Armen Vartan is a man who is serious about fresh food, and it’s obvious when he enthusiastically describes the dishes he serves at Fraiche, his farm-to-table BYOB located in Camp Hill.
Photo by Anela Bence-Selkowitz
He celebrates his purveyors with a floor-to-ceiling chalkboard prominently displayed on the back wall of the restaurant, where customers can review a list of his suppliers, from Highbourne Deer Farms in Dallastown for succulent venison to Linden Dale Farm in Ronks for high-quality, artisan cheeses.
“I use farmers who practice methods that yield tastier, healthier produce,” said Vartan, adding that those who make it to the list practice only the best farming methods.
The 25-year-old has an up-close-and-personal relationship with his purveyors, their families, farming methods, dedication and farming philosophy, and he’s happy to share that with customers for the asking. You might even say the man micro-manages his micro-greens, but customers wouldn’t have it any other way.
Neena Agarwal, a Fraiche regular said, “I love the fact that I can eat real food at Fraiche. None of it is processed or canned, and he uses ingredients from a direct source. It’s obvious he is very passionate about his food.”
Slow-Food Harrisburg founder Curtis Vreeland said that the farm-to-table movement embraced by Vartan is gaining in popularity.
“It’s a way to shorten the connection between producers/growers and consumers and emphasizes seasonality, local availability and freshness,” he said. “For consumers, the benefits mean more nutritious and better quality ingredients, since the crops are picked close to peak maturity, rather than picked for shelf life.”
Vartan makes it a point to adhere to that concept and takes a hands-on approach, traveling four days a week to select his food and taking virtually no short cuts. “We make everything from scratch: from breads to butter, ice cream, sorbet, pasta and mayo,” he said.
The menu changes as different food comes into season, and Vartan and Chef Doug Shenk, previously of The Cellar restaurant in Camp Hill, collaborate on dishes.
“He’s a fan of ethnic food,” said Vartan, adding that there are always choices on the menu for vegetarians.
Curried dahl, a dish comprised of mixed lentil stew with radishes, carrots, mushrooms and scallions, spring garlic and goat yogurt, is the current seasonal selection. Meat-eaters can choose from venison steak, chicken and biscuits, grass-fed rib eye and pork tenderloin. For light eaters, Vartan offers a series of small plates, which include hummus, jerk trout fillets and chevre gnocchi, to name a few. Desserts range from creme brulee, to chocolate racine cake and also vary seasonally.
Décor is both simple and elegant, with butcher-block tables, topped with living herbs like oregano and basil planted in clear mason jars. Even this simple touch is carefully crafted to integrate masterfully into part of a larger concept.
“I’m going for the Japanese ‘wabi sabi’ aesthetic, which loosely translates to ‘beauty in things imperfect’ – none of it pronounced, but all of it there to be noticed. We try to bring this type of nuance into all aspects of the restaurant – somewhat of a counter to the pronounced uniformity that one usually experiences,” he said.
Works of area artists adorn the walls and are rotated out on a monthly basis.
Vartan’s goal is to leave his customers with a good feeling.
“Being in touch with how we feel not only during, but after we eat, is part of the experience at Fraiche,” he said. “I don’t only buy local – I strive for perfection at every end, finding people who absolutely love what they’re growing so that I can ensure that complete care was taken at every level with everything that appears on that menu.”
He sums it up simply with a phrase printed on all of his menus:
“It’s not only wholesome, it’s awesome.”
Fraiche
2138 Market St., Camp Hill
Monday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Tuesday – Friday, 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Saturday, 5 p.m. to 9 p.m.
(717) 737-4380; https://www.fraichetodef.com/
