The mercury is rising. The air conditioner is straining just to keep you from melting. City living is great, but, come summer, the combination of pavement and brick can turn Harrisburg into a glorified pizza oven.
Thankfully, centuries of human ingenuity have developed a number of ways to beat the heat. My personal favorite is (surprise, surprise) the aptly named “cold one.” And all of us here in Harrisburg are lucky enough to be just a short drive away from some wonderful producers of said beverages. So, if you find yourself thirsty and need to make a quick escape, here are four breweries worth the trip.
The Establishment
The central Pennsylvania craft beer scene begins with Tröegs Brewing Company, now located on Hershey Park Drive in Hershey. While founded in Harrisburg, expansion forced the brothers Trogner to find new digs, and, while I was sad to see them go, the new facility is definitely an upgrade.
Self-guided tours are always available via a glass hallway that passes through the brewery and connects the tasting room with the gift shop. However, the real treat is a guided tasting tour. For $5, you get beer tastings, a souvenir glass, and an in-depth exploration of the process of professional beer-making, along with what makes this critically acclaimed craft brewery special. Just make sure to book in advance since each tour is limited to 10 people, and they tend to fill up quickly, especially during the summer travel season.
But, even if you decide to pop over on a whim (perhaps as a reward for taking your kids on one of the roller coasters next door), the tasting room alone is worth the visit. Channeling a cafeteria aesthetic, Tröegs’ “snack bar” is anything but, with a wide menu of locally sourced and delicious foods that definitely satisfy as a complete meal. The French fries cooked in hop oil are a beer lover’s treat. And, of course, all of Tröegs’ award-winning beers are on tap (as long as they’re in season) along with the “Scratch Series,” small-batch, experimental brews that are only available at the brewery. And, if you’re looking to jump on the latest craft beer bandwagon, make sure to try one of the new sour beers.
The Underdog
Liquid Hero Brewery, located just across the street from Santander Stadium in York, has only been around for a couple of years. Like so many new craft breweries, Liquid Hero started when three guys went from being homebrew hobbyists to professional brewers.
Their current brew works are noticeably smaller than Tröegs, but with a smaller operation comes greater access. When I arrived, I was immediately greeted by one of the co-owners, Christian Quinlivan, who proceeded to pour me the first in a long line of samples and took me on a personal tour. Obviously, when you introduce yourself as a writer who wants to do a story on a person’s business, you get treated pretty well. But I definitely got the sense that Christian was giving me the standard treatment. He introduced me to many of the regulars by name, in addition to his baby daughter and wife.
Christian and his partners hand-fabricated much of the equipment in the brew works, located in a former train depot, and they approach their business with a heavy dose of creativity. Instead of shelling out for a full bottling line, they use a portable canner that arrives as needed in order to package their beers for distribution. Until recently, their beers were fermented in a climate-controlled room, powered by a standard window air conditioning unit. And since they don’t have a kitchen on site, they have an agreement with a local restaurant, allowing visitors to order food for delivery (a pizza arrived during my stay).
But don’t let these creative solutions fool you; their beers are definitely professional grade. As much as it pains me as a writer, their Irregardless IPA (I don’t know if their use of this often uttered non-word is meant to be tongue-in-cheek or not) is phenomenal. And as good as it is out of a can, I noticed that the pour I had at the brewery was even better than the six-pack I took home with me. So, it is definitely worth a trip to the source, plus you can combine a visit with a minor league baseball game for the perfect low-cost getaway.
The Upstarts
The first of two newcomers that I visited was The Brewery at Hershey. Expanding on the success of the Vineyard at Hershey, the brewery is located, somewhat confusingly, in Middletown, among the picturesque rolling farmland of rural Dauphin County.
The tasting room includes a gorgeous back deck that provides a scenic view of the nearby lush countryside, including a Mediterranean-style vista of the vineyard itself. Of all the breweries I visited, this one left me the most relaxed. I’m a very social person, so it is rare that I prefer to sit alone and quietly sip amidst my own thoughts, but I spent the first part of my visit doing exactly that.
Eventually, I headed over to the brew works to see if I could poke my head in. I was greeted by L. Paul Vezzetti, who is actually the head winemaker. But, conveniently, winemaking and brewing are done in close proximity. Due to the convoluted laws governing the production of alcohol, there can be no commingling of the two divisions, but they are located on either side of the same building. And, being a small operation, Vezzetti knew his way around the brew works, as well. As I toured, I sipped their tasty flagship IPA, Hip Hops Hooray, while sampling small tastes of other special experiments currently still in process.
