Scene from Mt. Gretna. Photo courtesy of Jana MacGinnes
“Have Art” travels 30 miles down the road from Harrisburg. When the turn is made onto Rt. 117 S, you are entering the coolest place on Earth. Cool as in the drop of temperature, cool as in the atmosphere, cool in an esoteric sort of way. Drink it all in, for the time you will spend in this very special place is magical.
Just ask the locals. They have been there for generations. And so are the towering trees. If there were a welcome banner, it would read, “Year of the Arts” in the Lebanon Valley. And Mt. Gretna is its jewel. The destination is normally a quiet family place nestled in the woods. That is, until the curtain gets drawn back. This month, the area will be a symphony of sights and sounds. The signpost up ahead: “Mt. Gretna, Pennsylvania’s Playground.”
American Idyll: Mt. Gretna
As the dog days of summer begin, the perfect antidote is to “escape to the country.” In a matter of hours when August starts and its legendary heat and humidity converge, you may want to plan a getaway to a place where you feel like a tall drink could provide all you need to be cool, calm and collected. Pack your bags and head to a shady spot off the beaten path. Mt. Gretna, a historical resort nestled in Lebanon County, beckons. This rural idyll, part village, part hamlet, comes alive on Memorial Day and has been a draw to summer visitors since the late 19th century, when the Chautauqua Campmeetings first took place—a place of lofty ideals, lazy summer days and loads of things to do for all. With hiking and biking trails, to a match on the tennis courts, lakeside sunning and swimming on the beach or just leisurely reading on the benches that are found at every turn, the choices are endless. History plays such a vital role in the area that the Mt. Gretna Area Historical Society is an adventure unto itself.
Mt. Gretna is the vision of Samuel Coleman, area entrepreneur and businessman, who saw the potential for the area to become a summer resort for those seeking a retreat from everyday life. Chautauqua was a social and cultural movement that started in upstate New York in the 1870s and found its way to other regions in the Northeast. Starting in 1892, “Under the trees of the old Chautauqua” has been Mt. Gretna’s calling card. What started out as a summer Bible festival, originally held for 10 days, soon expanded to incorporate the entire summer season. On March 17, 1892, the Campmeeting Charter was incorporated, which still stands today. Lifelong generational friendships were forged on many of the cottage porches that continue onward. In 2012, the grounds of the Campmeeting were placed on the National Register of Historic Places. Before the initial gathering took place, 102 tiny cottages were erected, as well as a chapel designated for worship. A single cottage during the 10-day camp rented for the magnanimous sum of $8 or 80 cents per day. Campmeeting attendees lived in white canvas tents on the grounds. The Playhouse also dates to 1892, when it was built as the focal point for the Pennsylvania Chautauqua. Its success led to the growth of Gretna with a train and railroad station, hotels, restaurants and a store built all under the grand vision of Mr. Coleman. To think the Chautauqua has been in existence for well over a century is nothing short of miraculous. The Chautauqua movement that started back in the latter part of the 19th century had had its day by the 1930s with the advent of radio. Yet through it all, a literary and scientific circle came about in the Gretna branch, including a Hall of Philosophy, and many of its disciplines are still observed today.
It Takes a Village
Gretna has always been about “family,” whether the church or the group that founded the hamlet. Like many close-knit communities, Gretna is really an enclave that hands down the cottages within the context of clans and friends. That way, the bond of esprit-de-corps remains intact true to its original foundation. Change is inevitable and yet it is seemingly undetectable, which only adds to Gretna’s colloquial charm. To some degree, everyone knows everybody else, and the rules of decorum that applied in the 1950s still hold fast. An open invitation to have coffee on the wraparound porches with neighbors, lending a hand to a cause before it is needed, and just enjoying the natural beauty that surrounds the communities, add up to a trip back to yesteryear and a time when life was idealistically innocent. That is not to say that modernity hasn’t taken place as fresh ideas come to the forefront. Earl Beyer, a fixture of the Mt. Gretna Visitors Center (formerly the original post office), shared that “the community is indeed multi-generational as each new addition writes the next chapter in a familial history.” Gretna skews to the established order but welcomes newcomers like MG Mercantile, bringing a breath of fresh air to the tried and true. The newly opened outpost just celebrated its first anniversary, offering residents an eclectic array of “curated groceries and gifts,” perfect for entertaining.
