When I was growing up, one of my father’s favorite projects every year was preparing for the Harrisburg Art Association’s Bal Masque, an event that continues to this day (and was just held last month).
One year, my father convinced the planning committee to have a Venice theme for the ball. He loved Venice. For weeks, I accompanied him to the old Penn Harris Hotel, where he painted scenery that would rival that of a Broadway musical. He and my mother even commissioned costumes to be made for the ball. They dressed as the Merchant of Venice and Portia. (Haven’t times changed?)
My father beautifully captured the misty hues of Venice in his paintings. One of his favorites, he titled “Going to the Doges,” a watercolor depicting the great palace on Venice’s Grand Canal, home to the doges, the dukes of Venice. So, this lovely Italian city rising from the water has always intrigued me.
Venetian food differs from other regions in northern Italy. Gnocchi and polenta are preferred over pasta. Risotto is a Venetian mainstay, and a rice dish with fresh peas called risi e bisi is cherished in the springtime. There is less emphasis on meat. Fresh fish and fowl dominate the cuisine, prepared simply with ingredients like green olive oil, garlic and parsley.
This month’s recipe is inspired by the light fare of Venice. It is another one of those dog-eared recipes I have saved from a very old cooking magazine. This variation calls for chicken, but, in Venice, it would just as likely be prepared with whole fish.
Baked Chicken Breasts with Scallions and Lime
- Pound 4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts to an even thickness. Dredge them in flour (Wondra is great and less heavy), and place them on a plate.
- In a large, preferably non-stick skillet, melt 4 tablespoons unsalted butter. When the butter is bubbling, sauté the chicken breasts until golden, about 4 minutes on a side. But use your judgment, as thicker breasts may take a little longer. When cooked, remove to a clean plate.
- Reduce the heat to low and add 2/3 cup minced scallions (green and white parts) and 1 minced, fresh garlic clove. Cook until soft, about 5 minutes.
- Increase the heat to high and add ½ cup dry white wine. Scrape up any browned bits in the skillet and cook until the wine has reduced to half, 2-3 minutes.
- Place half the cooked scallion mixture in a heavy, rectangular baking dish that you have buttered (no substitute for real butter here).
- Place the browned chicken breasts over the scallion mixture, season with salt and pepper, and drizzle with a tablespoon of fresh lime juice. Cover with the remaining scallion sauce.
- Sprinkle the chicken with 2 teaspoons of grated lime zest, a tablespoon of chopped fresh parsley, and a tablespoon of dry, fine bread crumbs. Dot with a tablespoon of butter cut into small pieces.
- Bake in a pre-heated, 400-degree oven for 15 minutes. Check for doneness. The chicken should still be juicy.
- Place the chicken on a platter, perhaps garnished with a little fresh watercress.
This is a wonderful, fresh dish that is great for company. I have served it many times to rave reviews. You could try making it with whole fish as they do in “The Veneto,” if that is something you do (whole fish, that is). Try serving it with white rice or rice with peas, and end your meal with another Venetian favorite, tiramisu. A chilled soave would pair well—it is the white wine of choice in Venice during the warmer months of spring and summer.
I dream of going to Venice someday. I imagine the excitement of Carnevale (the pre-Ash Wednesday celebration), the winding canals, mysterious passageways, St. Mark’s Square and what is described as the ever-changing translucent light.
And, of course, I’d make sure, as my father and mother did, to toast this great city with a bellini at Harry’s Bar.
