In recent years, Italy has emerged as perhaps the world’s most dynamic wine-producing country.
In this Mediterranean land shaped like a boot, tradition meets innovation with ancient grape varieties and new vineyard techniques that produce amazing wines. This is evident on the two largest Italian islands: Sicily and Sardinia.
Sicily is the biggest island in the Mediterranean Sea and has been a major maritime crossroads for centuries. It also has the distinction as a “bread basket” for many different cultures. A blend of grain, fruit, unique livestock and seafood create an amazing diversity of foods.
The most popular indigenous grape is Nero d’Avola, or “the black from Avola.” This grape creates a rich, dark, spicy wine that is found all over Sicily. Nature deigns that this is the only region where this fruit thrives, as attempts to grow it elsewhere have not been productive. Nero goes well with the rich meats and cheeses of the Sicilian diet and with grilled foods. The wine is great bottled singly, but has the ability to make wonderful blends, most notably with French varieties planted on the island. It’s definitely a quaff to seek.
A popular native white grape is Insolia, which makes a rich, citrusy wine with herbal highlights and a nutty aroma. It matches well with the tuna and swordfish dishes found all over the island. It’s also an important component in the making of Marsala, both sweet and dry.
One of Sicily’s great dessert wines is Zibibbo, which is made from the Moscato di Alexandria, a grape brought from Egypt by the Greeks. A white wine described as eating a golden raisin, it is hard to find but well worth the search.
Sardinia is the second largest island in the Mediterranean and, compared to much of the rest of Italy, is not overrun by tourists. That’s great for us wine-lovers, since so much of the island is dedicated to agriculture.
The most popular red grape on the island is known as Cannonau. This is the local name for the Grenache grape, famous in the Rhone Valley of France, where it is blended with Syrah and bottled from Côtes du Rhône to Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The best are bottled singly or blended with Carignano (also called Carignon), another grape with roots in southern France. It goes well with the local cuisine, which is based on lamb, cheese and a unique flatbread made locally. The ones I have tried deserve a place beside your grill and on your table.
Vermentino is the best white wine of the island and is arguably the finest white wine in all of Italy. It’s a fragrant quaff with great structure and the ability to age.
Notably, Sardinia is an international “blue zone,” where people have a longer-than-normal lifespan—and I like to think their wine consumption has something to do with that. Great wine, great food and a shot at a long life. Doesn’t get much better than that!
Keep sipping, Steve