The Brewery at Hershey is perfect if you are traveling with a (gasp!) non-beer drinker. While I don’t normally recommend such traveling partners, they can order wine while you taste the beer. Just keep in mind that the brewery’s tasting room is only open on weekends from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Snitz Creek Brewery in downtown Lebanon is the newest addition to the halo of breweries surrounding our fine capital city. Having opened in January of this year, Snitz Creek has already been embraced by the thirsty town that it calls home. The brewery gets its name from the owner’s love of fishing, with beers named after the outdoors, fishing poles serving as tap handles, and a combination hop flower/fishing lure logo adorning the pint glasses.
Like Liquid Hero, when I arrived, I was greeted enthusiastically, and it wasn’t long before the brewer, Josh Schucker, came over to introduce himself. I quickly ordered an Opening Day IPA and followed him into the brew works located in the back of the building. And, again, like my experience in York, Schucker offered me an informal, impromptu tour, ensuring me that, as long as someone is around and available, anyone can be guided through the small brewery.
I sampled a number of the beers. The brewery offers an impressive variety sure to satisfy a wide range of tastes. The American Blonde was admittedly unadventurous, but is a tasty option for those who are yet to develop my personal love of hops. A recently released Opera Fudge Stout has that dark, chocolaty balance that makes for a perfect dessert beer, featuring locally made chocolate from Wertz Candies. And the Apple-Weiss Wheat is an excellent option for those who like a little fruit in their beer. Plus the brewery has a full menu, making Snitz Creek an excellent dinner date option.
Currently, the beers are only available on-site, so bring a growler if you want to have any at home. But, while Schucker couldn’t give me any details, he indicated that Snitz Creek will be available in more area bars soon.
Brewpubs Worth the Trip
As more places offer their own quaffs, the craft beer universe has come to be divided between breweries and brewpubs. Granted, the distinction can get muddied (Tröegs: brewery or brewpub? Discuss amongst yourselves). But, in general, the beer is the prime attraction of a brewery, while, in a brewpub, the food and overall restaurant experience steal at least some of the spotlight.
So, with deep appreciation for both business models, here are some of my favorite brewpubs within an easy drive of Harrisburg.
Pizza Boy Brewing Company at Al’s of Hampden
Nothing goes together like pizza and beer. This increasingly adventurous brewer is making a name for himself with exciting new beers that he isn’t afraid to stack next to some of the beer world’s heavyweights on his exhaustive draught list.
Market Cross Pub
Market Cross in Carlisle is the closest thing you’ll find to a true English pub experience this side of the pond. It holds a special place in my heart as the site of my 21st birthday and where I first came to appreciate craft beer. The pub offers a variety of excellent, in-house, English-style beers.
Bube’s Brewery
This historic brewery, located in Mount Joy, isn’t afraid to capitalize on its long history. It offers Mystery Dinners within the spooky confines of the 19th-century establishment and has even been featured on SyFy’s “Ghosthunters.” But don’t let the spectral ambience keep you away from this gritty gem of tasty craft beer and simple, delicious food.
Selin’s Grove Brewing Co.
This rather unknown gem is serving up some really special beers that are definitely worth the trip up Route 15. Call ahead to confirm that particular beers are available as they are having trouble keeping up with demand. There’s a rumor—keep it quiet—that some non-beer-drinkers love Selin’s Grove for the locally sourced cuisine, which includes an ever-changing selection of weekly specials.
Where to Go
The Brewery at Hershey
598 Schoolhouse Rd., Middletown
www.vineyardathershey.com/the-brewery
Bube’s Brewery
102 N. Market St., Mount Joy
www.bubesbrewery.com
Liquid Hero Brewery
50 E. North St., York
www.liquidhero.com
Market Cross Pub
113 N. Hanover St., Carlisle
www.marketcrosspub.com
Pizza Boy Brewing Co./Al’s of Hampden
2240 Millennium Way, Enola
www.alsofhampden.com
Selin’s Grove Brewing Co.
121 N. Market St., Selinsgrove
www.selinsgrovebrewing.com
Snitz Creek Brewery
7 N. 9th St., Lebanon
www.snitzcreekbrewery.com
Tröegs Brewing Company
200 E. Hershey Park Dr., Hershey
www.troegs.com
