Greater Harrisburg's Community Magazine

The Blancs of the Loire: France sends two gifts for white wine lovers.

Screenshot 2015-10-30 12.34.24France is a beautiful country imbued with amazing art and architecture, as well as a fascinating, variable natural landscape that defines its many regions.

The Loire River Valley is one of the loveliest areas of France. A designated UNESCO World Heritage site, the valley is known for its 300-plus chateaux, including arguably the most famous, Chambord, the royal house replete with fairy-tale towers and turrets. Of course, this valley is also prime wine country, where two of the world’s great white wines, Sauvignon Blanc and Chenin Blanc, originated.

Sauvignon Blanc is a grape that has spread to almost every wine region on Earth, though it reaches its peak in two villages facing each other across the Upper Loire, Sancerre and Pouilly-sur-Loire. This “wild white” is a savory quaff of medium acidity and crisp flavors. Lime, green apples and white peaches are found on the palate with fresh herbs and gooseberries showing in the nose.

Outside of its home country, Sauvignon Blanc has been embraced by many nations, especially New Zealand, where it is wildly popular and exported to the United States by a number of producers. Is it better than the French? For me, not so much. The kiwi blancs have a grassiness that I have difficulty appreciating. Sauvignon from Chile has more of the European character that I readily enjoy. This is a perfect match for many types of fish and briny cheeses, as well as a thirst-quenching beverage in warmer weather. Try it from any region to taste the uniqueness while the wine is young—it doesn’t age well.

Chenin Blanc is a grape that has always been associated with the Loire Valley. According to “Wine Grapes” by Jancis Robinson, the variety was first mentioned in the 15th century, taking its name from Montchenin, a monastery in the town of Touraine. A varietal that can be made into different styles, it is a very adaptable fruit whether dry (sec), semi-dry (demi-sec) or sweet (moelleux). Because it has high acidity, Chenin can be fermented into a good sparkling wine.

The best examples hail from the French town of Vouvray, although there are now more acres devoted to vineyards in South Africa, where it is called “Steen.” The wine has a soft fruitiness and mouth feel that is unique in such a light quaff. Citrus, honey and spice are the predominant flavors, while orange blossom is in the nose.

Chenin Blanc is a food-friendly wine that matches well with sweet and sour flavors such as southeast Asian dishes, as well as sushi or traditional French cuisine with cream sauces. I was surprised how well this wine matched cranberry sauce with everyone’s favorite fowl, the Thanksgiving turkey. I also like to drink it without food, as its pleasant fruity flavors need nothing to bring out its personality. So, this month, you can perform a wonderful test. Open a bottle before your holiday meal and finish it up after the food hits the table, taking note of how you prefer to drink the wine.

Keep sipping, Steve.

 

November Wine recommendations

Philippe Foreau Vouvray Sec 2012

Code 47726 | Price: $38.99

“It’s absolutely delicious,” says French luxury wine buyer Jennifer Brown. Foreau is a benchmark producer in Vouvray, a region known for its amazing Chenin Blanc. Brown adds, “This is a dry Chenin with exquisite balance. Perfect for turkey day.”

 

Domaine Jacky Marteau Touraine Sauvignon Blanc 2014

Code 47790 | Price $11.99

You can’t get much more bang for your buck than with this beautiful Sauvignon Blanc from Touraine. This estate-made French white is perfect with chicken and seafood. And for lighter fare, try it with fresh asparagus and goat cheese.

 

Château de Moncontour Vouvray Demi-Sec 2014

Code 47120 | Price $15.99

Looking for something a little sweeter? Try this Chenin Blanc. The Wine Enthusiast gives this little gem 87 points and says, “The touch of sweetness cuts down on the acidity and emphasizes the yellow fruits and crisp apple-skin texture.” Although most whites are best when fresh, this one will get better with age. Although it is great with poultry and fish, for something a little different, try it after with a piece of homemade apple pie.

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