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Flaky, Healthy: Rosemary urges you to try the “poor man’s lobster”

My mother-in-law was not a good cook. We certainly had a lot of interesting Sunday night dinners.

However, she did teach me a few things, like cooking roast duck with fruit to soak up the fat and that there was a fish out there that “tastes like lobster.” Regarding the fish, she was referring to monkfish, and she said it was known as “poor man’s lobster.”

I used to make monkfish and occasionally see it on restaurant menus. But lately, I have been seeing it more frequently for sale at Kepler’s, my favorite fish vendor at the West Shore Farmers Market. I decided I needed to re-visit this under-appreciated member of the “mild white fish” family.

As I often do, I began with a little research. Monkfish is found in the deep waters around the United Kingdom but also in the northeast Atlantic Ocean. It is not a pretty fish. In fact, you might be alarmed at its “large-mouth” appearance. But the flesh of the monkfish is white and sweet and is seriously loaded with nutrients that benefit the heart, thyroid and immune system. It is also low in fat and calories.

The monkfish fillet is the tail of the fish and is very easy to cook. I often write about many foods that are versatile, and monkfish is truly one of those. It can be baked, broiled, grilled or pan seared. It can be made with just a few ingredients or simmered into more complex stews and braises.

The monkfish fillet is covered in a thin, sometimes slightly purplish membrane that should be removed before cooking. If left on, it may shrink, and cause the filet to curl. If you are buying it from a fresh fish vendor, they might do this for you.

The recipe that follows is so easy—brown first, then finish in the oven, a technique that many professional chefs use, even for steaks. The butter flavor shines in this simple preparation, so you can judge for yourself if it really does taste like lobster.

 

Roasted Monkfish

Ingredients

  • 2 monkfish filets, about 8-10 ounces each
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • Sea salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1 lemon, rind grated and then juiced
  • 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • Handful of flat-leaf Italian parsley, chopped

 

Directions

  • Remove the thin membrane covering the fish.
  • Dry the fish filets very well with paper towels.
  • Rub salt and pepper onto the surface of the filets (amounts to taste).
  • Heat the olive oil in a large, ovenproof skillet.
  • Brown the filets in the oil for about 2 minutes on each side to get a golden crust.
  • Place the browned filets in a pre-heated, 425-degree oven for about 8 minutes.
  • While the fish roasts, grate the lemon rind and juice the lemon.
  • Melt the 2 tablespoons unsalted butter in a small saucepan. As the butter begins to melt and bubble, add the lemon rind and juice. Stir the mixture and then add the chopped parsley. If you like, add a few other chopped herbs like chives or thyme.
  • Remove the monkfish from the oven. You will know it is done when the fish appears “flaky” and springs back when pressed.
  • Pour the herb butter over the fish and serve it directly from the skillet or place on a platter garnished with extra lemon slices and/or herb sprigs.

At the Baer household, we are trying to incorporate more fresh fish into our diet. We are lucky in this area to have several options for purchasing fresh fish. However, I find that I tend to gravitate to the same choices: sole, flounder, salmon and, during grilling season, swordfish. But I decided it was time to branch out, and monkfish is such a good choice.

The recipe above, prepared with lemon, butter and herbs, is a simple one. But I think I will try an Asian version with soy sauce, ginger and garlic. And how about Dijon mustard and honey? Or monkfish shish-kabobs with pineapple and brown sugar?

Give it a try and decide. Does monkfish taste like lobster?

 

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