Greater Harrisburg's Community Magazine

Craft Cuisine: Christian DeLutis leads a kitchen perfectly paired with Troegs’ beer artistry.

On Good Friday this past March, Troegs Independent Brewing in Hershey was bustling as families and friends embraced the beginning of spring.

The malty aroma of brewing beer filled the echoey tasting room and the modestly named “Snack Bar.” Despite its location in an old warehouse, Troegs has a warm and welcoming atmosphere, a quality in which head chef Christian DeLutis takes pride.

“I feel like the room’s inviting,” he said. “It’s comfortable. It’s a place where you can sprawl out a little, even if it is busy.”

DeLutis, who is celebrating his fourth year at Troegs, grew up in Hummelstown in a big Italian family. Homemade food and wine were priorities and dining out was not.

“I didn’t have a good scope of what good food was outside of my grandmother’s cooking,” he said. “But I understood that food was important to bringing people together and happiness in life.”

 

Food Around Beer

DeLutis didn’t enter the profession right out of high school, as so many chefs do. He went to college in Pittsburgh with a goal of becoming an English teacher.

Meanwhile, he cooked for friends and worked in a restaurant, where he discovered his true passion for food. When a friend mentioned he should go to culinary school, DeLutis didn’t realize the option even existed.

He eventually enrolled at the Pennsylvania Culinary Institute in Pittsburgh and, after finishing school, took an internship at the five-star Harbor Court Hotel in Baltimore, where he was immersed in every facet of the restaurant industry. The hotel was large and semi-corporate but still privately owned, a setting that appealed to him. Over the course of five years there, he “went from putting a tomato at 12 o’clock on a salad for 5,000 plates in a wedding to being executive chef.”

DeLutis stayed in the Baltimore-Washington area for a little more than a decade, working in fine dining and learning about wine and craft cocktails. He came back to central PA for what he thought would be a pit stop on the way to another big city, taking a job at the now-closed Brew 22 in West Hanover Township.

“That was my first real exposure to craft beer,” he said.

In the process, he became familiar with Troegs, which, at the time, was outgrowing its Paxton Street location in Harrisburg and planning a move to Hershey.

During a phone interview for a position in Philadelphia, he received another call from Delaware restaurateur Matt Haley, whom the Troegner brothers had hired to help develop a new dining concept for the Hershey brewery, which had opened with scant food options.

Sixteen interviews with Haley and four years later, DeLutis can say he knows a bit more about craft beer now.

“I look at our beers as ingredients,” he said. “I try to create food around it.”

While he and his team occasionally cook with beer, the main goal is to pair the brews with complementary and contrasting foods. For example, a hoppy IPA would go well with a ripe peach, a combination that was on DeLutis’s mind lately as he planned dishes for the spring menu.

“I don’t use ‘farm-to-table’ very often or preach that, but we just do that,” he said. “I kind of create these pantries for each season that we always refer back to. And not only are they ingredients-based, but they might be feelings-based or nostalgia-based.”

 

Core Values

DeLutis prioritizes food that is made from scratch and is seasonal, although popular dishes like the brown butter popcorn, soft pretzel and five tons of French fries per week have become year-round staples.

“I think the rest of our menu is kind of always being sketched about and things erased and things penciled in and—just always open for discussion really,” he said.

DeLutis’s dishes also fit the time constraints of the Snack Bar’s fast-casual style, but don’t limit quality or creativity. That was an adjustment from his slower-paced fine dining background. He shifted his thinking to paper boats instead of ceramic plates, fewer garnishes and letting the ingredients speak for themselves, leaving room, of course, for the beer to shine.

DeLutis also feeds off of the enthusiasm of customers, as well as the greater philosophy at Troegs.

“What we grow towards really is cultivated by what people have to say about who we are,” he said. “I think it’s important, but we also really have our core values.”

DeLutis, who doubles as the company’s food and beverage director, said he values communication among everyone, from his five sous chefs to the in-house baker and butcher to the marketing department—and, naturally, to Chris and John Troegner themselves. He has his hands in many aspects of the Troegs operation—he designed the kitchen with special ovens to accommodate the extra-tall bread loaves.

Weekdays are spent doing behind-the-scenes office work, but, when Friday night comes, he’s on the floor, whether that means in the kitchen, interacting with guests, cleaning tables or pouring beer—wherever he’s needed.

An open kitchen and a facility that is designed for roaming and observing remind customers that Troegs doesn’t take itself too seriously. DeLutis wants the experience to feel like one where everyone is invited, from the family looking for a casual meal to the beer snob whose brain he can pick.

“Cooking is truly when I’m the happiest,” he said. “I try to be here a lot because I’m happy to be here.”

Troegs Independent Brewing is located at 200 E. Hersheypark Dr., Hershey. For more information, visit www.troegs.com.

 

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