A friend of ours casually mentioned recently that it was almost time to “eat with a spoon again.” I knew what she meant.
For us “summer-only” grillers, cooking changes in the fall. It’s time to bring back stews, casseroles and soups. Pastas now meet with meats, sausages, beans and a variety of mushrooms. There may be a little container of pesto in the freezer or perhaps some roasted plum tomatoes to add to fall dishes and bring back memories of summer. But, in traditional Italian kitchens, cooking evolves with the seasons; and, for me, that is the beauty of it.
Fall in Italy is a lovely time. The intense heat of the Mediterranean sun subsides into gentle warmth. And although the fall colors aren’t quite like those of the northeastern United States, there is a golden hue that overtakes the landscape. The abundant produce of fall is still available, and the hunt for mushrooms begins.
One of my favorite cool weather pasta recipes is called “woodsman pasta.” The star of the pasta is mushrooms, and, in fact, many dishes prepared in a similar fashion are referred to as woodsman-style or boscaiola. As with so many Italian dishes, there are more variations than one can count. I make it with a tomato sauce base, although you will often see boscaiola made with cream.
A few notes before you start:
- Try different kinds of mushrooms. You don’t have to forage the Tuscan woods to find them. Our supermarkets carry many interesting varieties these days.
- This is a great way to sneak peas into your spouse’s diet. The tiny frozen ones are better than fresh.
- Tortellini is suggested for woodsman pasta. But orecchiette and rigatoni both work very well.
- Although the recipe that follows is tomato-based, you can still splash in a bit of heavy cream for added richness.
- POMI crushed tomatoes, while a little more expensive than some other brands, are very, very good. They are pure tomatoes and nothing else.
Pasta alla Boscaiola
Ingredients
- 2 cups frozen baby peas
- 5 cups coarsely chopped mushrooms
- 2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
- 3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
- 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 24 ounces good quality crushed tomatoes
- Salt and freshly ground pepper
- 1 pound pre-made tortellini or other heavy pasta like orecchiette
- Freshly grated cheese (Parmesan, Romano or Asiago)
Recipe
- Put the mushrooms, garlic and parsley in a large sauté pan with the oil and cook for 5 minutes. Allow the liquid produced by the mushrooms to evaporate.
- Add the tomatoes and simmer for about 20 minutes. The mixture should be thick and not “watery.”
- Add the petite frozen peas (no need to cook first) and salt and pepper to taste. Cook for 3 to 4 more minutes.
- While the sauce is simmering, cook the pasta until it is al dente (tender, but firm to the bite).
- Drain the pasta when cooked and add it to the sauté pan. Toss gently and cook together for a few minutes to blend all the ingredients.
- If you want more of a pink sauce, add a splash or two of heavy cream and cook a minute more.
- If you like things hot and spicy, sprinkle in some red pepper flakes.
- Serve from the skillet or place in a large pasta bowl. Top with grated cheese (I use a lot).
This pasta can stand up to a smooth, rich red wine like Nero D’ Avola. But a crisp white would be nice too, even one with a slight “fizz.”
So welcome fall. For me, it’s time to put my gas grill to sleep until next spring. I hope you enjoy pasta boscaiola on a crisp October evening.
