The next time you walk down the grocery store aisle that houses the familiar jarred spaghetti sauces, take a closer look. Lined up next to the Ragu, Newman’s Own, Emeril’s, Rao and Mario Batali might be jars of various Italian sauces that bear the name of “Patsy’s.” There’s marinara, puttanesca, basil, fra diablo, vodka, Amatriciana and pizzaiola, and they are relative newcomers to the shelves.
Most of you who have read this column over the years know that I value making food from scratch, especially pasta sauces. But a visit to a very famous New York City restaurant has convinced me that maybe (well, once in a while) pasta sauce from a jar may not be too bad.
Patsy’s is an iconic New York restaurant located in a bustling section of West 56th Street just off Broadway. Opened in 1944 by Italian immigrants Pasquale (Patsy) and Concetta Scognamillo, Patsy’s has been a comfortable haven and source of wonderful Italian food for generations of native New Yorkers, visitors to the Big Apple, sports figures, Broadway actors and showbiz celebrities. Patsy’s “Wall of Fame,” located at the front of the restaurant, is a collection of photos of the many celebrities that have visited and cherished Patsy’s over the years. The legendary crooner, Frank Sinatra, had his own table there and is still considered their most beloved patron.
I had the opportunity to eat at Patsy’s for a second time during an April visit to New York. The thought I had when entering the restaurant again was that this is the way an Italian restaurant should be: vibrant with the sound of happy voices, waiters conversing in Italian, beautiful dishes being hoisted high on their way from kitchen to table and, best of all, the delicious aroma of sautéed garlic, tomatoes and olive oil.
We happened to be with a couple who know the current owner and head chef of Patsy’s, Joe Scognamillo. Joe is the grandson of the original Patsy who, with his brother, aunt, uncle, cousin, mother and father and, hopefully in the future, his two sons, oversees every aspect of the business. Joe is a happy and friendly man who made us feel at home right away. One can feel the love of family in this place.
It isn’t often I feel I could order almost everything on a restaurant menu—but such was the case at Patsy’s.
Seafood dishes abound: Chilean sea bass with eggplant and olives, striped bass with horseradish crust, prosciutto wrapped monkfish, salmon with herbs and shrimp with cognac and Dijon mustard. My husband relished his stuffed calamari, an Apulian dish that is often hard to find on restaurant menus. I had swordfish Arreganata, a sweet and succulent dish made with Sal’s seasoned breadcrumbs, which really make a difference in the recipe. Sal makes his breadcrumbs from leftover Italian bread grated in a food processor. But he says you can also use packaged breadcrumbs (about 2 cups) and add the following ingredients:
- 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese
- ¼ cup minced parsley
- Pinch of oregano
- I minced garlic clove
- 3 tablespoons olive oil
- Salt and pepper to taste
Leftover breadcrumbs can be stored in the refrigerator for several days and can be used with chicken as well. Sal uses them on delicious baked clams that resemble clams casino. And I think they would be wonderful sprinkled on cooked vegetables like green beans or cauliflower. Whoever thought that one could get excited over breadcrumbs!
Now for the swordfish:
Patsy’s Swordfish Arreganata
- Pre-heat the oven to 450 degrees.
- Place 4 swordfish steaks in a shallow baking dish and season them with salt and pepper.
- Dot the steaks with 1 tablespoon of butter cut into pieces, and then sprinkle with ¼ cup fresh lemon juice and paprika.
- Add about ¼ cup water to the bottom of the baking dish and roast the fish for 15 to 17 minutes, being careful not to overcook.
- Remove the fish from the oven and turn on the broiler.
- Spread 2 tablespoons of the seasoned bread crumbs over each piece of fish and drizzle with olive oil.
- Broil for 2 or 3 minutes until the crumbs are lightly browned.
Serve the fish with asparagus or broccoli or a fresh tomato salad and a crisp, cold Pinot Grigio.
When our dinner at Patsy’s was nearing its end, Sal presented each couple at the table with an autographed copy of “Patsy’s Cookbook” and a jar of Patsy’s sauce. I will always remember his kind smile and his wish for “happy cooking.”
The real reason I am writing about Patsy’s this month is not about swordfish or tomato sauce. It’s to share with you again what Italian cooking means to so many: love of food, love of life, hospitality and, most importantly, sharing all of this with family and friends.
Here’s to Sal. Buon appetito!
