
Pine Street Presbyterian Church
Bradley Smith stands in the historic Ephrata Cloister saal, amid the community chapel’s dark benches and peaked ceiling.
For some people today, he says, Black Friday kicks off the holidays. For others, it’s a concert of 18th-century hymns written by devout German immigrants living in a communal society.
“There’s something unique about being in a space like this, hearing 280-year-old songs, that you can’t really get in other places,” said Smith, administrator of the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission site. “You’re transported to the moment. You walk in the door, and you’re immersed in the 1700s.”
Maybe it started with Charles Dickens, but “Christmas Present” and “Christmas Past” are linked together like “figgy” and “pudding.” Even as the holidays reach a frenzy, the midstate’s historic sites and events invite guests to step into the past for getaways that teach about holiday traditions, create memories, and offer moments of reflection.
Simpler Times
Today’s downtown Ephrata is a product of the railroad’s arrival around the Civil War. Every December, Christmas at the Cloister concerts relocate downtown—metaphorically, at least—a few blocks south, to its origins of humble wooden structures built on 150 acres of rolling hills.
“If you were here 280 years ago, when we walk out that door, this is the town of Ephrata,” Smith said.
Nearer to home, in Susquehanna Township, the eventful, monthlong Christmas at Fort Hunter includes six longstanding traditions that were written into the indenture established by the foundation that ceded management of Fort Hunter Mansion and Park to Dauphin County in 1980.
Christmas at the Mansion tours, running through December and the annual Victorian Tea, are the longest-running events, introducing visitors to 19th-century gentility in a mansion decked out in elegant greenery with help from the Garden Club of Harrisburg.
About 9,000 visitors attended 2024’s events, including the Keystone Model Railroad Historical Society’s toy train exhibit that is “by far the most popular event,” said Park Manager Jessica Webster.
Nostalgia for a “simpler” time could be the attraction to history at the holidays, believes Webster, using quote marks intentionally.
“The modern world is so inundated with the lights and technology (and holiday music!) and shopping that people enjoy experiencing moments without all the modern ‘noise’ and expectations,” she said in an email. “Most modern Americans probably wouldn’t actually enjoy the lack of plumbing and electricity full time, but being able to step back in time for an hour or so can be a nice break from the modern world.”
In downtown Harrisburg, at Pine Street Presbyterian Church, the majestic sanctuary will resound, for one performance, with the globally known “Nine Lessons in Carols and Scripture.”
The Pine Street Chancel Choir is accompanied by a brass quintet, percussion and guest organist Matthew McMahan at the church’s four-manual, 83 rank, Skinner/Möller organ with 5,219 pipes.
The service’s solemnity and history convey peace, said Music at Pine Street Artistic Director Joseph Garrison. If audience members think about why they attend, the era’s uncertainties “certainly influence people once they’re here,” he said. “I think it reminds them of what may be more important than some of the things going on in the world. These things will pass, but this stands the test of time.”
Nearby, inside the Historical Society of Dauphin County’s John Harris-Simon Cameron Mansion, the annual Deck the Halls celebration entices attendees with an astonishing array of decorated cakes and cookies—historically themed in past years after such classics as “The Nutcracker” or “Around the World in 80 Days.”
Sweets bring back memories of holidays past, said HSDC Executive Director Christine Turner.
“I remember making those with my grandma,” people will say.
Learning Moments
History offers origin stories and lessons that put our times in perspective, say the keepers of Christmases past.
This year, HSDC’s Deck the Halls dessert array takes attendees on a tour of all 50 states for America 250, marking the nation’s 250th anniversary.
Each tray will be accompanied with a brief description answering the question, “Why is this a traditional cookie?” Many emerged from the cultures of immigrants or enslaved people—the shoo-fly pies of the Pennsylvania Dutch, and the benne wafers baked with sesame seeds probably brought to South Carolina by West Africans.
“You can really tell where people came from geographically and then tell that story,” Turner said.
