I know Harrisburg isn’t Italy.
But every time we drive down and around city streets on summer evenings, I see scores of people dining outside at our many pubs and bistros. Everywhere you look, large and small tables line sidewalks, often in tight spaces or corralled behind fencing and barricades to allow walkers to pass by. And I am always reminded of the small towns of Umbria and Sicily where almost all the trattorias offer al fresco dining.
Harrisburg’s outdoor dining scene seems to lend a sense of vitality and fun to our little city, especially on a beautiful day. From busy 2nd Street with old favorites like Stocks, The Red Door, Café Fresco and the Hilton Courtyard to Bricco’s cozy spot at 3rd and Chestnut, diners enjoy happy hour cocktails, appetizers and dinner. Newcomer, Federal Taphouse, has gotten into the act and added outside tables to its bustling venue. And even tiny Alvaro’s, quietly serving wonderful pasta on Friday and Saturday nights, has placed a few wrought iron tables on their Green Street corner. At Carley’s on Locust Street, the entire front wall opens to the sidewalk, and a piano player croons to evening patrons. Home 231 boasts a backyard dining space canopied with lights where a strawberry Prosecco cocktail tastes sublime.
Al fresco dining is great at home, too. I have a tiny, screened porch at the back of my house, and, this year, I splurged on a table that actually seats more than two people comfortably. There is no wood oven scenting the night air, no jasmine covered arbor and no silvery olive trees in the backyard. Our wine comes from the state store and not from the vineyard over the next rolling hill. But it is a place where I start the day with coffee, end it with a glass of wine and eat meals whenever I can.
The recipes that follow make for wonderful end-of-summer al fresco dinners. Both dishes originate from Florence, or Firenze, the golden jewel of Tuscany. Both epitomize the best of summer foods: simply grilled beef and sun-ripened vegetables in a unique salad. Bistecca Fiorentina (or steak Florentine) is special to Tuscans, who eat beef often. The steak, enough to serve two, must be a large T-bone cut at least an inch or inch-and-a-half thick with a large tenderloin. The salad, called Panzanella, makes perfect use of leftover Italian bread. With a glass of chilled white wine and maybe some sliced sweet peaches, it’s all you need for a perfect dinner.
Steak Florentine and Panzanella Salad
For the steak:
- In a small bowl, mix a few tablespoons of olive oil, a handful of chopped fresh herbs (use whatever you like such as rosemary, chives, oregano or parsley) and a tablespoon or two of minced garlic. Set aside.
- With the grill on high heat, sear a large T-bone or Porterhouse steak, cut about 1½-inches thick and weighing about 1¾ pounds. (Order ahead from your favorite butcher.) Cook to desired doneness but know that, in Florence, the steak is served darkly seared on the outside and rare inside. Place the steak on a platter to rest for a few minutes and then top with the garlic and herb mixture.
- Place the steak on a cutting board, garnish with Rosemary sprigs and serve.
For the panzanella (tomato bread salad)
- Take a several-day-old Italian baguette and cut it into large cubes. Sprinkle the bread with water until it is thoroughly moistened and let sit for 15 minutes. Drain the bread and squeeze out as much water as possible.
- Cut 3 ripe, red tomatoes into chunks and place in a second bowl along with a cubed and peeled cucumber and a diced medium red onion.
- Add the drained bread and a handful of torn fresh basil leaves.
- Drizzle good virgin olive oil over the mixture to moisten it, add salt and pepper to taste and a little minced garlic if you like.
- Add several tablespoons of red wine vinegar and toss the salad again.
- Serve at room temperature along with the steak.
This recipe is best made with the freshest and ripest tomatoes you can find, as well as homegrown, summer cucumbers. It’s also very flexible. You can add chopped celery or black olives or even anchovies. And, if you add some chopped tuna, it can be a summer lunch.
So head out to your porch or patio with your steak and salad, place a vase of sunflowers on the table and pour a cold white wine. Enjoy the sights and sounds of August and your own Tuscan dinner.
And don’t forget to try Harrisburg’s outdoor eating venues too. The time for al fresco dining will be over far too soon.
