Photo by Waxman Photography.
A stately stone structure situated high on a hill just off Linglestown Road has long commanded the attention of passersby. The historic building dates back to 1798, when Godfrey Fritchey purchased land from Andrew Berryhill and began construction of the fieldstone house.
In a time when simple log-home construction was the norm, this must have been an impressive sight. Fritchey was said to have designed the house to resemble his former home in Bavaria, leaving little doubt that he was, as they say, “a man of means.” The home became known as the Fritchey Mansion, and Godfrey and his wife raised 13 children there before establishing a tavern onsite. Sanctioned in 1805 by Gov. Thomas McKean, the liquor license reads:
“Whereas Godfrei Fritchey hath been recommended to me, as a sober and fit person to keep a House of Entertainment and being requested to grant him a license for the same, I do hereby license and allow the said Godfrei to keep a Public House in the Township of Paxton Dauphin County for selling Wine, Rum, Brandy, Beer, Cyder and all other spirituous Liquors.”
Until just last year, the Fritchey property operated as the Mount Hill Tavern under the eye of Doug Neidich, CEO of Harrisburg-based GreenWorks Development. When, after seven years, Neidich decided it was time to part with the property, he went on the record stating that he hoped that it would continue to operate as a restaurant. As it turns out, his wish was granted.
The property caught the eyes of John G. Frisch, owner of Higher Information Group in Harrisburg, and well-known local chef Jason Viscount. After purchasing the establishment for $1.65 million, the real work began. The two collaborated on extensive renovations, initially announcing a February opening date. As is often the case, the work took longer than expected. By the time the restaurant opened its doors in July, customers rushed the place, and business has been brisk since.
“We’re exceeding our expectations,” said Viscount, with a smile.
Inside, several seating areas accommodate about 135 patrons or guests can make the most of the waning days of summer by dining al fresco on the large patio. A handsome, gray, imposing concrete bar situated in the middle of the action overlooks the main dining room, which is bathed in sunlight during the day from large, geometrically shaped, oversized windows. Wooden tables, sans linens, tie in with the casual “public house” atmosphere, and attractive, handcrafted, custom chandeliers that resemble tree branches hang from high ceilings to further illuminate the area. A gray rug that runs throughout wasn’t quite adequate to douse the din of the diners, so something had to be done, according to Viscount.
“We had to install a rubber sound barrier beneath the carpet,” he said.
A separate seating area features bright yellow banquettes that are illuminated by large, hanging, rust-colored open spheres containing colonial-style candles.
Viscount describes the décor as “soft industrial with a modern touch” and points out special details along the way. As we ascend the steps to a private, but open seating area, he mentions the staircase leading up to the cozy room.
“They use red and white oak and employ a technique using vinegar and rust, which reacts with the tannins in the wood to create that charcoal black color,” he said.
A Twist
Viscount said he created a menu designed to attract a range of customers.
“We try to do dishes with a bit of a twist, but would also appeal to the entire family,” he said.
Appetizers include mussels, roasted oysters, crispy Brussels sprouts and hearty selections like onion soup and French fries with short rib gravy.
Five choices of salad range from Caesar to chopped for those who prefer lighter fare. The popular Greystone salad includes pears, butter lettuce, bleu cheese and candied walnuts and is topped with a champagne vinaigrette.
Handhelds include cheeseburgers, a lean bison burger, a veggie burger and a house-made pastrami sandwich served with sour red cabbage, whole-grain mustard and “Smoked Signal” cheese from Calkins Creamery in Wayne County.
Dinner dishes run the gamut from crab cakes to pork chops, prime rib, fish, day boat scallops, duck ragu with sage pappardelle and a dish that ranks number one among customers—the braised beef short rib.
“The crab cakes and the Salisbury steak aren’t far behind,” said Viscount.
Meant to Be
Shelle Roberts of Harrisburg said she enjoys both the atmosphere and the food at the restaurant.
“The scallops are my favorite because they’re fresh and delicious,” she said. “I also enjoy the décor, which is beautiful.”
She also likes that she feels comfortable bringing her 4-year-old daughter, Evelyn, who plays with an old-fashioned Etch A Sketch with a children’s menu affixed to the back.
“It’s more fun than crayons, and it allows her to be creative,” Roberts said.
Ed Dunlap recently took his family to Greystone Public House and said everyone was pleased.
“My daughter is picky, and she was happy, plus the service was fantastic,” he said. “I don’t think there is a better restaurant in the Hershey/Harrisburg area.”
Joe Wiles from Watts Township said he has followed Viscount since he left Bricco, where he was head chef for many years, and that his favorite dish is the sage pappardelle with duck ragu.
“He brought that one over from Bricco, along with the pork chop, and I’m’ glad he did—it’s a nice alternative to steak,” said Wiles, adding that his wife Rebecca enjoys the pan-seared diver scallops, and he’s looking forward to returning for the braised short rib.
Viscount said that, while the planning and renovation have been a lot of work, it’s been satisfying because of the enthusiasm of the public. After so much time searching for space in Harrisburg, Hershey, the West Shore, Lancaster and York, he finally found the place where he was meant to be.
Fritchey would be proud.
The Greystone Public House is located at 2120 Colonial Rd., Harrisburg. To learn more, call 717-829-9952 or visit www.greystonepa.com or their Facebook page.
Author: Stephanie Kalina-Metzger
