cross between Criollas, the mission grape of California, and Muscat di Alexandria. In ancient times, the Greeks took the latter to Sicily, where today it makes an amazing white wine called Zibibbo. The Spanish had both grapes in Mendoza, where it appears that hybridization took place, giving us the modern grape.

Torrontés is a spicy, fruity quaff that matches well with lighter foods, but also has enough character to stand up to spicy Asian dishes. The floral scents of the wine in the glass invariably knock me for a loop. The amazing aroma of cut flowers hovers above the light, gold liquid, enticing your first sip. It’s a truly unique experience in a bottle that deserves a place at Easter dinner.

Argentina has given us two wines that have become its signature quaffs. Both are unique and deserve our attention. Try one as soon as you can.

Keep sipping, Steve

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