Photo by Waxman Photography.
Jeffrey Utzman is on a roll.
The seasoned chef’s booming voice echoes throughout the restaurant as he bounces from one subject to another in rapid succession while discussing the concept for the Capital Gastropub, the newest restaurant in downtown Harrisburg.
Utzman’s passion is evident as he rhapsodizes on everything from the importance of filtered water to why he hews to using stainless steel and ceramic cookware and the meaning of the word “gastropub.”
“You could call it a hybrid, I guess,” he said, explaining the term that originated in Great Britain. “A gastropub is not quite a bar and not quite a restaurant. It’s a place where the atmosphere is very welcoming and attracts foodies and non-foodies alike.”
Experts tend to agree. Hillary Dixler, in her article titled, “Gastropubs, from London Trend to American Phenomenon,” wrote:
“For a working definition of the contemporary gastropub, Eater [magazine] turned to restaurant editor Bill Addison, who put it succinctly: ‘I define a gastropub as a casual establishment, usually boisterous, with a near-equal emphasis on quality eating and drinking.’”
To achieve that high quality, Utzman collaborated with co-owner Erik Sokhadze to create a brunch, lunch, dinner and cocktail menu. For Utzman, who has years of cooking experience under his belt, getting free rein to express his creativity in menu development was a lot of fun.
“The coolest thing for us was being able to play around with stuff,” he said, referring to his partnership with Sokhadze, who previously worked at the famous Russian Tea Room in New York.
Manhattan Elegance
Guests can start their day out with brunch options ranging from omelets to huevos rancheros to French toast. Lunch selections include salads, sandwiches and more substantial options like filet mignon or stroganoff. Those pressed for time can get in and out quickly with the “express lunch,” which changes daily.
Dinner options include steak, burgers, fish and chips, seafood, pork chops and Utzman’s delectable crab cakes, to name just a few. I sampled the famous Utzman crab cakes when he worked at 1794 The Whiskey Rebellion in Carlisle. I know of which I speak when I describe them as delicious.
“Our mission is to be as eco-friendly as possible and that includes using local farms and using sustainable seafood, as well,” said Utzman.
For budget-conscious diners, Utzman created a special, bar-only menu called, “Belly Up to the Bar.” For $5, patrons can choose from dishes like cheese and crackers, fish and chips, soft pretzels and shoestring fries.
“When I was a young child, the adults would say, ‘Belly up to the bar, boy,’ and I created the menu with that in mind,” he said, with a chuckle. “We believe in old-school prices available to those who dare sit at the bar.”
For those who prefer more refinement, Utzman offers his version of “high tea.” Meant to be shared, the selection of finger sandwiches, scones and petit fours is served on an elegant, three-tiered, silver serving tray, alongside a ceramic pot of organic tea and a side of whipped cream.
“Everything we do is centered on the goal of bringing Manhattan elegance to Harrisburg, even down to the details of the decor,” said Utzman.
A Renaissance
The spacious restaurant possesses a masculine, upscale, clubby vibe and seats about 120. Oversized booths done in black leather are ensconced in dark wood, which complements the brick-paneled walls and contemporary iron lighting fixtures. Sokhadze, with partners Anatoly Gutman and Vladimir Vladimirov, spent about $400,000 to renovate the establishment that formerly housed Ceoltas Irish Pub, providing diners with an attractive and comfortable atmosphere conducive to socializing.
No gastropub would be complete without a fine selection of adult libations. The Capital Gastropub has that covered with a selection of craft beer, cider, wines by the glass or bottle, and native and foreign whiskies. Cocktails, priced at $10, include the popular Moscow mule, a rich chocotini served with vanilla vodka, Godiva chocolate and Kahlua, and a Hemingway daiquiri containing aged rum, fresh grapefruit and lime.
Those who prefer to party beneath the stars can take the stairs or the elevator to the rooftop garden, where they can drink and dine al fresco.
Both Utzman and Sokhadze are looking forward to what the future brings as more people learn about the establishment.
Sokhadze said he fell in love with Harrisburg on his very first visit. When he and his partners discovered that the building was for sale, they felt they were at the right place, at the right time.
“This city has potential and is ripe for a renaissance,” he said. “We’re glad to be a part of it.”
The Capital Gastropub is located at 310 N. 2nd Street, Harrisburg. To learn more, call 717-200-3155 or visit www.capitalgastropub.com or their Facebook page.