A Hamlet, a Hub, a Happening
Thousands of seasonal enthusiasts enjoy the nostalgia-inducing venues and activities that make Mt. Gretna such a memorable place. The backdrop of Victorian cottages and wide range of attractions endear it in the hearts of many. As a child, I was taken every summer to this wooded glen where it seemed like time stood still. With all the trappings of what summer is all about, from seeing a play, enjoying a concert and ending the night with an ice cream sundae, truth be told, it was where I was first exposed to the arts.
The “branding” of the community is an unwritten bonus in linking all the component parts under the umbrella of “Mt. Gretna,” even though all businesses are independently owned and operated. From the lake and beach swimming facility to the Playhouse, to mini-golf, to the Tabernacle, to the roller rink, and even its own pizzeria. If you’re looking for a place to stay, there is, of course, Mt. Gretna Realty, as well as Penn Realty. For dining, a perennial favorite since 1895, The Jigger Shop is known for its light kitchen fare and legendary ice cream sundae. Just a bit up the road is a local watering hole and restaurant, the Hideaway Café. If you’re looking for dinner theater, the Timbers Playhouse and Restaurant showcases the latest from Broadway and beyond. Searching for breakfast or lunch, be sure to visit the Porch and Pantry adjacent to the parking lot. Looking for art, stop in at Le Cigale, housing linens and textiles. And speaking of art, music and its ilk, a summer concert series is held at the Playhouse, an annual event that starts Aug. 6 and is a tongue-in-cheek nod to the insect interlopers as their distinctive chatter is likened to the musicians for the annual Cicada Music Festival.
Icing on the Cake
All of these traditions lead to the main event of summer and what is regarded as one of the very best art festivals in the country. It’s fitting that the “Year of the Arts” in Lebanon Valley coincides with the 50th anniversary celebration of Mt. Gretna Outdoor Art Show.
What started out in 1974 as a grassroots, down-home art show has become a blockbuster and economic boon to the entire area. Mt. Gretna rolls out the red carpet in this massive undertaking that welcomes approximately 10,000 visitors in a two-day span. The festival showcases over 200 professional and emerging artists who enchant the grounds with their own distinctive trove of treasures. As Aug. 17 and 18 are circled on the calendar, the community spares no amount of sweat equity in preparation, with a crew of 300 volunteers behind the scenes. It is a true thing of beauty when it all comes together as Kerry Royer, festival director, dedicates this year’s golden gala as “honoring the impact this nationally ranked event has on our region.”
“The show will celebrate all the cultural, artistic, educational and performance events in our town,” she said. “As we commemorate this milestone, we will recognize how the arts have created our unique sense of place in the Lebanon Valley.”
This year’s festival heralds a “plus one” with the inaugural chapter of Mt. Gretna’s International Film Festival that will be held on Sunday, Aug. 18, from 12 to 3 p.m. at the Historic Playhouse. It will feature five-minute short films across a wide swath of categories, with cash awards handed out at the finish. The festival is dedicated to honor Michael Evan Dietzler, whose fervent wish was to start a film festival in the hometown he loved. As a note of interest, Gretna did hold a film festival in August 1978.
With such a spectacular weekend of art and film, do not be deterred by the magnitude of visitors. If it has worked like a charm for 49 years, this year should be “easy-peasy,” much like this little hamlet off the beaten path. If one can dream it, it must be in Mt. Gretna.
The Mt. Gretna Outdoor Art Show takes place Aug. 17-18. For more information, visit www.mtgretnaarts.com.
A huge debt of gratitude to Jack Bitner and his groundbreaking tribute on the rich history and lore of Mt. Gretna in his book, “Mt. Gretna—a Coleman Legacy.”
An Arcadian Hymn
I sing to thee Mt. Gretna
You of the sylvan woods and towering pines
The running streams and gurgling brooks
The treasures of the great outdoors, life unwinds
Curving paths surround and shield thy hidden nooks
I sing to thee Mt, Gretna
Found at Scion’s Summit
Untouched by time in memoriam
Thy pristine beauty lies before
And reveals Nature’s conservatorium
We sing to thee Mt. Gretna
Place the laurel wreath high for
Chautauqua’s golden hour
Traverse and span the wooded glen
Climb hill and vale and bower
We sing to thee Mt. Gretna
Your beauty boundless
Our love doth profess
Step back to halcyon days of yore
To be refreshed
Nature doth restore
~Bob MacGinnes
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