As a craft beer drinker (read: beer snob), the first thing I do when I belly up to a bar is check out the tap handles. I can ignore an absence of ambiance, a lackluster menu or poor song selection coming from the sound system. I cannot ignore a poor beer selection.
I’ve been to the Camp Hill’s Brewhouse Grille before, so I wasn’t worried about its draft menu, and I have always enjoyed the food and friendly atmosphere. But old habits die hard, so when I arrive to meet with one of the co-owners of the restaurant, Larry Dolan, my eyes immediately track to the tap system.
Just as I suspected, a wide variety of critically acclaimed craft brews are on display, including one of my favorites, Resin, an imperial India pale ale by Brooklyn’s Sixpoint Brewery. As I complete my inspection, Dolan emerges from the dining room and invites me to join him at a table in the back where we can have a quieter conversation.
The Brewhouse Cometh
Brewhouse Grille is not a new establishment, so we discuss origins first.
“Co-founder Norm Fromm and I opened the Brewhouse in 2005,” says Dolan. “We were craft beer enthusiasts, and there weren’t many bars serving these types of beers, so we wanted a place that had good food and good craft beer.”
The Brewhouse opened with a 12-tap system. It’s now expanded to 38 taps between two bars, serving 30 separate beers on draft. The owners feature a revolving draft list with an emphasis on seasonals and special, hard-to-find beers, although they make sure to have some “macros” on hand to keep all the customers happy.
“We keep in touch with our wholesalers,” adds Dolan. “We make sure to get in any special releases being offered.”
The Brewhouse features offerings from a number of top-notch craft breweries, such as the previously mentioned Sixpoint, Bell’s Brewery, Lagunitas Brewing Company and Great Lakes Brewing Company.
“We make an effort to highlight local breweries as well,” notes Dolan. “Obviously, we carry Tröegs. But we also have a variety of other local brewers, like Millbock [Linglestown], Springhouse [Lancaster] and Liquid Hero [York].”
But Brewhouse is about more than beer. The owners take their food seriously, too.
“We have our own smoker,” says Dolan. “Our menu features smoked chicken, ribs and pulled pork. And our house dressing includes smoked tomatoes.”
Furthermore, the Brewhouse is not light on atmosphere. Come warmer weather, customers flock to the restaurant, as the second bar can be opened up to let in the air. It also hosts special events, such as an annual breast cancer awareness party, “Brews for Boobies,” held every May. March Madness and a St. Patrick’s Day celebration are also big draws, and the Brewhouse regularly features live music; it was a participating venue in this year’s Millennium Music Conference.
Brewhouse Family
At this point, Larry calls over one of his bartenders, Amy Bentley, who has been working at the Brewhouse for nine years.
“For someone to work here for that long shows you how much this place is like a family,” says Bentley. “It’s been nice to get to know the regulars, to hear their stories and find out what’s going on with them.”
She is clearly on to something. Even though I arrived during the off-hours in the mid-afternoon, friendly patrons chat up the bartenders, who all respond to the customers by name. As we talk, she is quite comfortable sitting with her boss, yet another indication that the Brewhouse is more family than place of employment.
Having gotten a sense of what makes the Brewhouse unique, I take the opportunity to solicit specific food and beer recommendations.
“The Tuscan tuna salad is my favorite,” says Bentley. “The red onions, capers and olives add a wonderful flavor.”
As for beer, her favorite current offering is Great Lakes’ Edmund Fitzgerald, a world-class American porter.
Dolan chimes in, “I prefer the IPAs.”
As a fellow hop-head, I have to go with his recommendation. It’s then that I remember the Sixpoint Resin tap handle I saw on my way in.
Brewhouse Grille is located at 2050 State Rd., Camp Hill. For more information, visit www.brewhousegrille.com or call 717-737-0030.
