It’s been said that Harrisburg’s Restaurant Row is playing to an older audience these days, with crowds that demand quality over quantity.
After all, the area has been a popular playground for the region’s 20-somethings for many years now. So, it only stands to reason that the 2nd Street crowd would mature.
Enter Bacco Pizzeria and Wine Bar, housed in a downtown building that has been through many incarnations over the years, including Privado, the late-night lounge with the sexy vibe.
Owner Max Randazzo now is switching gears to appeal to the discerning tastes of today’s older demographic. To do so, he’s fashioned a rustic Italian menu, along with a premium selection of wine, beer and craft cocktails.
But don’t mistake this restaurant for some retirement castle. After all, the place is named for Bacco, the Roman god of wine, a deity synonymous with joy and merrymaking.
Sicilian Inspired
If you’re driving down 2nd Street, you may miss the black awning sporting the large, cursive “B,” but that’s where the understatement ends. Large doors lead the way into the 100-year-old building, which once served as a bank.
Inside, marble walls, highlighted by ornate pilasters, give an upscale feeling to the space. Oversized windows usher in natural light, and wooden tables are placed far enough apart to give patrons plenty of room to dine and socialize. The long bar provides more seating for those interested in stopping in for a drink and, on nice days, patrons can choose to dine al fresco at six tables positioned out front.
The one-page menu featuring locally sourced products is simple, but diverse. Diners can choose from six different salads, four types of cheese, cured meats like duck prosciutto made on site, and pasta dishes like lasagna and veal spinach cannelloni. Small plates are a nod to the popular sharing trend and include bruschetta, lollipop lamb chops and roasted vegetables.
Of all the choices, pizza emerges as the standout favorite.
Randazzo’s family hails from Sicily, and years of pizza-making experience were passed down to the offspring. Diners can choose from 11 pies, which are cooked in a 700-degree, gas-fired oven.
Traditionalists will enjoy classics like the margherita, comprised of crushed tomato, olive oil, mozzarella and basil, while spice-lovers will savor the fiery flavor of the “Inferno,” which includes crushed tomato, red pepper flakes, hot soppressata, Parmesan flakes and mozzarella.
During my visit, I chose to sample the “funghi,” which was suitable for sharing and was topped with wild mushrooms, béchamel and pine nuts. I particularly enjoyed the hint of rosemary, which I was told came from an infused olive oil.
Diners who save room for dessert can choose among six sweet selections, like crème brûlée, lemon gelato and cannoli.
Drinks to Perfection
Dry or sweet? Light or full-bodied? Whatever your preference, you’ll likely find a choice that’s right for you on the page-long list of wines.
If you prefer a cocktail, beverage director Tommy Pavlovic aims to please. The mixologist takes his craft seriously, having worked for six years at a world-famous, classic cocktail bar in Los Angeles.
“I worked with the best in the industry,” said Pavlovic, whose eyes light up when he launches into the history of classic cocktails and his perfectionist approach.
“Everything we’re doing here right now dates from 1900 to 1920,” he added, presenting the pre-Prohibition cocktail list he created.
Pavlovic works diligently behind the scenes before the drinks hit the table, a point he proves when he pulls out a huge bowl filled with raw fruit strips and demerara from behind the bar. The large-grained, raw sugar, with origins in Guyana, is slowly making inroads into the United States from Europe.
Pavlovic explained that he is in the process of making an oleo-saccharum, a technique used in 19th-century bartending to infuse alcoholic beverages with a citrusy flavor.
He also informed me that ice is a “thing.” He is not one who is content to purchase his ice. He insists upon making it, taking steps to ensure crystal clarity, then carving a 40-pound block down into spheres for the cocktails he crafts.
“Surface area and core temperature dictate whether the drink will taste anything like the first sip on the last sip,” he said.
As I perused the cocktail menu, I recognized my stepfather’s favorite Manhattan. Pavlovic’s includes orange essence and an Italian cherry, which I’m betting doesn’t contain Red Dye #2 like the ones available at our local supermarket.
The classic old fashioned tops the list on the menu and in patrons’ hearts, according to Pavlovic. Other notable drinks include the sazerac, a whisky-based concoction, which some claim is one of the oldest known cocktails, and the Negroni, comprised of gin, vermouth, Campari, Gran Classico and orange essence and the house sangria, to name a few.
Pavlovic is an affable gent who will craft a drink to your liking if nothing on the menu strikes your fancy. Just don’t request anything remotely related to the flavors found in “whipped” vodka. Ever.
For beer aficionados, Pavlovic selected 13 different types of Pennsylvania beers.
“A lot of excellent beer is being made right here in PA,” he said.
Future plans are in the works to create a downstairs cocktail room as word about the restaurant spreads.
“It’s exciting to serve people who want to see things done properly, and we as a team of professionals are just aiming to be as good as we can,” said Pavlovic.
Bacco Pizzeria and Wine Bar is located at 20 N. 2nd St., Harrisburg. To learn more, call 717-234-7508 or visit www.baccopizzeriawinebar.com.
