When I was young (long ago), I decided I didn’t like anchovies.
Now, I grew up with a father who was an absolutely devoted “small fish lover.” As an Italian immigrant who grew up on the Adriatic Sea coast, he relished all of his native seafood from clams, calamari and mussels to smelts, sardines and, of course, anchovies. To me, the thought of anchovies on pizza (especially our homemade pizza) was not acceptable. I was convinced they were definitely salty, possibly fishy, and I wanted no part of them.
But as the years have gone by and I have learned more about classic Italian cooking, I now know that anchovies play an important role in many recipes by providing a punch of flavor that is not at all fishy but unique. I use Worcestershire sauce in many dishes like summer marinades, meatloaf and crab cakes. Surprisingly, anchovies are an important ingredient in that popular condiment. And what would Caesar salad be without that sharp, pungent taste of the humble little anchovy?
Anchovies are sold in small oval tins, like sardines, or in small clear jars. Sometimes, you can find them wrapped around capers, and all are packed in either salt or olive oil. White anchovies are considered a delicacy and can sometimes be found in specialty food stores. And then there is anchovy paste. It comes in a tube, and you can find it next to the tomato paste in your grocery store. I consider it a magic ingredient as it keeps a long time in the fridge and melts easily in so many pan sauces for pasta (½ teaspoon of anchovy paste equals 1 whole anchovy).
The recipe that follows provides a burst of flavors: tomatoes, basil, anchovies, pine nuts and raisins, reflecting the Middle Eastern influence on the cooking from the beautiful island of Sicily. It is easy to prepare but does require three separate pots on the stove. You can cook the broccoli in the boiling water you are using for the pasta. Or you can steam the broccoli in your microwave. But it is everything you need for dinner in one dish, perhaps ending the meal with a little fresh fruit.
Pasta with Broccoli
Ingredients
- 1 head of broccoli, cut into florets, large stems discarded
- ¼ cup olive oil
- 1 medium onion, thinly sliced
- 2 cups crushed tomatoes
- Freshly ground pepper
- 1 garlic clove, peeled and crushed
- 6 anchovies drained or 3 teaspoons of anchovy paste
- 5 tablespoons raisins soaked in warm water for 15 minutes, then drained
- 4 tablespoons pine nuts
- 12 ounces pasta of your choice
- ¼ cup chopped fresh basil
- ¾ cup grated Pecorino cheese
Directions
- Bring a pot of salted water to a boil and cook the broccoli florets until crisp tender but still bright green. When done, remove from the pot with a slotted spoon and set aside. Save the water for cooking the pasta.
- Heat half the olive oil in a heavy skillet, add the onion and sauté gently until golden in color. Add the tomatoes, salt and pepper to taste, and simmer over low heat for about 30 minutes.
- In a small saucepan or skillet, heat the remaining olive oil. Saute the garlic until golden but do not allow to burn. Add the anchovies or anchovy paste and mash with a wooden spoon until broken down.
- Add the garlic/anchovy mixture to the tomato sauce along with the drained raisins, broccoli and pine nuts. Cook gently for another 5 minutes, stirring frequently.
- Bring the salted water back to a boil and cook the pasta until al dente. Drain and pour into a large serving bowl.
- Pour the tomato sauce over the pasta and add the chopped basil and Pecorino cheese. Toss well and serve immediately.
This is a wonderful dish for a cold January night. It uses ingredients that are easily found in the dead of winter and is definitely a one-dish meal. And if you are new to cooking with anchovies, see if you can detect that subtle richness they provide to what might be an ordinary pasta dish. You might be on your way to being an anchovy lover!
If you like what we do, please support our work. Become a Friend of TheBurg!