Garrison has brought the “Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols,” with its mix of Christmas choral works and scripture readings, to Pine Street Presbyterian Church every year since 2020 (adapted then for COVID but now in real life).
The original “Nine Lessons” of 1880 lured Christmas revelers out of pubs and into church through Christmas carols—increasingly popular but, despite their religious lyrics, creatures of the secular world.
After the horrors of World War I, the dean of King’s College, Cambridge, a former Army chaplain, revised the service into the program that spread to churches worldwide.
“Born from the profound grief and turmoil of the First World War, mere weeks after its conclusion, it embodies a powerful narrative of resilience and hope,” writes Anglican Compass.
Though the song selection varies every year, the service always begins with a solo voice singing “Once in Royal David’s City.” For many listeners, that moment heralds the arrival of Christmas, said Garrison.
“I love putting that service together because it’s so rich in history,” he said. “It’s not the great antique. There’s something to talk about in the history of how quickly it spread to the world.”
Ephrata’s Christmas at the Cloister concert transports visitors to the 18th century, when the order’s celibate members and “householder” families from the surrounding community gathered for services rich with the harmonies of vocal music.
Every year, the program includes hymns composed by cloister members—male and female.
“Music historians believe that this is the first place in North America that we can document that women composed these hymns,” Smith said.
After Christmas and New Year’s Day, Ephrata Cloister’s Lantern Tours will plunge visitors into the turbulent winter of 1777. Student historians will reenact the months after the Battle of Brandywine when the cloister, with its large buildings and location near Philadelphia but out of reach of the British, served as a Continental Army hospital.
As archaeological digs have found, guests of the contemplative community brought dice and weapons, as well as disease.
“This completely disrupts their entire world,” Smith said. “They were taken over by dozens and dozens of soldiers, doctors, sick and injured patients. The cloister members were pacifists. This creates what must have been very mixed feelings for them. This is a very different group of people, but the cloister offers help.”
Made for Memories
Learning about Christmas Past enhances enjoyment of Christmas Present by illustrating “why some holiday traditions came to be,” believes Webster. Fort Hunter’s Victorian Tea is augmented by demonstrations of 19th-century holiday treats made over an open hearth and the traditional delight of clear toy candy (from George Kopp and TheBurg’s own Gina Napoli).
Fort Hunter’s Festival of Trees, cosponsored by the Harrisburg Area Garden Center, demonstrates how Christmas trees weren’t widely popular in the United States until newspapers printed a photo of Britain’s Queen Victoria and her family, including Prince Albert, surrounding a tabletop Christmas tree from his native Germany, Webster said.
At Pine Street Presbyterian, sharing sacred music steeped in centuries of history “sets the tone for the season,” Garrison said.
“It is speaking in ways that maybe the spoken word or the sermons can’t,” he said. “Music has the power to open our hearts and minds in ways that we didn’t know they could be opened.”
And while the $10 ticket for Christmas at the Cloister, sponsored by Ephrata Cloister Associates, makes it “a little bit of a fundraiser,” its meaning goes much deeper, Smith said.
“It’s safe to say that the point of the event is to bring community together and just enjoy the Christmas season as a community,” he said.
If You Go
The following events are mentioned in this story. Please check ahead before you go as some are ticketed, require reservations or have limited seating.
Christmas at the Cloister
Historic Ephrata Cloister
Dec. 8 and 9, 6:30 p.m. and 8 p.m.
www.ephratacloister.org
Christmas at Fort Hunter
Christmas at the Mansion tours, Dec. 2 to Dec. 23
Toy Train Exhibit and Festival of Trees, Nov. 29 to Dec. 21
Victorian Tea and Holiday Demonstrations, Dec. 7
www.forthunter.org/Christmas-at-fort-hunter
Festival of Nine Lessons and Carols
Pine Street Presbyterian Church
Dec. 14, 4 p.m.
www.pinestreet.org
Deck the Halls
Harris-Cameron Mansion
Dec. 4, 5 p.m.
Tours Tuesday to Friday, 1 p.m., 2 p.m. and 3 p.m.
www.dauphincountyhistory.org
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